mcollect Posted May 28, 2012 Share Posted May 28, 2012 I just changed my center stand with a shorter one, bike was lowered. The lubricant was dry so I used waterproof grease. The problem is how to reapply the spring? Ideas. Link to comment
dirtrider Posted May 28, 2012 Share Posted May 28, 2012 Afternoon mcollect Yes, you put the spring on the stand before installing the pivot bolts then hook a ratchet strap around the rear wheel rim & center stand cross bar then use the ratchet strap to pull the stand back until the pivot bushing bolt holes line up. Now that you have the stand already on you M_I_G_H_T be able to put the spring in a vise then push & pull on the spring while stuffing washers between the coils to expand the spring enough to install. Link to comment
dduelin Posted December 24, 2019 Share Posted December 24, 2019 My method is to loosely install the left pivot bolt (or the bolt on the opposite side of the stand from the spring(s), some of my Hondas the spring is on the left side) and then the springs. Sitting or lying on the floor next to the bike you can push the stand sideways to use it as lever. Lever the other side bolt holes to line up and insert the second pivot bolt. If the springs are too strong for me to overcome by pushing on the stand (the 2007 RT is like this ) I park the bike with an immovable object several feet away from the side with the pivot bolt installed. Hook a rachet strap to the bottom foot of the stand and pull it sideways towards the immovable object. The remaining bolt holes will come into alignment and the pivot bolt easily slips in. Link to comment
The Fabricator Posted December 24, 2019 Share Posted December 24, 2019 (edited) My method is using a flat blade screw driver that I beat and ground into a scallop shape. I assume one or both spring anchors are posts. This tool only works with posts. If possible, retract the centerstand [shortening the distance between posts], install spring on one post, pass the tool shaft through the other end of the spring such that the scalloped end rests on the post, lever the spring onto the post. The spring will slide down the shaft onto the post. It will take several tries. Of course, if the spring anchors are loops or there is not access then this will not work. The other method is to loop a piece of wire loop onto one spring end, fabricating a secure hand hold, pull to stretch the spring. This is harder. Edited December 24, 2019 by The Fabricator clarity Link to comment
dirtrider Posted December 24, 2019 Share Posted December 24, 2019 1 hour ago, The Fabricator said: My method is using a flat blade screw driver that I beat and ground into a scallop shape. I assume one or both spring anchors are posts. This tool only works with posts. If possible, retract the centerstand [shortening the distance between posts], install spring on one post, pass the tool shaft through the other end of the spring such that the scalloped end rests on the post, lever the spring onto the post. The spring will slide down the shaft onto the post. It will take several tries. Of course, if the spring anchors are loops or there is not access then this will not work. The other method is to loop a piece of wire loop onto one spring end, fabricating a secure hand hold, pull to stretch the spring. Afternoon Fabricator I don't think either of your options will work on the OP's 1200 hexhead center stand as the stand uses a loop not a peg & the upper spring attachment is too far up & remote to even get an off-set brake spring installation tool on. The hexhead stand uses 2 springs (an inner & an outer) that are about impossible to pull into place by hand (no good way to pull the springs to the rear with stand up & even more difficult to pull those springs down with the stand down). I have done it before using a very strong loop of wire, then a long screwdriver through the loop, then prying the springs down using the lower crossbar on the stand as a fulcrum (it takes a lot of effort to get those springs extended enough as the wire loop keeps sliding up the screwdriver shortening the pull stroke (plus the wire loop stretches a few times so that has to be re-done). Then while holding the springs pried down it takes 2 hands to force the inner & outer springs onto & over the loop. (last one that I tried this on I actually turned the screwdriver around & used the screwdriver plastic handle end on the stand crossbar as the handle diameter held the wire loop away from the crossbar enough to almost gain enough travel to get the springs on). If this method slips you could easily lose a large piece of meat off your hand. By far the easiest way is to just use a ratchet strap to pull the stand to the rear after the springs are installed. Link to comment
dduelin Posted December 27, 2019 Share Posted December 27, 2019 On 5/28/2012 at 1:59 PM, dirtrider said: Afternoon mcollect Yes, you put the spring on the stand before installing the pivot bolts then hook a ratchet strap around the rear wheel rim & center stand cross bar then use the ratchet strap to pull the stand back until the pivot bushing bolt holes line up. Now that you have the stand already on you M_I_G_H_T be able to put the spring in a vise then push & pull on the spring while stuffing washers between the coils to expand the spring enough to install. How do you tighten a ratchet strap between the rear wheel and the cross bar? There is less than 2" clearance to the tire with the stand bolted in place. I looked at doing it like this but my 1" webbing ratchet strap needs a lot more room than that to set up. I'm not saying it can't be done just asking how to rig the ratchet strap? Link to comment
dirtrider Posted December 28, 2019 Share Posted December 28, 2019 12 hours ago, dduelin said: How do you tighten a ratchet strap between the rear wheel and the cross bar? There is less than 2" clearance to the tire with the stand bolted in place. I looked at doing it like this but my 1" webbing ratchet strap needs a lot more room than that to set up. I'm not saying it can't be done just asking how to rig the ratchet strap? Morning Dave You need to hook the strap to the rear of the rear wheel not the front. I usually clean the rear wheel & the center stand crossbar in the area of the strap attachment (don't want to grind any dirt into the paint). Then put the trans in 1st gear (to prevent rear wheel rotation). Then run the ratchet strap along the R/H side of the rear wheel just under the final drive housing with a double loop around the REAR of the rear wheel & tire (not the front). The strap hooks to the center stand cross bar in line with the springs. Depending on the size of the ratchet strap ratchet mechanism you should be able to find a sweet spot on the R/H side of the rear wheel that allows ratchet operation (personally I use a ratchet strap with a small ratchet). Link to comment
dduelin Posted December 28, 2019 Share Posted December 28, 2019 10 hours ago, dirtrider said: Morning Dave You need to hook the strap to the rear of the rear wheel not the front. I usually clean the rear wheel & the center stand crossbar in the area of the strap attachment (don't want to grind any dirt into the paint). Then put the trans in 1st gear (to prevent rear wheel rotation). Then run the ratchet strap along the R/H side of the rear wheel just under the final drive housing with a double loop around the REAR of the rear wheel & tire (not the front). The strap hooks to the center stand cross bar in line with the springs. Depending on the size of the ratchet strap ratchet mechanism you should be able to find a sweet spot on the R/H side of the rear wheel that allows ratchet operation (personally I use a ratchet strap with a small ratchet). Ok thanks. That makes sense. Link to comment
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