Jump to content
IGNORED

Rear Brake Sensitivity - early 2002 R1150RT


litigator

Recommended Posts

Change out the ABS controller. About $1500 plus labor.

 

That being said, the rear brake is the one that seems to bother people the most. By adjusting the pedal downward you may get the sense of some relief.

Link to comment

Many got used to it and didn't think it was a problem. They skipped the free "upgrade" dueing that period. Other just used their front brake leve only and never noticed it at all!

Link to comment

When I had my 2002 RT, the rear brake sensitivity never bothered me. I got used to it.

I thought of modifying it by putting a rubber block between the pedal and the rear master cylinder. I never tested it but expected that it would work like a reaction pad and dampen the action.

Link to comment

You've got your answer - $1500. I have an '02 RT manufactured in September '01, it also has E instead of 6 on the RID, so I know it's an early model. I've never been bothered by over-sensitivity of the rear brake. I always ride with a passenger, maybe that helps the system compensate. I never thought it was sensitive so I guess I got used to it. Good luck with yours.

Link to comment

The problem with "getting used to it" is that I change rides often. The sensitivity is really only a problem at slow speeds, like in parking lots. If you just touch it, and the handle bars are not perfectly straight, it's on its side.

Link to comment

Easy Fix, "GOT WRENCH" 10mm i think, may need two.

I lowered the pedal down and it made a big difference in feel. You need to disconnect the pedal from the rod arm to the master cyclinder, by removing clip/pin. adjust pedal hieght down by adjusting the stop bolt/nut. then adjust the the rod arm to make it shorter and the pin should slide in the hole and clip.

you'll love it. cool.gif

Link to comment
Easy Fix, "GOT WRENCH" 10mm i think, may need two.

 

Just one is required. Alternative: Put a spring on top of the pedal. Never seen this done but it's cheaper than $1500!

Link to comment

Yes, but remember you must also adjust the brake light actuator to compensate for the pedal's new position.

 

Be very careful that you coordinate the two adjustments so the switch actuator arm doesn't push the pedal down beyond what you changes with the master cylinder rod. Less you end up with the servos being applied a tiny bit, creating brake drag.

Link to comment

This is probably THE reason I never "upgraded" my 1100RT to an 1150. I rode an early 1150 and it killed that idea on the spot.

 

It amazes me how people can "get used to it" although I do recall having to ride my triumph with no clutch, my matchless with the throttle operated by a makeshift thumb-pull set-up and an R60 with "minimal" braking.

 

So I suppose it's possible to ride "around" any problem but it's definitely not something I'd want to get used to.

Link to comment

Yes, but remember you must also adjust the brake light actuator to compensate for the pedal's new position.

Ken there is no need to adjust brake light switch on 1150RT.

Link to comment

Ken there is no need to adjust brake light switch on 1150RT.

Perhaps I'm using the wrong terms. Item #10 in this diagram actuates the brake light switch. If you adjust the pedal position downward without also adjusting it, the brake light switch may stay closed (the switch vane down) causing the brake light to stay on.

 

49068487-M.jpg

 

Conversly, if you use it to lower the pedal postion you must shorten the rod at the rear (not shown in this diagram) to keep from causing the brakes to be partually on.

Link to comment

Believe this is correct (needing to adjust the rear brake microswitch presser-thingy). The oft-faulty memory says that I needed to do this when putting dropped pegs on the RT. The adjustments are really similar to any other motorcycle and quite obvious when you peek down there. A single 10mm wrench handles about everything. Easy to move the pedal up and down with your hand and hear the small "click" sound from the microswitch exactly where you want it with respect to pedal depression.

Link to comment

How about having the rear brake rotor lightened by having it professionally drilled out to next to nothing? Doing this on race bikes renders the effectiveness of the rear brake very limited which is what you want in racing. Look in the back of Roadracing World. Most shops only charge $75 for this service. I think this would also work on the RT.

Link to comment
Clive Liddell
How about having the rear brake rotor lightened by having it professionally drilled out to next to nothing? Doing this on race bikes renders the effectiveness of the rear brake very limited which is what you want in racing. Look in the back of Roadracing World. Most shops only charge $75 for this service. I think this would also work on the RT.

 

Area is not involved in co-efficient of friction calculations.

Link to comment
How about having the rear brake rotor lightened by having it professionally drilled out to next to nothing? Doing this on race bikes renders the effectiveness of the rear brake very limited which is what you want in racing. Look in the back of Roadracing World. Most shops only charge $75 for this service. I think this would also work on the RT.
Interesting thought, but the early '02 (and some would say all R1150RTs brake sensitivity issue is in the servo control system not the actual wheel braking system(s).
Link to comment

Ken, adjusting item #10 in the diagram is what lowers the pedal. if you unscrew it out it will lower the pedal. It is the pedal stop screw. The spring #6 will always put presure to push the pedal up to open the switch.

My discussion is on the 1150rt, Not shown in your diagram is the micro switch lever which is sandwitched between #10 screw and the bottom of the right foot plate (see attachement, item #3). It is a thin peice of metal. The switch is not connected to the rod or master cyclinder.

615780-brakeswitch.JPG.9b471a104ecef3a2fb52075e31fbafd6.JPG

Link to comment

here is another attachement showing the whole pedal.

the factory manual adjust distance "A" to a fixed value with an additional 0.2mm feel gauge inserted at arrow.

the rod #2 is adjusted with nut #1 to "take up play" .

What i was discribing is to change distance A to what suits you. I don't think 0.2mm makes much difference except that it makes sure you don't have the rear brake slightly on.

Sorry for the grammer and spelling mistakes

615824-brakepedal.JPG.266fa190f8fa822ec40cfc6b2c1d6b08.JPG

Link to comment
The problem with "getting used to it" is that I change rides often. The sensitivity is really only a problem at slow speeds, like in parking lots. If you just touch it, and the handle bars are not perfectly straight, it's on its side.
I, too, ride several bikes. Despite this, I still got used to it and there is no problem with bikes other than the BMW, or when switching back to the BMW.

 

What happens when you "get used to it", is that you have trained your foot to use the pressure that is necessary, instead of just stomping on the pedal like you were previously accustomed to doing.

 

Pat

Link to comment

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...