1200 RT maintenance question @ 14,000 mark

[midatlanticcycle]

i have a 2007 1200RT that i've religiously serviced myself since purchasing slightly used at 9 months old and 3K miles. at approx. 5K miles i checked throttle body sync and did valve adjustment but nothing other than fluid changes to engine, trans and final drive since then. bike has 13,700 miles on it now and wanted to remove bodywork and do TB synch, check valves, replace plugs. i only have owners manual and no shop manual so following questions:

1. what again is correct method for TB synch at both idle and partial throttle?

2. suggestions on preferred spark plugs? who likes what?

3. any tips for removing lower plug caps as they look tricky

any other thoughts or suggestions welcomed and as always, appreciate the board members help and expertise. thanks much.

[dirtrider]

Afternoon midatlanticcycle

 

On the spark plugs the stock NGK DCPR8EKC plugs are fairly propriety from BMW (big money). Not sure on the optional Bosch YR5LDE plugs

 

In any case your have a couple of other choices in the NGK brand that work just fine. The first is the NGK DCPR8EIX those are fine wire single electrode plugs & will work just fine. A bit closer to the production NGK plugs are the NGKDCPR8EKP, those are very similar to the stock dual electrode plugs only with a bit different (& better according to my NGK rep) electrodes. Same heat range & same thread exposure. The NGKDCPR8EKP are quite a bit cheaper than the OEM NGK DCPR8EKC as you don't need to buy through the BMW dealer.

 

Personally I like (& personally use) the NGKDCPR8EKP as they are real close to the stock plugs in design & heat range.

 

On the TB balance?--- lots of options & thoughts on how it should be done. In any case you DON'T do an IDLE TB BALANCE. In fact NEVER adjust of attempt to move the base idle screws. The idle on your 1200 hexhead is computer controlled by the fueling computer.

 

You only adjust the off-idle or above idle cross side TB balance. In fact the 1400-1800 area is the most important. In my estimation ever more important is to have BOTH TB cams lift off the base idle stops at EXACTLY the same time (the only adjustment available here is using the throttle cable adjuster right at the throttle body.

 

According to the BMW service manual BMW suggests locking the idle steppers (using BMW service computer) then noting the warm engine based idle vacuum difference then carrying that difference into the 1400-1800 RPM balance. If you have access to a GS-911 you can hold the steppers locked but I have done it both ways & have yet to see a difference in the TB balance whether or not the steppers are held. Again to me the most notable thing is HAVING THE THROTTLE CAMS LIFT OFF THE STOPS AT EXACTLY THE SAME TIME.

 

So basically just hook up your balance gauges or U tube then check the cross side balance at 1500, 2000, 3000 RPM's & if even side to side call it good. Then watch the cross side gauge reading JUST as the throttles start to open very slightly, if that is OK then you are done. From what I have seen, on the 1200 hexhead, as a rule once they are set correctly they hold their balance for many many miles.

 

On the lower coils?-- Once the coil protective covers are removed those angled lower coils pull off quite easily as you can get a good hand hold on them. Usually a little twisting while pulling will get them off. If not use a conventional spark plug wire remover in conjunction with pulling by hand.

 

Careful!!! you don't pull the coil wire connector apart so either be VERY CAREFUL when pulling on the coils or disconnect the wire harness first. It's very easy to damage the coil wire connector so be careful with removing them from the coil if you go that route.

[midatlanticcycle]

hi D.R. and thanks very much for the quick response and all the great info. you nailed it as to exactly what i needed and wanted to know to do this maintenance myself and again, thanks ever so much for the help and plug info. one more thing...all 4 sparkplugs are the same, correct? regards, john

[dirtrider]

Afternoon midatlanticcycle

 

 

Yes, all 4 plugs the same. You might need a thin walled plug socket to get both the uppers & lowers out as there isn't much clearance around the outside of the plugs. Depends on your plug socket. Some of the spark plug sockets out there have thicker walls.

 

[David13]

Yes. Some of those sockets, even if they do not seem thick, can get horribly stuck into the spark plug bore. And it may be more possible for that to happen on the lower plug.

You can as lbump how we know that.

dc

[Alfred02]

Yes. Some of those sockets, even if they do not seem thick, can get horribly stuck into the spark plug bore. And it may be more possible for that to happen on the lower plug.

You can as lbump how we know that.

dc

+1

I have had even a "thin" walled socket getting stuck on the 1200 (1150 had just the slightest touch more space).

I had to turn that socket down as well.

 

[midatlanticcycle]

thanks again one and all for the help and info and alfred/david correct on thin-wall socket. finally found a 5/8th 12-point very thin wall socket that removed the plugs. they were bosch twin ground electrode and looked pretty darn good but figured while i'm in there i'd do the replacement. valve lash dead spot on as well. thanks again.

[simskid]

Hey Dirtrider,

 

Wow, this is timely. I'm chainging out the plugs on my 09 RT. The manual scares me about the coils and says i should use the coil puller that "came with the bikes toolkit". I bought the bike used ...no puller. What is the best way to remove the coil if i dont have the puller?

 

Thanks

john

[dirtrider]

Evening John

 

No coil remover comes in the BMW basic on bike tool kit. You need to buy the very high dollar supplemental tool kit.

 

Doesn't matter--

 

On the lower coils I just GENTLY pull & slightly twist to get them off the plugs.

 

On the uppers, I don't like any coil remover as the coils POP off with great force. That means the wire harness should be unplugged first or you have a great risk or connector damage (I don't like to do that).

 

Personally I just use 2 screw drivers on the uppers (works great & real smooth). Once the plastic coil cover is removed I bend two strips of cardboard to protect the rocker cover hole edge then use one screw driver on top & one on the bottom to slowly pry the coils out. There are notches in the coil (for the coil removal tool) that the screw driver blade fits in nicely. Use the edge of the spark plug hole in the rocker cover as a fulcrum point.

 

[simskid]

D.R.

 

Many Thanks!!!

 

Good Evening.

 

John

[David13]

Let me say this about that coil puller tool. It is worth it's weight in gold. It will pull the coil much easier than without it.

Particularly on a new bike where the coils have not yet been pulled. After a few pulls, it seems like they loosen up a bit.

Even it you have a thin walled socket, be very careful to test that it does not get stuck. Lbump and I had a thin walled socket, which he used to take out two plugs, right side, then, left side, it got stuck and took 2 hours to get out.

Let me also recommend the Harmonizer for tbi balance. It is one sweet tool.

dc

[simskid]

Thanks. I ended up using some dental floss and pulled out the coil straight and true....no sweat. Also, had to grind my thin walled 16 MM socket so it would fit in either the primary or secondary plug holes. also used the Bosch plugs and it went off without a hitch. I know the specs call for plug change at 24 but i noticed an immediate improvement in the idle. This is really a great bike....

 

John

 

2009 RT

[Dave_in_TX]

Afternoon midatlanticcycle

 

On the spark plugs the stock NGK DCPR8EKC plugs are fairly propriety from BMW (big money). Not sure on the optional Bosch YR5LDE plugs

 

In any case your have a couple of other choices in the NGK brand that work just fine. The first is the NGK DCPR8EIX those are fine wire single electrode plugs & will work just fine. A bit closer to the production NGK plugs are the NGKDCPR8EKP, those are very similar to the stock dual electrode plugs only with a bit different (& better according to my NGK rep) electrodes.

 

I have personal experience with the DCPR8EIX and DCPR8EKP in my (now gone) 07 RT and prefer the DCPR8EIX. Admittedly, this is subjective, but it seemed to idle and run a bit smoother with the DCPR8EIX. I ran a set of DCPR8EIX for 48k miles and then replaced them with a set of DCPR8EKP.