jjsrt Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 I am doing my valve on a R1200rt 2009 for the first time on this bike. (I have done valves on the 1100 and 1150RT.) Is there a access port or window to view the TDC mark on the 1200rt? If so where? regards, Jeff H Link to comment
Frustrated_Diver Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 Remove the top spark plugs and CAREFULLY insert a screwdriver into one side’s hole, touching the piston. Shift up to 6th and while holding GENTLE pressure on the screwdriver, move the rear tire until the screwdriver no longer is being pushed out. This is top dead center. At this point, one side’s values are and the other’s open. Do the adjustment on the closed side. Repeat for the other side. Just this past weekend i did the 54,000 mile adjustment and the bike is running just fine. So, if i can do this task, just about any simple minded monkey should be able to do it also. And, i’m sure you are way above the monkey level. Link to comment
dirtrider Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 Afternoon Jeff No, not like on the 1100/1150. The 1200 hexhead uses a fixed crankshaft position sensor so no need for marks on the flywheel or viewing port. There is a TDC hole in the engine & in the flywheel so a TDC locking pin can be used (on R/H side on the 1200 hexhead) The service manual just says to bring a piston to TDC using rear wheel then adjust the side that has ALL the valves closed. Then rotate the engine again until piston at TDC & adjust the other side. Be very careful removing the upper coils as they don't come out easily & the wires can EASILY be damaged. CAREFULLY remove the wire connector going to the coil (note locking tab) then either use a proper coil removal tool, or use 2 screwdrivers--- one in the coil top notch & one in the lower coil notch with a piece of cardboard on the rocker cover coil hole edge, then slowly pry the coil out. OR-- if very careful you can remove the rocker cover with the coil still in the hole then just pull the coil out of the cover after both are removed. As far as feeling for piston TDC I use a standard lead pencil with the eraser end on the piston. Works great & the wood pencil doesn't damage the piston or spark plug hole threads. You can also use the cam sprocket arrows but they are difficult to use on the 1200 hexhead because of the vent pump & cam position sensor. If you want to use them in the future note their position when doing the job using piston position the first time. Link to comment
Bob_Minor Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 As far as feeling for piston TDC I use a standard lead pencil with the eraser end on the piston. Works great & the wood pencil doesn't damage the piston or spark plug hole threads. I keep a wooden chopstick in my toolbox as a dedicated TDC finder. Link to comment
dirtrider Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 I keep a wooden chopstick in my toolbox as a dedicated TDC finder. Afternoon Bob Not for me. I used one of my wife's chop sticks for a (non motorcycle) related project 30 years ago & I still hear about it 30 years later. I have no idea why as she never uses those darn things but she sure knows one is STILL missing. Link to comment
Ponch Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=35445 Link to comment
Nice n Easy Rider Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 I keep a wooden chopstick in my toolbox as a dedicated TDC finder. Afternoon Bob Not for me. I used one of my wife's chop sticks for a (non motorcycle) related project 30 years ago & I still hear about it 30 years later. I have no idea why as she never uses those darn things but she sure knows one is STILL missing. So next time you go to a Chinese restaurant ask for chopsticks. You'll get the cheap wooden ones you have to break apart, no doubt. When you're finished dining, wipe them off, slip them into the paper wrapper that is probably still sitting somewhere on your table, and take them home with you. Just don't let your wife see you doing it. Link to comment
David13 Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 DR I don't like the idea of a metal tool in the cylinder. I have seen people scratch a cylinder wall that way. Pencil, chop stick, McDonalds straw, anything that absolutely cannot wedge and cause damage. I do not believe that anyone suggested using the wife's chop sticks. I think they meant, use your own chop sticks. dc Link to comment
jjsrt Posted May 18, 2012 Author Share Posted May 18, 2012 thanks guys...this is the strangest thing...I went to the garage after reviewing all your posts..guess what I found on the corner of the tool box?? a bundle of older chopsticks...I have enough for a few hundred thousand miles.. Thanks again see ya on the road Jeff H Link to comment
w2ge Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 You know, at a oriental market... HUGE bags of chopsticks are like "pennies". Bought a bag years ago.. I've got a ton of them.. Anyone, stop by my house.. I'll give you all you want! ;-) Link to comment
midatlanticcycle Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 quick question: i've done valve adjustments on 1100, 1150, and 1200 RT models. just did my 1200RT last nite and called for cold adjustment of .012 on exhaust/.006 on intakes. i never noticed any difference whatsoever in the intake and exhaust lash whether using bmw's recommended method or just bringing each piston up to TDC on compression and checking lash. wonder why they call for TDC then intake....TDC then exhaust? just wondering. Link to comment
dirtrider Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 ----Wonder why they call for TDC then intake....TDC then exhaust? just wondering. Morning midatlanticcycle You need to explain this one a bit more, something doesn't make sense on this. Who calls for "TDC then intake....TDC then exhaust"? What is this referenced from? Link to comment
Ponch Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 I posted a link from the BMWMOA that explains how to do this. If you aren't a BMWMOA member, I will be glad to email you a PDF of the procedure. Link to comment
midatlanticcycle Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 DR: if i'm correct i was reading that for each boxer cylinder you bring the piston up to TDC with intake valves closing, then check intake valve lash for both valves. then continue to rotate motor and bring piston up to TDC with exhaust valves closing and check both exhaust valves. what i was saying was that when i bring piston up to TDC on compression stroke and check both intakes and exhausts it seems to work out the same as the staggered check as per above. Link to comment
dirtrider Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 Morning midatlanticcycle Where did you read that. I would like to read it myself so I have the entire context. That statment--("for each boxer cylinder you bring the piston up to TDC with intake valves closing, then check intake valve lash for both valves. then continue to rotate motor and bring piston up to TDC with exhaust valves closing and check both exhaust valves") by itself is wrong. Correct is to: bring piston to TDC on COMPRESSION, then adjust both intakes & both exhausts on that cylinder-- THEN rotate crankshaft 360°& bring the other side piston to TDC compression & adjust both intakes & both exhaust valves on that side. Link to comment
midatlanticcycle Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 Morning midatlanticcycle Where did you read that. I would like to read it myself so I have the entire context. That statment--("for each boxer cylinder you bring the piston up to TDC with intake valves closing, then check intake valve lash for both valves. then continue to rotate motor and bring piston up to TDC with exhaust valves closing and check both exhaust valves") by itself is wrong. YES D.R........that is the statement i was referring to. made no sense to me whatsoever. thanks for clearing it up. Link to comment
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