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New to BMW Bikes


Caerleon

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Hi all,

 

I was hoping to get some advice on my stead. I'm new to BMW bikes and have been doing alot of research on the 'tinkering' that is required, to prove this point i went into my local nationwide motor parts seller and asked for some Feeler Gauges - the guy looked at me with a blank expression and said "Never heard of them? Want a bag of spirit level bubbles instead" I had to laugh as i remember that one from my apprentice days.

 

This bike has 24k on the clock and is an old Met Police bike. I also have inside knowledge of what happended to the bike, where it was based and even someone i knew who rode it. I picked it up from a private seller and noticed a few problems with it. It accelerates extremely well! But it doesn't corner, i put that down to over inflated tyres looking at the wear on them, reduced the pressure and the back of the bike still steps out - i will replace all the tyres.It maybe due to the uprated suspension, so its not carrying as much weight as it used too. The front fork travel is about 3-4 inches which is a concern, i think the front shock is gone or i need to replace the fork oil for a thicker viscosity.

 

The other issue i noticed is a the clunky and very noisey gearbox. When i engage second gear i hear a very loud tin rattle, engage 3rd and it's gone and replaced with a motorsport sounding acceleration whine. All other gears sound fine. Does anyone know what could be causing this?

 

I decided after the 210 mile trip back home that i need to do a full covers off assesment of the bike, I was shocked as to the condition of it, the rear frame was all rusted where someone had let brake fluid leak all over the frame and fittings, the brake pipes were pitted, the bike was very dirty. So started with the plugs to check on the engine condition, the left was ok but the right was fouled with black carbon, i took this to be incorrect mixture. I had very noticeable surge and misfire at all speeds and in all gears, so i assumed that this was the cause.

 

I have so far completed all of the 24,000 mile service items, after being quoted £600 to do a 24K service and carb balance from an independant i decided I should do it myself.

 

The first issue was the extra crash bars/frames on the bike, couldn't remove the timing cover easily. Changed the plugs, did the valve timing (that took me back 20 years!),I replaced the HT cables and Coil with standard type rather than suppressed, stripped and fully cleaned both carbs, checked the TPS voltage, reset the free play in the cables, set bypass screws, cleaned the injector assm, changed the fuel fiter (Whoever designed that needs to be shot!).

 

I reassembled the bike and started it up - it went first time. Did the idle adjustment and balance with a gauge kit that i brought - everything looks good! But, i noticed that i still had the occasional misfire which i think is coming only from the right cylinder. I dont know if this is self igniting due to the carbon buildup and have been reading about de-coking. I used to do this may years ago with old mini engines with water, it used to blow the black crud out the exhaust, but i now have a cat'converter which i might damage if i do it on the bike. Has anyone used a different method?

 

I have yet to ride the bike after all the changes i have made and hoping that this weekend all will be sorted. This is my BMW adventure so far, i just hoping that it doesnt turn into a money pit.

 

 

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The numpty at what was presumably Halfords needs his arse kicking. Halfors do sell feeler guages - this is the correct name - as do all the non-chain car part shops I have ever seen. You can also get them at larger B&Q stores - I have even seen them in Tesco.

 

Here is a selection from Amazon UK.

 

The fromt fork oil has no effect on suspension - it is only tjere to lubricate the fork sliders - all the springing comes from the front shock. It is hard to compress the forks at standstill - put a tie-wrap around the fork leg, push it to the seal cap and go for a ride - this will show the total travel in normal conditions - which is not a lot on a telelever bike.

 

Tin-can rattle may be pinking (the rebel colonists in the US call it pinging), but the boxes are noisy and clunky. Use of earplugs helps here.

 

For carbon build-up, add chemical cleaner and ride at high-speed high-load (best do this on the IoM or Germany) for a tankfull.

 

Oh - and welcome to the forum :wave:

 

 

Andy

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Welcome!

 

If the bike continues to "step out" check the rear wheel play. Get it on the centre stand and grasp it at both 12 and 6 O'clock and 3 and 9 O'clock. There should be NO movement at 12/6 and you may have a very slight movement at 3/9, that's pretty usual. If the movement at 3/9 is substantial, then you will need to check/tighten up the pivot pins on the telelever. Movement at 12/6 is a whole nother issue, which we all hope you haven't got!!

 

 

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Thanks Philby,

 

Yes, i did check the rear play and the wheel bearings, everything is tight as i would expect it to be for the miles, i think a change of tyres and corect pressures would be a good step - if i have time i might get them this weekend, provided i get the other things out of the way.

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Numpty. That's a term we don't have in the States, but I'd sure like to know what it means exactly. Seems like a noun I'd like to use from time to time.

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Numpty. That's a term we don't have in the States, but I'd sure like to know what it means exactly. Seems like a noun I'd like to use from time to time.

 

Numpty

 

Andy

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Numpty = Duffus.

 

Well good news - the changes i have made seems to have solved the engine and handling issues. The change is amazing! It corners, it doesn't surge at all at low speeds.

 

I think it's fixed! Now for the rest of the fluid changes.

 

Thanks to all that helped me.

 

 

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George S.

I understand the tires cured the handling issue, but I don't see an explanation with regard to what you did to cure the engine issue. Was it just a cleaning? Please share.

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Clive Liddell

Hi Caerleon,

The gear change down from 3rd to 2nd is difficult to achieve noiselessly. The best way is a very quick change as you pull in the clutch lever.

 

You may be referring to gear whine - if so, TADT (they all do that) and the fairing on the RT seems to amplify the sound. I change all my fluids at every service and thought that I would find metal in the gear oil. I have never found a sign of any metal in gearbox oil or for that matter my final drive oil.

 

Two Oilheads with a combined distance of 220000km = over 22 services. Castrol 80W-90 GL5 gear oil.

 

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The only other thing I would suggest if not already done is that at some point you change the intake tubes between the air filter box and the throttle bodies for the ones from the GS version.

 

If this has not already been done, as it smooths the low end pickup and fills in the slight lack of driveability at mid range at the expense of some lost horses at high rpm.

 

Most people seem to be happy with the trade off.

 

And Welcome to the forum

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GRS

 

The 24K maint on the bike seems to have solved all the issues i reported, the only thing in addtion to the service was to strip and clean the carbs, the cable guides on these were greased? Greasing it will only encourage the crud to be there, so cleaned these off, checked operation.

 

The gearbox whine in 2nd and 3rd has totally gone, the carbs were out of balance. The only documented service i have despite the sellers word of mouth, was by the Police in mid 2010.

 

The gearbox oil in the final drive was a dark toffee colour, so i assume that it was crud coming thru the breather. I must admit i have never seen a final drive oil looking like this, it smelled right, the gearbox oil wasn't to the top either, much the same colour.

 

There was a 'o' ring missing from the bottom of the RH fuel injector, the RH vacuum nipple cover was split, the fuel filter was clogged with some black mess, the inside of the tank i found a police shoulder number '9' and a 'T' (My Traffic Collegues wear T as part of thier shoulder numbers and mainly the only solo riders), some leafs, a pound coin (result!), stones and other strange foreign objects.

 

It is a vast improvement, i just need to adapt my riding style from the previous fuel injected wonder machine i had.

 

Clive - Thanks I have never owned a motorcycle that requires so many fluid changes. The magnetic drain plugs had minute metal shavings in them - cleaned them both off well before i replaced them.

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The only other thing I would suggest if not already done is that at some point you change the intake tubes between the air filter box and the throttle bodies for the ones from the GS version.

 

I have been looking at this change, i got a price of £16 for each side. I might make the changes once i finished upgrading parts of the bike.

 

Before im shot down in flames, is it possible to retrofit the radio? Also, does anyone know if it is possible to fit a 6 speed box into the r1100rt?

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The only other thing I would suggest if not already done is that at some point you change the intake tubes between the air filter box and the throttle bodies for the ones from the GS version.

 

I have been looking at this change, i got a price of £16 for each side. I might make the changes once i finished upgrading parts of the bike.

 

Before im shot down in flames, is it possible to retrofit the radio? Also, does anyone know if it is possible to fit a 6 speed box into the r1100rt?

 

It is theoretically possible to retrofit the radio - the parts you need are here.

The cost would be high unless you can get hold of used bits and the benefit minimal - the sound quality is iffy at best and you cannot hear the radio if you are moving above about 50mph. A small FM radio and earbuds is a much better system.

 

The 6-speed box has totally different castings and is in my opinion a retrograde step. BMW could have put a higher top gear for economy and left the bottom 5 the same but they did not. 6th is unusable below 60-65 and 5th is too low for continuous use at that kind of speed. Oh, and 1st is too high. All in all a buggers muddle - the 5-speed is a much better box in my opinion.

 

Andy

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Well, I agree with Andy about the 5spd M97 :thumbsup:.

IF you live in the UK or ride a lot in urban settings! LOL

 

The 6 speed box is wonderful if you live in Texas :)!

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Ok thanks for the information. I suppose if i want a radio i can hear, i should have brought a Goldwing =)

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Numpty. That's a term we don't have in the States, but I'd sure like to know what it means exactly. Seems like a noun I'd like to use from time to time.

 

 

 

World English Dictionary

numpty (ˈnʌmptɪ)

 

— n , pl -ties

informal ( Scot ) a stupid person :dopeslap:

 

 

 

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Numpty. That's a term we don't have in the States, but I'd sure like to know what it means exactly. Seems like a noun I'd like to use from time to time.

 

 

 

World English Dictionary

numpty (ˈnʌmptɪ)

 

— n , pl -ties

informal ( Scot ) a stupid person :dopeslap:

 

 

 

More recently, the Scots have changed over to the word "Tube!"

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Numpty. That's a term we don't have in the States, but I'd sure like to know what it means exactly. Seems like a noun I'd like to use from time to time.

 

 

 

World English Dictionary

numpty (ˈnʌmptɪ)

 

— n , pl -ties

informal ( Scot ) a stupid person :dopeslap:

 

 

 

More recently, the Scots have changed over to the word "Tube!"

 

Oh, they were using that in the 1970's. When I was in the RAF, I was desribed as such on quite a few occasions by my Scottish sergeant.

 

Andy

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