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Rear wheel movement


tbird1

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Hi

I found that the rear wheel on my 02 1150rt can move slightly if you grab it at 9 - 3 . It gives off a little knocking noise seems like from the hub.

There does not seem to be any movement at the rubber grommet on the shaft drive.

What is going wrong? Is it expensive to fix?

The bike has 60Kilometres on the clock.

 

Brian

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It could be a couple of things. Do the same test while applying the rear brake. If you can't do this yourself have someone else apply the rear brake for you. This will lock the final drive to the brake and if you still have movement it's your pivot bearings. Not a big problem. Also check for movement at 6 and 12 oclock positions without the brake applied. This will check the final drive. If it's the FD it will be a bigger problem.

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Thanks Gary

 

Brake on and the movement is the same so it must be the pivot bearings. The 6 a 12 position does not give any movement that I can feel. The pivot bearings were adjusted a year ago, is this a common adjustment?

 

Brian

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Morning Brian

 

Unfortunately the rear brake caliper FLOATS on your 02 RT so while locking the rear brake locks the caliper to the brake rotor the caliper itself can still float latterly on it's pins even when clamped to the rotor.

 

Locking the rear brake can go a ways towards locking the final drive spool to the swing arm but you just can't depend on that to remove all the final drive bearing play due to that floating caliper.

 

With your KNOCKING noise when moving the rear wheel that sort of points to a final drive bearing but only getting movement when grabbing the wheel at 9 & 3 o'clock points more towards swing arm pivot bearings.

 

To correctly see what you are working with-- first, ride the bike a ways to heat the final drive up & thin the gear oil. Then have someone else grab the rear wheel at both 9-3 & 12-6 o'clock. While the other person is moving the rear wheel (within it's play) place your finger between the brake rotor & brake caliper BRACKET (not the caliper itself) to look for play there. Any movement between the brake rotor & final drive points to final drive bearings.

 

Then feel across the swing arm pivots when the wheel is being deflected.

 

At your mileage you might have some movement in both the final drive bearing & the swing arm bushings.

 

If you have any movement in the final drive bearing, ride the bike to get the final drive hot, then drain the final drive gear oil into a CLEAN pan. Then strain the gear oil though a coffee filter or paper towel. After it is all strained though the filter (will take a while) take the coffee filter/or towel out into the sun & look for signs of sparkly things or metal. Anything sharp is probably a sign of a disintegrating crown bearing. If your final drive has a drain magnet run any debris found on the magnet between your finger & thumb. Anything sharp feeling is a sign of possible crown bearing issues.

 

As to cost to repair? That really depends on what you find wrong & who does the repair. You probably won't know what's wrong until taken apart for inspection.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

I removed the rear drive and pivot pins. The bearing on the inside was a mangled mess. The "adjustment" a year ago was not done to specifications evidenced by the stillson marks on the lock nut. The out side pivot pin showed some wear so I decided to replaced everything. Unfortunately i only ordered the bearings So currently I am waiting for the new pins to arrive this week to put it all together again.

Brian

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