Jump to content

Shifter alignment


Hobbs

Recommended Posts

Hello, my 96 r1100rt recently had a clutch job by a local, reputable, non-BMW mech.

All was well, only rode a few times before putting it back into the shop for a front master cylinder.

I lost first gear...keep popping out , then not able to get it at all. All other gears usable.

At home noticed the bolt for the shift lever (pivot point) was loose, as was the shift lever.

There are two securing positions...upper and lower. Not sure which one is correct.

The back side of the mounting side plate, is milled out for the "tall"oval key of the shift lever.

I have removed the side mounting plate to see how the mechanics work. Replaced everything. I have first again but no other gears.

 

Is there some sort of alignment I'm missing? I'm not ready for a tranny overhaul.

Thanks in advance for your shared knowledge.

James.

Link to comment

The two holes are only there to provide a rather crude preference in how high or low the shifter is positioned relative to your left toe. Your problem description sounds like the shifter is hitting the plate at the end of its travel; if the shifter is too high, this would be consistent with getting into First, but being unable to shift into higher gears.

 

You can fine-tune the shifter height by adjusting the linkage (the leftmost part in the diagram below); if you loosen the lock nut, you should be able to shorten or lengthen this linkage as needed to avoid running into the end of the curved opening in the side plate.

 

screenshot-20120422-115225.png

 

Assuming you get this sorted out, back the pivot bolt out, grease the pivot bearing, put a dab of Loctite on the threads of the bolt, and tighten things back up. If there is a lot of side to side movement at the front of the shifter, you may want to replace the plastic bushings in which the pivot bearing ride; getting rid of the slop that develops over time will give you slightly more precise shifting.

Link to comment
Galactic Greyhound

Note also that the pivot bush for the shifter has two flats on it. These flats fit between two vertical ridges on the footplate which prevent the bush from rotating. You can 'feel' the bush into the correct location from underneath the footplate.

 

If you don't Blue Loctite the pivot bolt as Selden says it WILL loosen off and cause shifting problems.

Link to comment

ok, before I adjust what use to work, I want to make sure I have everything mechanical aligned. It use to work and now that the bolt loosened up, it doesn't. So I was hoping that I didn't have to realign the duel ended ball-joint type linkage connector (the throw) since it use to work.

Is there a general position this bolt should be in...upper or lower...or in between?

 

Thanks again guys...

James

 

96 R1100RT

Link to comment

The pivot bushing should be in the channel and not spanning the channel...right? I don't see how any other position can be obtained since there are only two bolt positions.

what position is your shifter bolt in? ;-)

Link to comment

not sure what the pic is from, it does help speaking to it though, but mine has a vertical post going up from the middle of the shift leaver going to the linkage. All worth the conversation, and thank you.

Link to comment
Galactic Greyhound
The pivot bushing should be in the channel and not spanning the channel...right? I don't see how any other position can be obtained since there are only two bolt positions.

what position is your shifter bolt in? ;-)

 

The channel is formed by the two vertical ridges at the REAR of the footplate.The pivot bushing with the flats is Item 12 on jjg3's post above (the flats are not shown on the diagram). This flatted bush is on the shifter pivot which is behind the footplate. The flatted bush should fit between the vertical ridges at the rear of the footplate to prevent the bush from rotating.

 

Feel the bush into position from underneath the footplate to get the flats between the ridges, hold it there while you screw in the shifter retaining bolt from the FRONT of the footplate.

 

At the FRONT of the footplate where the shifter bolt goes is a sort of channel with only two positions for the head of the shifter bolt. The bolt should NOT span between these two positions.

 

The shifter bolt on my '96 R1100RT is in the lower position.

Link to comment

There are only 2 positions for the pivot point, but the lever is then further adjustable by means of the adjustable rose joints.

 

Andy

5970.jpg.bf33bd355fca7682a931ce2e70155756.jpg

Link to comment
I think the previous image is from an RS.

You are absolutely correct; thanks for spotting my error. Both RS and RT shift linkages use an adjustable length rod. Here's a drawing from the repair manual that shows all the parts involved in this area of the RT:

 

screenshot-20120423-131042.png

Link to comment
Bruce (Bedford)

Hi Hobbs

No help really just to say that when I changed my clutch last year I ended up with gear shift issues too - then just as you I had the front master cylinder go! Spooky eh?

All the best Bruce

Link to comment

FWIW, I had a loose pivot point to and it screwed up shifting. The adjustment screw was frozen into the long bolt/bracket on the back, though lose, so I drilled it out and bought a new screw and achor bracket/bolt. After replacing, I could not get it to up shift properly no matter what I did at the adjustment point. I finally had to file the shifter slot top side in the foot peg plate about 1/8 inch so the shifter could get a full swing. What changed is beyond me, but it works fine now.

Link to comment

Evening, again. I think, and am hoping, that the position selected (lower) and the pivot bushing in the channel that from there the relative position can be placed and locked down. Meaning that there is adjustment from its securing point befor it is locked down.

This all goes with what Selden said about the two holes are there to provide a crude preference...and Glactic Greyhound referenced the pivot bush...so I'm hoping there is adjustment. Thank you all for responding and maybe you know if I'm right or wrong but I'll find out soon. :-)

Link to comment

Hi Bruce. We have the same bike, color and all. I have the side bags too. I have under 64k miles. I absolutely love it!

Cheers!

Link to comment

All is well in the final results. I have all 5.

Bolted in lower hole (a few times). Tried to walk through the gears. After being able to see 2nd with the key on/engine off (1,N,2), I wasn't able to see 3rd or beyond ( and of course Neutral light is out).

So I went for a test ride and all 5 were present up and down. No sign of misbehaving. 1st holds tight even at upper RPM's.

I don't think I was able to adjust the position of the level once it was in either of the mounting positions like I was hoping to.

Thank you all for insights and suggestions!

R/Hobbs

ps buying loctite

Link to comment
Galactic Greyhound

 

screenshot-20120423-131042.png

 

 

that is a beautiful picture :-) thx!

 

Yup! and you can also see the 'flats' on the shifter (Item 1) bush which need to get inserted between the cast vertical ridges on the back of the footplate.

Link to comment
Bruce (Bedford)
Hi Bruce. We have the same bike, color and all. I have the side bags too. I have under 64k miles. I absolutely love it!

Cheers!

I hate to say this Hobbs (everyone else look away you've heard it before) I HATE the colour, the tupperware is in for respray even as I type, it'll be back all shiney & BLACK shortly, yippee! 64k on mine too and yes I LOVE it as well. If I can work out how to post a pic I will.

Bruce

Link to comment

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...