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questions after fluids change


NJNeal

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Hi folks. Nice day in NJ today for working or riding.

 

I did my first fluid change on my 1150RT and had a couple of questions for people familiar with these.

About 3k miles and 10 months since last service, which was the 24k scheduled service, done at 17,500 miles.

 

Oil change went without a hitch. I switched to synthetic this time, supplied by BeemerBoneyard (great service, one day from order to receipt).

 

Tran fluid, interestingly looked brand new. I guess I changed it too soon at only 3k miles. I find the transmission, especially shifting 5th to 6th or vice versa, to have a 'clunk'. I think this is probably normal, and sometimes mitigated when I match engine speed well. I don't notice this much in lower gears. I changed the fluid to synthetic hoping it would be quieter when shifting from 5 to 6. No change.

 

Question: the manual talked about some accessory tool for RTs when draining trans fluid. Evidently it screws into drain hole to avoid getting any fluid on the paint work? Anyone use one? I used aluminum foil to protect the exhaust and paint from any drips....seemed to work.

 

Final drive fluid didn't look new. It looked kinda milky. When retightening the drain bolt on the FD, my torque wrench never clicked, and yet I clearly overtorqued the bolt...it deformed the crush washer. I removed it. It was difficult to remove. I used a new crush washer, and got my torque wrench to give me the right spec.

Question: Did I damage the threads in the FD? It's not leaking at all. And is milky FD fluid a sign of anything? Based on the color, I don't think it was changed at the last service interval...have to ask dealer if he has a record.

 

Thanks for any insights on my two questions.

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Tran fluid does not get dirty very fast only change at longer intervals. Trans clunks its whole life unless you match velocities just right. I do not use any hose for trans fluid and nothing is damaged. Final drive should not be milky. Do not use any lube when torquing bolt, it will not be right. clean it up good first, it must be dry threads.

 

Milky lube is usually water contamination? put in new and clean off magnetic drain plug too. The water may be from high pressure cleaning?

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I agree with Critical, these transmissions are well known for being "clunky". The milkiness of the FD oil was probably just condensation build-up over a length of time, see what it's like next time you change it. I don't bother with anything to deflect the oil when draining the gearbox, just put a tray underneath to catch most of it and then wipe off that which ends up on the exhaust, the rest soon burns off! As for the drain plugs, don't bother with a torque wrench on these type of fittings, you should be able to develop a "feel" for sufficient tightness if you're doing your own maintenenace. Whenever there is an ally or copper crush washer (or fibre for that matter) present that is itself an indication that the plug doesn't need excessive tightening,

 

Dave.

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thanks for the responses. hopefully i didn't bugger the threads on the FD drain plug. it's still all dry under the bike this morning.

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Preload when shifting.

 

24k service done at 17.5?

Was the gas filter replaced then?

 

I use a torque wrench.

Many will say you can develop a fell, which is true for many, not all.

I find it easier to torque, YMMV.

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Preload when shifting.

 

24k service done at 17.5?

Was the gas filter replaced then?

 

I use a torque wrench.

Many will say you can develop a fell, which is true for many, not all.

I find it easier to torque, YMMV.

 

Yes, the fuel filter was replaced at that time. They did everything that would have been associated with a 24k at 17.5

Yeah, inclined to continue using torque wrenches, but don't understand why my brand new Craftsman didn't click at 23Nm. Probably pilot error of some kind.

 

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Galactic Greyhound

That's why I have stopped using my 'clicker' type torque wrench in favour of the old-fashioned but simpler beam type with the torsion bar scale at the handle. I nearly stripped my sump plug threads because either I never heard and felt the 'click' or it didn't do it. With the beam type you can see the torque going up and know where you are, with a faulty clicker type your threads have gone before you realise too late that something is not right.

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This high-tech device works well to help drain the transmission fluid into the drain pan instead of all over the cat. You slide the end under the drain plug "tube" then carefully tilt the bike and slide a small board or any type of wedge under the left side of the center stand to make draining a little easier and neater. With a long extension on ratchet you can loosen the drain plug right through the hole for the bottle cap.

 

I first loosen the fill plug, but don't remove it until I've gotten the drain plug out of the high-tech drainage device. This slows the drainage until the path is clear.

 

standard.jpg

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