Jump to content
IGNORED

R1150 GS Blue Sea 5025 Fuse Block Install


Global_Rider

Recommended Posts

Instead of attaching a slew of wires with associated fuses to my battery posts, I decided to install a Blue Sea Systems 5025 - 6 Circuit Fuse Block with Negative Bus on my R1150 GS Adventure. I also installed the identical unit on a friend's R1150 GS. The chosen location of installation of the fuse block makes for easy access as well as placing the unit next to the battery; a logical location.

 

A slightly smaller unit is the Blue Sea Systems 5028 - 6 Circuit Fuse Block without Negative Bus, but the 5025 fits nicely in the available space so I went with it instead. Besides, I wanted a negative bus on my fuse block.

 

The fuse block is mounted on an aluminium plate that was shaped, bent, drilled, glass beaded and then mat clear coated. It attaches to the bracket that holds the diagnostic plug using two rivets.

 

 

The front of the Blue Sea Systems 5025 Fuse Block mounting plate...

bluesea5025mountingplatefront8.jpg

 

 

The rear of the Blue Sea Systems 5025 Fuse Block mounting plate...

bluesea5025mountingplaterear0v.jpg

 

 

The Blue Sea Systems 5025 Fuse Block installed on the mounting plate...

bluesea5025onmountingplate5yo.jpg

 

 

The finished product on my R1150 GS Adventure...

bluesea5025mounted3ug.jpg

 

 

My Blue Sea Systems fuse block is wired directly to the battery using 10 ga wire with heavy duty eye lugs soldered to each end. Each wire is then covered in plastic spiral wrap for added protection, not that it is required in my installation. Considering how the main power wires are routed and protected in my installation, a main fuse for the fuse block wasn't used; BMW doesn't fuse the main power feed from the battery to the alternator or starter either.

 

My Blue Sea Systems fuse block is HOT all the time which is the way I wanted it, otherwise a relay capable of handling a continuous current draw would be inserted between the positive of the battery and the fuse block.

 

Connected to my Blue Sea Systems Fuse Block are:

- Hella FF50 driving lights,

- AutoSwitch,

- auxilliary power connector (cigarette lighter outlet),

- YUASA Battery Analyzer (connects to my YUASA Hot Shot battery maintainer and powers my electric vest),

- Datel LCD digital voltmeter, PN: DMS-20LCD-1-DCM.

 

A dimensional drawing of the mounting plate for the Blue Sea Systems 5025 Fuse Block is available upon request by PMing or e-mailing me.

Link to comment

Alex,

 

Nice job, and thanks for the illustrative posting.

 

One question: Do you know whether your chosen mounting location will work with the Corbin heated seat, or have you just tried it with the stock seat? The Corbin has some modules on the front/underside of the seat pan which control the electric seat heaters. I can't tell from memory whether those might interfere with the aux fusebox in the shown location.

 

Thanks,

Tom

Link to comment
One question: Do you know whether your chosen mounting location will work with the Corbin heated seat, or have you just tried it with the stock seat?

 

Tom,

 

I have a bit of an iron butt and as a result, I've never had an aftermarket seat.

 

So, will it interfere with a Corbin seat? I don't know. Compared to a stock seat, how much less space is under the front of a Corbin seat?

 

I can get back to you with how much space is between the cover of my fuse block and my stock seat...a good guess would be at least 3/4", if not 1". Let me know.

Link to comment
I did a similar install on my 12GS.

 

Jim cool.gif

 

Hi Jim,

 

Yes, I noticed that which prompted me to finally get around to posting a similar thread for the R1150 GS...or any R1150 with the possibility of installing a fuse block within the rear of the gas tank opening. I did identical installs on both my GS Adventures and a friend's R1150 GS.

 

My thread wasn't so much about wiring, instead, it was more about how to mount, install and wire the fuse block itself.

 

My R1150 GS Driving Light Relay & AutoSwitch Install is more about the interconnection of the two items and not so much about how to wire up my driving lights.

 

BTW, you have a 10A and 20A fuse installed in your fuse block so far. The positive and negative feed wires to the fuse block look a bit thin. If you add any more circuits, you might consider 10 ga. or better.

Link to comment

BTW, you have a 10A and 20A fuse installed in your fuse block so far. The positive and negative feed wires to the fuse block look a bit thin. If you add any more circuits, you might consider 10 ga. or better.

 

You are absolutely right. I used the smaller guage wire because that was all I had at the time. I am adding another set of lights in the next few days and will be replacing it with 10GA wire.

 

Thanks for the confirmation on the size I need.

 

Jim cool.gif

Link to comment

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...