Aluminum_Butt Posted December 14, 2005 Share Posted December 14, 2005 I've got some electrical projects planned for my GT, and want to pull the tank so I can route the wires correctly. I found a guide for doing this on Rhinewest's Site as part of installing their ECU. Clamping of the fuel lines is obviously required, and their tool list calls for "2 - 13X9mm Fuel line clamps, refer to service manual". Can anybody clue me in on what a "fuel line clamp" is? Is this a typical size? Can I get this at my local auto parts store, or only at the dealer? Is there an acceptable substitute? TIA! Link to comment
rdfrantz Posted December 14, 2005 Share Posted December 14, 2005 Guy, I don't think you need fuel line clamps. The fuel lines have quick disconnects in them. If you ever need to clamp a fuel line you can use baby vice grips, which use up a bit of space, or surgical retractors, used to clamp veins and such. Those are more space efficent, can multi-task, and are easily and cheaply available from drug stores or surgical supply outlets. I don't believe there's really any "correct" way to route wires. What works, works, and that seems to be any method that doesn't foul mechanical operation that protects the wires or lines from damage. Under the tank does not necessarily coincide with that, nor is it the only routing that would. Anyway, I've always routed my wires and such coming from the seat area to the steering head area, in sheathes or not, alongside the tank. If taped to the tank's side, or lower edge, they are out of the way for any mechanic's task when they dive in there under the tank. And, I then don't need to worry about how they up and decide how to route them underneath the tank - which is hidden from me and my evaluation the appropriateness of their choice. Best wishes. Link to comment
Spinner Posted December 14, 2005 Share Posted December 14, 2005 You really don't need to completely remove the tank to run wires. After removing the fasteners that hold the tank on, gently pull it back and lift the front up, supporting it with a small cardboard box underneath. That gives ample space to remove the air-intake snorkel, giving free access to run wires. If you want to remove the tank, simply free up the quick-disconnects - no clamps needed. However, it would be a good idea to replace the quick connects, so a few hemostats do a good job of clamping the lines. Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.