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Modify RT for easy jump Start?


donhallman

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Any suggestion on the best way to set up an RT so that it can be jumped without removing seat or faring? Something like an extended shielded cable from the Pos. terminal.

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russell_bynum

I would think that it would be fairly easy to rig up an extension off the pos. battery terminal, but the easy place to terminate it would be under the seat (over the airbox).

 

Since seat removal is a quick task, I would think that would be an OK solution. If you have to jump start the bike so often that seat removal is too much trouble, you've got bigger problems. smile.gif

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Any suggestion on the best way to set up an RT so that it can be jumped without removing seat or faring? Something like an extended shielded cable from the Pos. terminal.

 

The last of the 1150RTs had a jump start terminal on them from the factory. I am sure your dealer will be happy to supply the part for you.

Cya, Andy thumbsup.gif

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Any suggestion on the best way to set up an RT so that it can be jumped without removing seat or faring? Something like an extended shielded cable from the Pos. terminal.

 

To retrofit pre-2004RT's with the same jump start hardware as the 2004 models the following are required

 

Jump Start Connection Angle Piece 61217671334 - $7.20

Jump Start Connection Protector Cap 61137672395 - $3.40

Jump Start Connection Connector 61137671354 - $8.50

 

Regards,

 

Mike O

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Hi,

Back when I had my 2002 RT I rigged one up for about two bucks. Find either a used or new battery cable for a car, truck, jeep, tractor, etc. Take off the tupperware on the left side to reveal the starter motor. Attach the battery cable to the positive pole on the starter. Zip tie the cable back along the frame til you get to the area covered by the little black triangle thingy. (You know, the one that comes off without any hex head screws). Strip the insulation off the battery cable on the end by the black triangle thingy and then wrap the exposed wires with a think layer of electrical tape. Put the black plastic thingy back on. Now, in a pinch you can jump your bike by unwrapping the electrical tape to expose the wire, attach the positive jumper cable to this wire and the ground can go to the foot peg plate, which has enough metal to provide a ground.

 

Mike

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I just put one of those battery terminal extensions on my '98 r1100rt, someone was kind enough to post those same part numbers for me a while back. Now, you can take off the seat and see a nice positive battery terminal with a black plastic protective cap staring at you, in case you ever need a jump start. Question- They have booster cables that go from cigarette lighter to cigarette lighter on cars- isn't it possible to rig up a heavy-duty cable for BMW bikes that goes from power receptacle to power receptacle? Michael

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No you can't use the accessory plugs to common bikes together - unless you can find a way to limit the current to about 10 Amps which is the fuse rating..........!

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To retrofit pre-2004RT's with the same jump start hardware as the 2004 models the following are required

 

Jump Start Connection Angle Piece 61217671334 - $7.20

Jump Start Connection Protector Cap 61137672395 - $3.40

Jump Start Connection Connector 61137671354 - $8.50

_________________________________________________________

 

If you buy two of the connectors you can use the second one and put it on the aft left cylinder for your ground lug. If there's an '04 in the shop (as I was fortunate to find) perhaps the dealer will show you the set up. The above parts for the positive side, and the spare connector on the left jug for the ground.

 

I had run my battery completely down, and I was afraid to use anything through the power outlets just due to the high load to charge the battery up. If I were just going to do a maintenance, or trickle charge, I would consider using a small charger through the power outlets. For a dead battery, the jumper lugs directly to the battery are the cats rearend.

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If you buy two of the connectors you can use the second one and put it on the aft left cylinder for your ground lug.

 

Is there a problem just grounding to the frame with jumper cables? Or, is the engine a better groounding source?

Thanks.

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I crushed, bent and drilled two short pieces of copper tubing from the battery terminals to just below the rear edge of the gas tank. I now have EZ access for jumper cables and a battery charger for cheap.

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Any suggestion on the best way to set up an RT so that it can be jumped without removing seat or faring? Something like an extended shielded cable from the Pos. terminal.

 

If you want to push-start it when the battery is low, there's nothing to it.

 

Push the bike in gear with the key on and the clutch, then when you are ready to make it fire, release the cluth and at the same time momentarily hit the starter button.

 

This is not to make the starter work (since I assume the battery is nearly dead). The reason is that by hitting the starter button, the fuel pump is started for a few seconds, so the injection system will start working.

 

I have an old K100RT that occasionally has the starter clutch hang up. I have done this several times, and it works great. Also got me out of the glue a couple of times with a fuel-injected BMW 320i I used to have.

 

Bob.

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No you can't use the accessory plugs to common bikes together - unless you can find a way to limit the current to about 10 Amps which is the fuse rating..........!

 

10 amps is fine for chargeing but would never jump start. Remember power is amps x volts so on a 12 volt system a 10 amp circuit isn't much power. On a 120 volt circuit it is, well, 10 times as much. --Jerry

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I think the frame ground is just fine, but the engine lug goes on the bottom of the cam cover and it sticks right out to where you don't have to remove any tupperware or covers to get to it, and since it's not painted, it grounds very well. I think it's just a matter of personal preference.

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