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torque wrench set for 2004 BMW R1150RT


mikepi

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I just purchased a 2004 R1150RT and CANNOT find a set of torque wrenches to work on my bike. Can anyone suggest a store where I can buy a set with handles that will fit?

Thank you

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Good ol' Sears!!

One for the low increments 3/8th's drive up till like 25'lb's and one for the larger increments 1/2" drive up to 75'lb's. pretty much all ya need.

As a matter of fact they might still be on sale,if not wait a touch,with the Holidays here,their bound to be on sale again.

Don't forget to checkout the Torx/star hex sockets,you'll need them also.

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I just purchased a 2004 R1150RT and CANNOT find a set of torque wrenches to work on my bike. Can anyone suggest a store where I can buy a set with handles that will fit?

Thank you

 

Mike, what do you mean "handles that will fit"?

 

You ought to have three of them.

 

Get one that reads in inch/lbs for small fasteners.

 

Then get two more for big fasters. Do not try to cover the whole range of BMW larger fastners with one wrench. They are inherently inaccurate at the outer 20% of their ranges of calibration so you should get a set that lets you use the middle of their ranges for smaller and larger fasteners.

 

Craftsman's Beam Torque Wrenches (0 to 75 and 0 to 150 lbs/ft) for $30 each are perfectly good tools for our use. They both look like this.

 

Despite my feelings about beam-type vs clickers, the inch/pound one will have to be a clicker-type if you buy from Sears. They don't offer a beam-type for small torque values. What they have is like this

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00944593000

 

Some people will argue in favor of click-type wrenches for all uses. They cost at least twice the money, though, and it's a totally unnecessary expenditure. You get no better accuracy from the more expensive type, the beam-type offers less opportunity for expensive mistakes, and it is all-around easier to maintain.

 

But, as I said, others think otherwise. They're fulla s**t, of course grin.gif, but they're entitled to their unfounded, anal-retentive, complexity-fixated, worthless opinions. tongue.gifwink.gif

 

http://www.wildwestcycle.com/f_torque.html

Pilgrim

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Joe Frickin' Friday
Some people will argue in favor of click-type wrenches for all uses. They cost at least twice the money, though, and it's a totally unnecessary expenditure. You get no better accuracy from the more expensive type, the beam-type offers less opportunity for expensive mistakes, and it is all-around easier to maintain.

 

But, as I said, others think otherwise. They're fulla s**t, of course grin.gif, but they're entitled to their unfounded, anal-retentive, complexity-fixated, worthless opinions. tongue.gifwink.gif

 

May I be excused? I'm full... crazy.gif

 

While more expensive and not inherently more accurate, I do think the clickers are easier to use. In many situations it's easier to pay attention to the tactile feedback of the clicker than it is to keep your head/eye in a particular orientation to watch the needle on the beam wrench.

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i purchased what i needed to meet my torque, hex, torqx, etc., needs from sears piecemeal. i had some decent tools, but needed others. i'm pretty well set now to change fluids/oils, take tupperware off, etc. i also waited for sales and feel very comfy with the quality of the items.

 

happy wrenching grin.gif

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While more expensive and not inherently more accurate, I do think the clickers are easier to use. In many situations it's easier to pay attention to the tactile feedback of the clicker than it is to keep your head/eye in a particular orientation to watch the needle on the beam wrench.

 

Mitch, in all seriousness, you're absolutely right, especially in the instance you cite. Furthermore, the clicker is easier to use under some other circumstances, particularly when torquing a series of fasteners to the same value.

 

To me, though, the anaylytical tradeoff for that is the fact that if you're not paying close attention to your setup on the clicker you will overtorque or undertorque fasteners. I have, for instance, caught myself using the metric side of the scale when what I wanted was ft/lbs. Others on this board have stripped or broken fasteners because of setup errors.

 

So at least insofar as it relates to a new user of torque wrenches, especially one operating on a limited budget, I'll stand by my position that the beam type is preferable.

 

But in all truth, I have several of both types and use them all as needed.

 

Pilgrim

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While more expensive and not inherently more accurate, I do think the clickers are easier to use. In many situations it's easier to pay attention to the tactile feedback of the clicker than it is to keep your head/eye in a particular orientation to watch the needle on the beam wrench.

 

Mitch, in all seriousness, you're absolutely right, especially in the instance you cite. Furthermore, the clicker is easier to use under some other circumstances, particularly when torquing a series of fasteners to the same value.

 

Amen to that. I race a vintage Porsche, and I check the torque on all the lug nuts before every session. That's about 100 clicks per weekend - anything but a clicker would take forever and would make you blind. I have a torque wrench dedicated to just doing wheel nuts, and I check the setting each time before I use it - replacing wheel studs at the track is always a PITA. Haven't stripped one in 17 years.

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I just purchased a 2004 R1150RT and CANNOT find a set of torque wrenches to work on my bike. Thank you

It seems this thread is mixing two distinctly different ideas. I get the idea from the original poster that he meant to say 'torx' rather than 'torque' (sic).

There is a difference between 'torque' and 'torx'. Many of the fasteners on our bikes are of the 'torx' variety. They look kind of like an allen fastener, but are still different. They require 'torx' wrenches or drivers to turn them. These tools come in a variety of sizes to fit the particular fastener, and one would need a set as described above from Sears, for example.

"Torque" wrenches, on the other hand. are used to tighten a particular fastener to a certain specification. Generally, we only need one torque wrench that measures in Newton-meters, since a torque wrench can accept virtually any kind of driver bit.

So.. you need one good torque wrench, and probably a set of T-handle torx drivers along with a set of torx driver bits to use with the torque wrench.

Confusing enough?

I'd go to Sears for both for general shade-tree wrenchin' wink.gif

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