Another Clutch/Transmission question

[BobW03]

After reading so much about the need to check the splines on the RT, I have been dismantling my 03 R1150RT. I did purchase a great video that has helped me get to the point of lifting the tail in the air and removed the swingarm,etc. My question is how to remove the shaft which is connected to the back of the transmission. I cannot determine how to remove it even using the Clymer manual. Is there a clip holding it in place? Also what is the preferred grease to use? Is there a high temp available or is Honda Moly good? I bought the bike a few years ago with 8300 miles and now have 32k on the odometer. This is my first BMW.

 

Thanks for all the great reading on this forum.

[Mr. Frank]

Some people are using Guard Dog Moly 30 as a spline lubricant. It sounds encouraging.

[OoPEZoO]

Give the driveshaft a good tug. There is an internal snap ring in the driveshaft that clips into a groove on the end of the output shaft. It doesn't get removed, it can just be a little tight sometimes. Just give'er hell till it pops apart.

 

[BobW03]

I will be removing the transmission on Thursday and I bought a new clutch plate just in case. If the splines look OK, should I still replace the cluth plate since I am this far into the project?

 

Thanks

Bob

[dan cata]

Check the thickness of the plate, 6.4 mms is as new, 4.6mms - needs replacement.

 

Also, you could have just removed the gearbox along with the swingarm and the rear wheel, it makes things easier

 

Dan.

[Jim Moore]

My question is how to remove the shaft which is connected to the back of the transmission. I cannot determine how to remove it even using the Clymer manual. Is there a clip holding it in place?

 

There is a clip holding it in place. Just wedge a big screwdriver in there and pop it out.

[awagnon]

Also, you could have just removed the gearbox along with the swingarm and the rear wheel, it makes things easier

 

The above is true, unless you discover the splines are bad and you need to replace the input shaft to the transmission. It's a real bear getting the transmission off the paralever when it's off the bike. The pivot bearing bolts and lock nuts require ton's of torque, even with heat. BTDT and ended up putting it back together so I could take it apart again.

[OoPEZoO]

Also, you could have just removed the gearbox along with the swingarm and the rear wheel, it makes things easier

 

The above is true, unless you discover the splines are bad and you need to replace the input shaft to the transmission. It's a real bear getting the transmission off the paralever when it's off the bike. The pivot bearing bolts and lock nuts require ton's of torque, even with heat. BTDT and ended up putting it back together so I could take it apart again.

 

+1.....I made that mistake as well. When I found the splines were shot, I had a hell of a time removing the final drive and swing arm from the transmission. From then on I always took the extra 15-20min to remove the final drive and swingarm first

[BobW03]

Yup. learned last weekend just how long I had to apply heat to remove the swingarm. The left side went fairly quickly with a heat gun. But the right side took over 1/2 hour to get it to budge. I did not bother removing the final drive as there is no leak around the boot. What I did find weird is the driveshaft is coated in what appears to be white Lithium grease. Like the stuff you put on a heta sink. I guess I will just wipe it off.

[dave sawyer]

Hey Bob,

If you have only 32K, I doubt you're ready for a new clutch. I changed mine at 100k and it wasn't near minimum. Of course it depends on your riding style, but you'd have to do a lot of clutch slipping to need a new one. You may even be able to get a measurement by removing the starter and viewing from that point. You can even see the the splines with a strong light.

As too heating the fittings that use red locktite, I use a torch. Yep the same one I sweat plumbing joints with. I use a non-contact temp. gauge, the point and shoot type. Takes about a minute or two to get up too the correct temp. to soften the locktite, and I've never scorched or blistered the finish.

Good wrenching,

Dave

[Selden]

Unless abused, at 32K there should be lots of friction plate left, although spline condition seems to be a crapshoot with the 1150s.

 

Note that if you measure the friction plate thickness in situ (through the little gap behind the starter), I'm reasonably certain that the measurement will be on the low side. I got a measurement of 4.5mm (minimum acceptable thickness) that way, but when I actually pulled the clutch, my digital caliper measured 5mm, although at 97,000 miles, I wasn't about to put it back together to eke out a few thousand miles more.

[Stan Walker]

Note that if you measure the friction plate thickness in situ (through the little gap behind the starter), I'm reasonably certain that the measurement will be on the low side.

 

I had the same experience, the measurement taken in situ was 0.58mm (0.023") less than the measurement taken when the clutch was out of the bike. That difference represents about 33% of the expected clutch life. In my case at 70,000 miles it was the difference between needing a new clutch (67% worn) or still good to go with the old one (really only 33% worn). I didn't replace it. I still have a brand new friction disk sitting in my parts box waiting for the next time.

 

Stan

[BobW03]

Well the transmission is out and I am happy to report no damage to the splines The friction plate teeth were slightly worn and the seal at the rear of the transmission looked like it was slightly leaking. I brought the tranny to a shop In N.H and had them replace the seal.

They agreed everything else looked good but I replaced the friction plate since I was that far into the job. Rear end is all back together, now working on a major tune-up. Thanks for all the advice. Also I purchased the clutch alignment tool from Beemer Boneyard if anyone needs to borrow it for the cost of shipping.