cam chain tensioner removal

[PAS]

In this picture of an R1150R, a ratchet with extension and socket are used to remove the cam tensioner without touching the throttle body. Is this possible on the other oilheads that use a different trailing arm? If someone has their RT opened up take a look.

 

I cant remember where I found this picture a month or so ago

 

Bored in snowy Ohio

 

[jjg3]

On my R1100RT (disregard that mine is not nearly as clean as the other photo).

This is the new tensioner going in. I didn't think this through very well as I was doing it.

Taking the old one off, a ratchet without extension was used to break the torque.

The ratchet was lifted by the tensioner and was going to bind on the arm.

This particular ratchet had the reversing switch on the back of the head.

If allowed to continue it would have taken removal of the arm to get the the socket/ratchet off.

 

The new one going in was fairly simple. Just screwing it down by hand provided enough room for tools to be applied.

[roger 04 rt]

In this picture of an R1150R, a ratchet with extension and socket are used to remove the cam tensioner without touching the throttle body. Is this possible on the other oilheads that use a different trailing arm? If someone has their RT opened up take a look.

 

I cant remember where I found this picture a month or so ago

 

Bored in snowy Ohio

 

 

I was able to do it on my '04 RT but it took an integrated-universal low profile socket, an extension and another universal. By the time I figured it out I could have pulled the TB.

 

 

[PAS]

Is the new two piece unit supposed to be filled with oil before installation?

[dirtrider]

Afternoon PAS

 

No, it will fill as soon as the engine is started. If you try to completely fill it before installation you will have one devil of a time compressing it during the install.

 

 

[Alfred02]

Afternoon PAS

 

No, it will fill as soon as the engine is started. If you try to completely fill it before installation you will have one devil of a time compressing it during the install.

 

LOL

100% correct.

I did exactly that, filled it which made installation simply impossible as it couldn't be compressed anywhere near enough to get it in deep enough for the thread to start gripping.

 

Had to pull the bugger out and remove the oil.

Then it was a cinch.

[PAS]

Thanks for the info guys!

[dazzz]

Paul:

Quarter inch universal and a combination of different length wobbly extensions will do the trick. I have what you need and you're welcomed to them. We can work in my warm garage as I'm also bored in snowy Ohio.

Don

[ltljohn]

Paul:

Quarter inch universal and a combination of different length wobbly extensions will do the trick. I have what you need and you're welcomed to them. We can work in my warm garage as I'm also bored in snowy Ohio.

Don

Can you post a picture and list of what you used?

Thanks in advance.

[dazzz]

ltljohn:

Not really, because I don't remember the exact tools. BUT.....I have a quarter to three eigths adapter, two sets of wobbly extensions. Plus a cheap quarter inch universal. When we do Paul's we can take pictures and make a list. Also I have a set of wrenches that are bent at 90 degrees at the end. Only thing I do remember is that it was way easier than expected. I did slide the air tunnels back into the air box but the fuel injectors and carb bodies did not get touched. Don

[Nickster]

You will not be able to get the new one in with just the ratchet as in the photo. You will find the proper, somewhat more time consuming, method if you search the forum.

[PAS]

Sounds good to me Amigo!