Flushed my ABS system on the 1150 RTP and now brakes are stupid

February 7, 2012

(actually, it's probably ME that's stupid...)

Hello all, it's been a while since I've screwed something up and needed help.

Just completed a full flush of the brake system (police version of iABS, rear brake pedal not linked to front brake.) Everything was working perfect before I did this, but WOW was that brake fluid nasty! 'Course now I have clean nice fluid, but the brakes don't work so good.

Symptoms- Both ABS and Gen light flash quickly. Applying front brake seems to trigger the rear ABS (wheel brakes/releases/brakes/releases) and sometimes barely actuates the front brakes at all.

Rear brake pedal stops rear wheel, but also seems to brake/releases/brake/release.

There is a fairly good chance I didn't keep the fluid up all the way on the FRONT circuit. Could this be it?

Suggestions?

Thanks,

Don

'04 R1150 RT-P

February 7, 2012

Evening Don

Are the general & ABS lights flashing together or alternately?

If alternately that usually signifies low fluid level in one of the ABS controller master cylinders.

You did remove the gas tank & add fluid at the under tank ABS controller master cylinders when you did the wheel circuits didn't you?

If the integral master cylinders are full then maybe you have a loose connection to the reservoir internal float(s) or something like (your funnel) damaged a float.

Your problem sounds a bit like low fluid or air in the wheel circuit side of the ABS controller but that isn't cast in stone.

Otherwise you might need to get a GS-911 on the brake system to read the stored codes or get your dealer to read the stored codes.

February 7, 2012

Thanks Dirtrider. Yes, tank was off, and replaced fluid. But, suspect a glitch when I might have let the funnel run dry. I just rode it up the block again, and now there is no POWER brakes, and no ABS. I'm going to re-flush and make sure fluid stays up to the top, and then see what gives.

Now the ABS light is flashing, and the gen light is off.

Don

February 7, 2012

Don

I had a similar problem on my 04 RT. I went through the bleed procedure several times to no avail. Finally I realised it had to be an electrical problem. I had removed the multi-pin connector for better access while bleeding and when I re-attached it one of the pins had bent and not made contact. If yours has the same problem, CAREFULLLY bend the pin back straight and reconnect.

Hope this works for you.

Max

February 7, 2012

Thanks Max, I'll check and try that.

Don

February 7, 2012

OK, tried that, no help. Plug and pins seem to be perfect.

I "reflushed" the front circuit this morning. However, I had to hand pump the fluid thru, as NOW the power assist pump does not turn on. It was sounding kind of weak last night, and turned on intermittently. Have I completely screwed the pooch here?

Is there a fuse for the power assist pump, or is it integrated into the iABS unit?

I've disconnected the battery and walked away from the project for a bit...

Ayihhhhhhh!!

February 7, 2012

Afternoon Don

It would be nice to get the failure code(s) as that might point to low pump voltages or other power problems.

Without failure code(s) we can only guess based on past experience or possibilities.

Your lazy sounding pump might be the pump itself failing or maybe low voltage to the ABS controller (large diameter red wire going into the ABS controller on terminal 2 ) that power is taken from the rear of alternator. Or a poor ABS pump grounding (brown wire terminal 1 high current ground ) or brown wire terminal 28 low current ground. Try to check the large wire power voltage & ground circuit voltage drop with pump at least trying to run.

In any case, make sure the controller is full of fluid (in both reservoirs) as low fluid might cause a pump shut down.

February 8, 2012

Ordered the GS-911 this afternoon. SHould have better info by the weekend. Anyone near Lafayette CA want to buy 1/2 or 1/3 or 1/4 of a GS-911????

February 9, 2012

OK, the GS-911 arrived this afternoon. Installed it, and read fault codes from ABS:

Integral ABS

16772: Internal control module error - front control pressure sensor

The fault is not present now.

17026: Rear ABS sensor error

The fault is not present now.

17433: Pressure in rear wheel circuit to low

The fault is not present now.

17182: Pressure in front wheel circuit to high

The fault is not present now.

17918: Defective front brake switch

The fault is currently present.

And, magically, my ABS pump started whining away normatlly after I read the faults. I re-read the faults, an now the 17918 says it is NOT present.

Too late to fire up the bike and ride, but I will report in the morning.

Could reading the faults have changed anything? I DID NOT clear them.

Thanks,

Don

PS- WOW!! That GS-911 is really cool! The BeemerShop was great to deal with.

February 9, 2012

Must have been those wonderful instructions I sent you..

February 9, 2012

Morning Don

I'm not really sure what happened there.

If the GS-911 cycled the ABS controller during the testing it might have forced some air out a hydraulic circuit.

Also a brake switch sticking will drive those I-ABS systems crazy so maybe that was you issue. See if that switch sticks again.

Also keep in mind that a build up of crud in the master cylinder piston bore can prevent the piston for fully returning so if you cycled the hand lever farther than you usually do during the bleeding process the hand lever might not have returned fully to trip the switch.

Some of those pressure codes might be left over from your bleeding the system under electrical power.

Definitely (carefully) ride the bike to see how it acts.

Maybe find a dirt or gravel road & carefully force a low speed ABS event to cycle the ABS system a couple of times.

February 10, 2012

Hi again, this is starting to drive me crazy.

I checked the ground and power input to the pump, all seem just fine. The frustrating thing is, the problems are intermittent and constantly changing. This afternoon I worked on it again.

First, absolutely no action from the ABS pump. Just "residual" braking. But, the GS-911 showed NO fault codes. Then, the pump starting working for the front circuit, and fault codes started showing up. Below is a series of fault reading, all about 3 minutes apart. Between each reading, I'd start the bike. or pump the brakes, or just re-cycle. Sometimes the pump would turn on, other times NO pump at all. YIKES!! Below are the series of fault codes ("recyled" between each). BTW, my rear light seems to be working fine. Note the times:

Fault Codes Report

Time: 5:16:46 PM

16772: Internal control module error - front control pressure sensor

The fault is currently present.

17438: Pressure in rear wheel circuit to high

The fault is currently present.

17911: Defective rear light

The fault is currently present.

5:22:05 PM

16772: Internal control module error - front control pressure sensor

The fault is not present now.

17438: Pressure in rear wheel circuit to high

The fault is not present now.

17911: Defective rear light

The fault is currently present.

Time: 5:23:31 PM

16772: Internal control module error - front control pressure sensor

The fault is not present now.

17438: Pressure in rear wheel circuit to high

The fault is not present now.

17911: Defective rear light

The fault is not present now.

5:28:26 PM

16772: Internal control module error - front control pressure sensor

The fault is currently present.

17438: Pressure in rear wheel circuit to high

The fault is currently present.

17911: Defective rear light

The fault is not present now.

5:30:26 PM

16772: Internal control module error - front control pressure sensor

The fault is not present now.

17438: Pressure in rear wheel circuit to high

The fault is not present now.

17182: Pressure in front wheel circuit to high

The fault is currently present.

17911: Defective rear light

The fault is currently present.

February 10, 2012

The defective rear light fault would have me looking at a common connector that deals with both, the ABS and the rear light.

If you have used some kind of contact cleaner like WD40 or so on connectors, then they can cause tracking between pins.

You need to then blow out the connectors with compressed air to drive out the fluid.

Otherwise, use simple soft paper tissues to work them carefully into the connector to absorb the fluid.

Then leave some tissue in them and hanging upside down, so that the fluid will slowly seep out into the tissue.

First thing is of course to look for any bend pins during re-assembly.

February 10, 2012

Don, you could be describing exactly what I went through after I serviced the ABS etc. on my my '02 R1150RT. I ended up stripping the bike again and re-doing the brake service to no avail. I ended up giving it to my BMW trained service tech to sort out and he delivered the bad news. The ABS unit had crapped itself. I took a chance on an Ebay special for around $300 as I'd been give an Australian replacement price from BMW Australia for $4.4K I didn't think so... I had my tech install the used unit (it cost $220.00 for the tech) and it's worked just fine for the last 18 months. I had considered a full removal but I didn't want to lose the power brakes. Luckily, the replacement unit was from a later RTP bike so I lost the very grabby linked brakes which cursed the early 1150's.

I hope that you can fix your bike as easily as I did mine.

Linz

February 10, 2012

Morning Don

The faulty rear light part could be as simple as a TAIL light bulb burnt out. On the I-ABS system if a tail light bulb burns out the ABS controller brings a stop light bulb back on at partial power to act as a tail light bulb. This in no way should effect the ABS controller operation or set any other failure codes (except rear light). (remove the rear bulbs & VERIFY all the filaments are in good shape)

With all those random pressure high codes that kind of tells me you either still have some air in the internal circuits or the ABS controller has internal modulation issues or sticking valve issues. (OR you have a failed or failing ABS controller)

If I were working on that bike I would (first) verify that BOTH front & rear brake light switches are ALWAYS working & properly releasing (every time).

Then try to get it to momentarily work properly-- then ride it on a dirt or gravel road & see if I could get both front & rear to go into a low speed ABS event. If I could get the ABS to function I would do that a few times on each end. That should move any internally trapped air to the high spots & possibly move any trapped crud out of the control valve area.

If I could get it to ABS a few times then I would then do a re-bleed of the entire system.

Can you ALWAYS hear the ABS pump run at (key on)front lever or rear brake pedal apply?

Does the noise change as you apply more lever or pedal pressure?

Do you have power assist on every brake apply? Only some brake applies? From both lever and/or pedal apply?

February 10, 2012

Thanks D.R.! Really appreciate you staying with me on this. Your advice and questions are always excellent.

1) I swapped both rear bulbs last night. The old ones were "good" but the sensors must have seen a weak signal, and the ABS was turning on the Brake light to act as a Tail light. But, as you noted, this is a minor detail.

2) Both brake switches are working "perfectly". Verified by brake light actuation, and physical exam.

3)NO, the ABS pump doesn't always come on. In fact, it only came on once yesterday during my various trials. And when it did, it seemed to only "powered" the front brake (remember this is a RT-P and the rear brake is "un-linked" and DOES not actuate the front circuit, but the front brake DOES actuate the rear).

4) When the pump is working,YES the noise changes.

5) I only had brake assist when the pump was running on start up and on the front circuit.

Not sure I'm going to be able to try to cycle the ABS- skill and courage level might be too low.

In general, with all mechanical problems, I think "what did I do last?" and usually the solution is found there. What I did last was bleed ALL brake fluid circuits. Two possibilities are: a) I introduced air when filling the reservoirs in the ABS (I'm pretty sure I got the front brake and rear brake reservoirs "air free", and/or b) I used a needle to withdraw fluid from the two ABS reservoirs, and may have damaged something when I eased it in the filler holes **but I was very careful and gentle**.

All suggestions welcome. I'm taking the day off from motorcycle repair and going to ride my trouble free R100GS....

Thanks again,

Don

February 10, 2012

Afternoon Don

Just a thought & not sure it will even help but if you did somehow introduce excess air into the front wheel circuit you might have some air trapped behind the caliper pistons.

You might try using a screwdriver & prying the brake pads back to force the caliper pistons fully into their bores, then using little wedges (wood wedges or cedar shingle shims) work good for this, shim the brake pad to brake rotor to hold the pistons fully retracted.

Then try re-bleeding the front wheel circuit again.

The pump not always coming on usually points to the brake switches but if those are (for sure) functioning properly that next points to power or ground problems feeding the ABS controller & if that part is OK then points to the controller itself with internal issues.

February 10, 2012

Thanks again Dirt Rider,

I'm going to do a complete re-flush, I guess. The first time I used blocks to force all the caliper pistons to full retract.

Is the brake light turning on when lever or pedal are used, and then brake light turning off when released, an exact proof that the brake switches ARE working? Seems like, but I'm beginning to doubt everything.

Note that this bike was used by the CHP for 100K miles, and now by me for 20K miles. The bleed process certainly worked out those motors quite a bit. I'm beginning to fear its a cooked ABS unit, in which case this has just become a "parts bike"...

February 10, 2012

Sorry, one more thing. With the ABS and pumps not working at all, I still have "manual" brakes. Bike stops great, I just have to use lots more pressure on the lever and pedal. I've heard of folks completely removing the ABS pumps, and just having "normal" brakes. I guess I could do this...???

February 10, 2012

Hi Don, try to stick with it for a while longer.

To answer your second part, yes you can remove the ABS/Servo unit and save yourself some weight, also you get rid of the ABS function which is a real shame. However having peace of mind that your iABS wont just shut down on you (as mine did), is a real comfort. Also, the brakes work just as well as the did when they had servo back-up - amazingly with the same lever force as before for the front. The back brake is better as it is no where near as grabby as the Servo assisted item.

I have a photo walkthru if you eventually choose to take this path. Keep at for a while.

Andy

February 10, 2012

Afternoon Don

Yes, the brake light should be an indicator of the brake switches functioning.

Yes, you can remove the ABS controller. In fact that will give you a very nice feeling brake system (better feeling than the production wizzy system in my estimation). Other than by-pass lines/fittings & a bit of re-plumbing not big deal at all. The hardest part is your current brake switches work backwards to what you need. So you will either need to rig up a relay to use your present brake switches or install new (non ABS brake switches).

If you don't mind losing your ABS system I think you would really like the brakes after removing the ABS system.

February 10, 2012

Thanks Andy. Yes, it was you that I thought I remembered had done this. I will certainly stick with this for a bit, but might want your photo walkthru at some point. Like nearly all my (15+ BMW's so far), this is a "temporary" bike. I need another project since selling my R80ST, and am looking around for another oilhead. If I find one, I'll part this bike out, and save spares for the next project. So... I might need a temporary solution to this brake problem if I can't get the ABS unit working.

What about just leaving it as it sits, pulling the breaker so it doesn't come on line and surprise me, and using the braking function as "residual"? Besides not losing the weight, is there a danger with that path??

Off to buy more brake fluid for another uber flush...

February 10, 2012

Afternoon Don

The problem with leaving your ABS controller plumbed in is that you lose direct hand lever foot pedal pressure transfer to the wheel calipers. In a nut shell that means that a lot of your lever/pedal finesse is lost to the pressure transfer through the internal piston system.

What this basically means is you not only lose a lot of pressure transfer but also lose a lot of brake feedback feel. (not good way to ride around long term)

February 10, 2012

Thanks D.R.! That's sort of what I figured. I'm not really planning to go that route ('cept maybe as a brief experiment if I take the bike apart), but want to keep my options open.

You guys are a great help and resource. You can have first "dibs" on parts if I disassemble this beast!

Don

February 12, 2012

Hello all,

Spent another few hours trying to figure this out again today. Basically, it acts like there are no pumps in the ABS unit. I just have manual brakes. Rode it, checked faults. No Faults. Quick flushed the front and rear (just pumped some fluid thru, trying to get rid of any air- nothing. No pumps, no faults showing on the GS-911. Checked power to the unit, it's fine (and the brake lights and ABS warning relay get power and operate fine). Yesterday for a brief moment, I had power brakes at the front, now, nothing.

Is there a way to check the motors inside the ABS unit?

I'm about to give up...

Don

February 12, 2012

Evening Don

The I-ABS controller is very difficult to take apart make function again.

No failures codes Eh? If all power & grounds are intact that usually points to a bad controller.

What are your general & ABS lights showing at initial key on & after a short ride off?

February 12, 2012

Hi D.R., I'll check those and report tomorrow.

Spent the evening reading about ABSectomies. Think that's going to happen.

Andy- if you read this, I think I'd like your pictorial instructions for removing the ABS. The brake light relay is still confusing me...

Don

February 12, 2012

Hi D.R., I'll check those and report tomorrow.

Spent the evening reading about ABSectomies. Think that's going to happen.

Andy- if you read this, I think I'd like your pictorial instructions for removing the ABS. The brake light relay is still confusing me...

Don

Before you write off the iABS system which "was working perfectly" before bleeding the brakes, is it possible that a procedural error was made in the bleeding and this has caused the problem? Here is the procedure for Flushing and Bleeding the iABS Integral Brake System - might be worth a read through to see if you covered all the bases:

http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/service_abs3.pdf

February 12, 2012

Hello all, So, just re-checked the bike. ABS servo assist is still not there. Here's the sequence:

Key on:

NO FAULTS from ABS per GS-911

ABS- 4 htz

Gen- on

Several seconds later:

ABS- 4 htz

Gen- off

Engine Started, drive off, short (1 mile ride)

No change from above. Gen lite- off, ABS lite blinking at 4 htz.

Return- NO FAULTS from ABS per GS-911

Thoughts??

Don

BTW, The iABS flush procedure listed above (thanks for that) is exactly what I used when this whole thing started...

February 12, 2012

Afternoon Don

Well that Gen-off & ABS light flashing at 4 hz means residual ONLY in both front & rear brake circuits. Doesn't tell us much else.

With what you have said so far it sure sounds like your internal pumps are locked up or maybe something wrong with pump switching circuit inside the ABS controller.

If you are sure ALL your power & grounds are OK (even under load) & that the brake switches are functioning that leaves only a couple stones unturned before you can declare the controller is Kaput.

* First verify no residual pressure in the control side of the system. (basically crack a bleeder fitting on the control side & see if it is holding pressure. If the control side is pressurized at brake switch initiation it might screw up the controller logic. If pressure found it is probably due to a master cylinder piston not fully returning or a plugged take-up port hole.

* Next thing to try is to jumper BOTH controller reservoir fluid level sensors at the same time (they work in series so both need to be jumpered to assure the controller thinks the reservoirs are full.

Otherwise I just don't know what to tell you.

You can take your controller apart but if the pumps are the issue I haven't ever been able to repair those.

In any case don't throw your old controller out as someone will probably buy it from you to get the RT-P end body as that allows unlinked rear braking.

February 12, 2012

Here's a companion link to the iABS Flushing and Bleeding procedure previously posted above:

http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/abs3_filling_adapter.pdf

This links to an article mainly concerned with how to make a Filling Adapter for the iABS unit and Wooden Spacers for the calipers.

However, from the article (Section: How to Make Brake Caliper Spacers), it would appear it is vital that the caliper pistons are in the fully retracted position when filling the wheel reservoirs on the iABS unit. If this is not done the function of the iABS unit can be affected due to incorrect reservoir levels.

February 12, 2012

Afternoon Ced

The ABS controller will work just fine if the reservoirs are filled without holding the caliper pistons back.

The big reason for filling with the caliper pistons held back is so down the road when someone pushes the pistons back to install new brake pads it won't push fluid out of the vent hose all over everything under the bike.

If the pistons are not pushed back at filling time the ABS controller usually gets a bit over filled. That is not a big deal as the reservoirs are open vented to atmosphere so it just pushes the excess out of the controller & makes a mess.

February 12, 2012

Hey Ced, again, really appreciate your advice and links. Sadly, that is exactly the article I used last week to make the spacers. Have a really nice set if someone wants to borrow them.

As mentioned many posts ago, I suspect I let the front reservoir get too low during my bleed process ( the funnel may not have allowed enough flow). But since then I have re-flushed several times. And, there is no "whine" from either motor- even if they were "un primed" due to air, I'd think they'd spin and whine.

I'm going to try D.R.'s suggestion and uncork the control circuit, but since I've manually bled both front and rear by pumping the lever and pedal, I don't think this is going to solve it.

I'm not quite giving up yet, but here's what I suspect- The ABS and brakes didn't get flushed for too long (my bad). And now, when I did it, junk or gunk that sat there got pushed through the system. That, and the fact that these 120K motors got quite a workout the day I flushed, may have brought them to the end of their life.

In the back of my mind, I still wonder if there is a seperate secret fuse or CB JUST for the motors. I'm certain the ABS unit is getting power (brake lights work, fault codes get read), but the motors just aren't spinning. The CB that controls the ABS blinking light seems to be the only CB or fuse for the system- right?

Back to the bike...

February 12, 2012

Afternoon Don

On the Pump Motor Power. No fuse as the high amp pump power is that large diameter Red wire coming from the alternator big stud.

You really should check that large red wire for maintaining over 11 volts as the pumps are trying to run (key on brake lever pulled).

There is internal (inside the controller) switching for the pump motors so maybe the problem is there or something else internal.

One more thought-- That post from Ced got me thinking.

Make sure your controller vent lines are not plugged (there is probably a catch reservoir in the vent line system also. Just blow through the lines at the controller top & make sure they pass air without building pressure.

My thought is: IF the event lines are plugged maybe a pressure buildup in the reservoirs (a big long shot on this one though)

February 12, 2012

OK, next bit of data-

Vent lines aren't plugged (mostly I've been working on this with the caps off so I can see levels and level changes.

There is 12.1+ volts at the controller, even with key and lights on.

Next thing to try is to jumper BOTH controller reservoir fluid level sensors at the same time (they work in series so both need to be jumpered to assure the controller thinks the reservoirs are full.

I did that- but then got the alternating ABS/GEN lights- signaling LOW fluid. I think when the fluid is LOW it closes those circuits. Removing the jumpers made the lights go back to Gen-off, ABS- 4 htz.

And, checking the GS-911 after this exercise, it showed a fault of low fluid (not currently present). Cleared the fault, and now "No Faults"...

What now oh gurus???

February 12, 2012

Afternoon Don

Well, as they say, it ain't sounding too good for the future of your ABS controller.

I don't have much more for you as it sounds like you have tried all the first aid I can think of. With no current failure codes showing & the thing not working you are into the guessing game area now.

If you have the time maybe try removing the ABS controller then make up (file or grind) some tools to remove those Tri-Wing screws holding the controller together.

Otherwise it sure sounds like you might be in line for an ABS-

ectomy.

Before tearing it apart maybe wait a couple more days. Hopefully someone else will come along with a suggestion that will help solve the lack of pump operation.

February 12, 2012

Thanks D.R.,, I'm afraid you are right. I will wait a few days, but just because I'm sick of it right now.

BTW, here's a link to someone that pulled an ABS apart. Sounds like there aren't really replaceable parts in there, but...

http://www.i-bmw.com/showthread.php?t=15581

I think I'll go ride my "simple by choice" wonderful Airhead R100GS...

Again, really appreciate the help and support I've received.

Don

February 12, 2012

Afternoon Don

I just checked my service bulletins on the 1150 I-ABS systems & it looks like the rear pump shutdown at standstill was phased into the RT-P at some point after introduction into the GS. That could explain the rear pump not working at stand still but not the 4Hz flashing light & lack of pump run with front lever.

Before completely giving up maybe try a REAL battery charger (not a small output trickle charger) on the battery then with the key on pull the front brake lever. If by chance the pump comes hold the lever pulled for a while to allow the pump to circulate for a bit (again really stretching the envelope)

February 12, 2012

Ohhhh, I was so hoping.... Put my big old charger on it, set it to deliver 20 amps if necessary, and did as instructed. Nothing...

NOW I'm going to go ride the GS...

February 12, 2012

NOW I'm going to go ride the GS...

Evening Don

That's a great idea. Think nice thoughts while riding not ABS fudge.

February 12, 2012

Evening guys,

Here's one thing that may not have been covered - when you did the initial bleed Don did you unplug the iABS electrical connector to get at the bleed nipples?

If so, pull it off again and have a look at the male pins to see if any got bent when the connector was put back on.

February 12, 2012

Evening Ced

Actually Max covered that is about the 4th post this thread.

February 12, 2012

Evening DR,

OK thanks for pointing that out - nearly midnight here in Scotland - off to bed now!

February 13, 2012

Ced, thank you! It was mentioned earlier, but it was still a great suggestion.

And D.R., thank you for all the advice- jeez you know your stuff!

Here's my conclusion- the ABS unit is kapoot and has an internal electrical problem. I'm convinced it is getting power, or the brake lights and fault codes wouldn't work. I've reflushed enough to be convinced there is NOT air in the system. I pulled the little white filters at the top of the reservoir, and can see inside- the floats work, and the pistons at the bottom look fine, clean and move when the lever or pedal is pressed (and I have residual braking, so that was pretty obvious).

Either the motor or motors failed(are there two? in which case it's hard to imagine they both failed simultaneously, so>>>)or, the electronics that control them failed (this seems more likely, but I'm really guessing now).

So, I quit! I'm putting this project away until next weekend, and then starting an ABSectomy. Sounds like kind of fun project anyway, and I won't have that annoying brake fade when I go over a bump...

I'll start a new thread to get advice on removal of the ABS unit...

Again, I can't thank you guys enough!

Don

February 13, 2012

Don, I have a good spare ABS unit from an '04 RTP with 18,000 miles on it. I know that it's a good one. If you're interested, please feel free to PM me.

Cheers,

Linz

February 13, 2012

Don,

See this R1150 Wiring Diagram by Doug Raymond specifically Part 2 of 3 which covers the ABS Control Unit Wiring:

http://www.mac-pac.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/R1150RT_Elec_Diagram.pdf

From the diagram, the ABS Control Unit gets its +12v power from more than one source - if part of this power is 'lost' the brake lights and fault codes may still work but the pump/s could be down.

Like you I find it hard to believe that if there are two pumps both have failed at the same time - it looks like either an external or internal electrical issue.

Try the following:

1. Unplug the ABS Control Unit Connector.

2. Check it out carefully with a magnifying glass for the pin numbers which will be marked on one or both of the connectors. At the same time double check that there is not a bent pin or a pin which has become unlatched and been pushed into the holder. If you have to remove the cover to see the pin numbers, take the opportunity of giving each wire a slight tug to make sure it is properly crimped to its pin.

3. Check the following pins for +12v+ :

Pin 2 - Permanent 12v+ direct from the battery.

Pin 3 - 12v+ at Ignition 'On' only.

Pin 5 - 12v+ at Ignition 'Park' only.

4. Check the following pins for ground (-12v-) :

Pin 1 - Direct to ground.

Pin 28 - Direct to ground.

February 13, 2012

Here's the last thing I can think of:

If the previous post checks out OK, put it back together so that you still have access to the iABS Unit.

Start the bike on the mainstand. Operate the front brake lever halfway and tap the iABS unit body with a light hammer. Repeat for the rear brake.

If something is hung up mechanically it might free it off.

February 13, 2012

Morning Don

You only need to check pins number (1) & pin number(2)

Pin 2 - Permanent 12v+ direct from the battery --****this is the big RED pump power wire.

Pin 3 - 12v+ at Ignition 'On' only. (no brake lights & no GS-911 reading codes if this is not working)

Pin 5 - 12v+ at Ignition 'Park' only. (no tail/parking light if this one is not working)

4. Check the following pins for ground (-12v-) :

Pin 1 - Direct to ground.-- ******this is the big BROWN pump ground

Pin 28 - Direct to ground. (brake lights & dash failure lights won't work if this one is open)

February 13, 2012

Wow, you guys are takin' care of me!!! Really appreciate the continued effort.

This evening, I will check again the power. BUT... I know I have power (+) and ground(-) at Pins 2 and 1 (big red and brown wires)on the wiring harness ABS connector. And, I'm fairly certain the power is making it to the ABS unit pins, since I have brake lights, and GS-911 codes. And the dash failure light also works (wish it would shut up!)

Thanks Ced for the other suggestions, and I will take a careful look at that EXCELLENT wiring diagram. And since you suggested it, I will admit I already did the "tap tap tap" thing. I restrained by self, but it was tempting after 3.5 hours to not "tap tap tap" but "SMASH SMASH SMASH". That's when I went and rode my perfectly simple airhead ;~).

I have 3-4 days to continue thinking about this, and then I will rip that ABS POS out of this bike.

Don

February 13, 2012

Go ahead with the hammer...

you know you want to.

Ya never know.

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Flushed my ABS system on the 1150 RTP and now brakes are stupid

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