albury Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 Went looking for trouble today and wouldn't you know I found it... While changing final drive oil I noticed hairline cracks in the flange which rear wheel & brake rotor are bolted to. Probably due to my over enthusiastic torquing of back wheel. Need a new one... Beemer Boneyard doesn't have one... Any other used parts outlets? Repair seems straightforward enough once I get a bigger c-clip remover... Or am I wrong? Link to comment
dirtrider Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 Evening Albury Not rocket science but a little more involved than just the C clip. Once the C clip is removed you need to (evenly) heat it to 100°c or so then use a gear puller (or similar) to pull it (the flange) off. (You will probably need to find or make a stepped center for the hollow axle hub so the gear puller has something to push against) You need a cool final drive splined axle then heat the new flange to the same 100°c for it to slide on easily (no lubricant at all on the splines) Make sure the C clip is installed as it was with the same side out as it was originally (mark it before removal). If you get a new flange from BMW try to make sure it is the new improved one with the spacer included. Your flange breakage probably wasn't due to your wheel torquing as there have been quite a few of those failures so you might see if your dealer will do a (good will) warranty for you. Also be sure to file a complaint with NHTSA or your state attorney general. Link to comment
10ovr Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 Can you post some Pix,???I would like see what Im looking for,,,Thanks, Link to comment
dirtrider Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/DesertSkies/GS%20Junk/IMG_6529_800.jpg Link to comment
albury Posted February 2, 2012 Author Share Posted February 2, 2012 Exactly the kind of info I was looking for... Thanks. For heating it up... Torch? Hot air (paint stripper)? Tell it I slept with its sister? How bout clever tricks if I don't have the right size gear puller? Link to comment
albury Posted February 2, 2012 Author Share Posted February 2, 2012 My cracks are on the wheel lug holes. Thought I'de live with one till I got the new part, but noticed two are cracked. Hairline... Barely noticeable... Link to comment
dirtrider Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 Evening Albury On the removal heating --I have used both a high temp heat gun & a small flame torch both with good results. On the heating for re-install I put the flange in the oven for about 1/2 hour at 215°f as that heats it evenly. Work quickly once heated as it will cool quickly as it touches the splined axle. Should just push on when heated but have a lead hammer handy in case it sticks a bit. I have always use a gear puller & an aluminum stepped center I machined up to fit the axle. If I had to do it without a gear puller I would bolt something on the flange across the center hole then go in through the center of the hollow axle from the other side & drive the flange off (that is a bit hard on the axle bearings so it would be a last resort) Link to comment
albury Posted February 2, 2012 Author Share Posted February 2, 2012 As soon as I source a new flange I'll get on it... Thanks again for your help. Link to comment
w2ge Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 I loved my R1200RT.... till I read all these posts!!! ;-) Link to comment
albury Posted February 2, 2012 Author Share Posted February 2, 2012 Yea, well, my other bikes had their issues too... Of course they didn't cost 15 grand... All in all... Still love this bike... Link to comment
Bullitt Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 Went looking for trouble today and wouldn't you know... I did the same thing last night after seeing this thread: http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=751880#Post751880 At the present time mine doesn't have any cracks...now lets see if I can keep it that way! Link to comment
Guest Kakugo Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 If it's of any consolation BMW changed the part around 2008. Old parts number was 33117699631. New parts number is 33117722831. If you find a used part make sure it's from a 2008-2009 bike. Link to comment
Paul Mihalka Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 Also see: http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=751880#Post751880 Link to comment
smartin108 Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 What year is your bike? Do not assume you caused the problem! I had the same issue on an '05 GS. It was cracked on wheel lug holes and on the brake rotor holes. My dealer was able to get NA to replace it, including labor at no charge even though the bike was long out of warranty and I was not the original owner. Link to comment
hopz Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 A little bondo or JB Weld and it will buff right out... Link to comment
OoPEZoO Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 A little bondo or JB Weld and it will buff right out... Just like the cracks around the fuel pump flange Link to comment
Joe Frickin' Friday Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 Can you post some Pix,???I would like see what Im looking for,,,Thanks, Good pics at all three of these links, originally provided by Keith in one of the other threads on this subject: Link 1 Link 2 Link 3 Link to comment
marcopolo Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 If it's of any consolation BMW changed the part around 2008. Old parts number was 33117699631. New parts number is 33117722831. If you find a used part make sure it's from a 2008-2009 bike. Interesting. I just checked the online parts catalogue at Max BMW and they still show the "old" part number (...631) for the flange. That's for 2005-09 R1200RTs. I had my FD, including the flange, replaced under warranty in mid-2007, so I presumably have the "old" flange. That said, did the part number change for the RT's flange, or just for the GS flange (yes, I know they're the same drivetrain). Indeed, I see the same part number no matter which model year I select for the RT, including the 2010+ camheads. Link to comment
Selden Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 Those are alarming pictures, and I agree with D.R. that anyone experiencing this problem should file a Vehicle Safety Complaint with the NHTSA — this is potentially a life and death issue. Link to comment
Guest Kakugo Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 If it's of any consolation BMW changed the part around 2008. Old parts number was 33117699631. New parts number is 33117722831. If you find a used part make sure it's from a 2008-2009 bike. Interesting. I just checked the online parts catalogue at Max BMW and they still show the "old" part number (...631) for the flange. That's for 2005-09 R1200RTs. I had my FD, including the flange, replaced under warranty in mid-2007, so I presumably have the "old" flange. That said, did the part number change for the RT's flange, or just for the GS flange (yes, I know they're the same drivetrain). Indeed, I see the same part number no matter which model year I select for the RT, including the 2010+ camheads. 33117722831 is standard equipment on all Camhead models, plus the HP2 series and the K1300S/R/GT. It has superseded the old parts number for all Hexhead models and the K1200S/R/GT series. Link to comment
CoarsegoldKid Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 This is starting to crack me up. What next? Link to comment
Jaguar Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 I went to A&S cycles website to their fiche page to look up the part. The diagram indicates part number 13. Then down on the list, number 13 has been removed. http://www.ascycles.com/Illustrated_catalog2/MicroList.aspx?id=51556&catID=33&catname=Rear_axle,_rear-wheel_drive,_control&bindName=Right-angle_gearbox&bindCat=33_1224 Link to comment
FlyingFinn Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 This is starting to crack me up. What next? The front wheel has been 100% trouble free for me so far.... Link to comment
albury Posted February 3, 2012 Author Share Posted February 3, 2012 Yea I noticed that too... Very frustrating. Max BMW has the part pictured, and listed, but it's the older aluminum one... My bike's an 06 with embarasingly low 26k miles, and my research so far suggests this is mostly 04 - 07 problem. Mileage/ torquing unimportant ... The service guy here in Miami wasn't very helpfull ("call BMW")... I'll probably go ahead and order the parts and put it behind me... Any suggestions out there of a deserving dealer to order from? Link to comment
I812 Posted April 20, 2012 Share Posted April 20, 2012 Try Countryside. I heard they give a discount to 1st time buyers? Link to comment
lkchris Posted April 21, 2012 Share Posted April 21, 2012 If it's of any consolation BMW changed the part around 2008. Perhaps good to check with a magnet, as I understand the original part is aluminum and the new part is steel. On my 2008 (built 8/2007) a magnet doesn't stick ... and there are so far no cracks. Link to comment
Paul Mihalka Posted April 21, 2012 Share Posted April 21, 2012 Check my post and link early in this thread. The new flange is very different from the old. Link to comment
Beech Posted April 28, 2012 Share Posted April 28, 2012 When you want to chill the spline to put the flange on this Gum freeze product will take it to -70* or so. I also use it on the bearings when I do a front wheel. http://www.amazon.com/Zenex-ZenaFreez-Chewing-Gum-Remover/dp/B00404Y5CG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1335589336&sr=8-1 Link to comment
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