Autocom to BMW Radio - How?

[RT_Jim]

Setup:

2012 BMW R1200RT with factory BMW radio (AM, FM, SAT)

Autocom Super Pro AVI

Kenwood radio hooked to Autocom

Zumo 660 hooked to Autocom for GPS and phone

 

Question:

Best way to hook BMW radio to Autocom and not have built in speakers operating (if possible)

 

Options I’m aware of:

1.Use BMW plug (part ending in 584) to use ‘rear’ speakers and turn off front speakers

2.Use Autocom part 2273 (or 2275) to splice into front speakers

 

Looking for any and all help

 

Thanks!

 

Jim

 

[John Bentall]

Setup:

2012 BMW R1200RT with factory BMW radio (AM, FM, SAT)

Autocom Super Pro AVI

Kenwood radio hooked to Autocom

Zumo 660 hooked to Autocom for GPS and phone

 

Question:

Best way to hook BMW radio to Autocom and not have built in speakers operating (if possible)

 

Options I’m aware of:

1.Use BMW plug (part ending in 584) to use ‘rear’ speakers and turn off front speakers

2.Use Autocom part 2273 (or 2275) to splice into front speakers

 

Looking for any and all help

 

Thanks!

 

Jim

 

If you go for option 2 you will need part #2275. #2273 will not disable the speakers and the switch of part #2275 can easily be hidden if not required to toggle between bike speakers and Autocom.

The advantage of route 2 is that the radio does not have to be removed so that installation time & cost is less if the instal is being done "while-u-wait".

[RT_Jim]

John -

Thanks for the reply.

 

If I use the BMW plug, the connector is right up front (in front of the handlebars, where the GPS power tap is) so I wouldn't have to remove any panels, etc. to do this.

 

My semi-electrical mind (really, I'm a computer engineer) says its safer and better to use the plug than to 'tap into' the current feeds for the BMW speakers.

 

But that's why I'm asking the question - I see Autocom makes a 'tap' connector, why don't they offer (or suggest) use of the BMW plug? What is the downside?

 

Thanks!

 

Jim

 

 

[John Bentall]

Hi Jim,

 

The Autocom connector design has not changed for 15 years and pre-dates all the gimmickry on the latest RT's.

 

I would use the BMW connector in the headstock if you can.

 

HTH

 

John

[Lisa Malachowsky]

Since I'm the SW specialist for Autocom, I would recommend doing this with the Autocom part and Posi-products connectors.

http://www.posi-lock.com/

That's the way I recommend ding these installs. On a 2012 RT your radio is under the rear seat and is the new style, isn't it? Just like the K1600GT.

 

Lisa

Lisa@autcomdirect.com

[RT_Jim]

Lisa -

No, the radio is still in the glove box on the RT with the buttons on the left fairing and the new 'multi controller' on the left handlebar.

 

I understand that since you're the Autocom specialist, that is what you would recommend and I'm OK with that. But I'm wondering if there is a better way since BMW has updated the bike with the new connector/plug and maybe Autocom hasn't made a connector for that yet?

 

Thanks!

 

Jim

 

 

 

[John Bentall]

Jim,

 

I am a most ardent Autocom fan. I have had an Autocom Pro M1, Super Pro Avi and Super Pro Remote fitted to my RT machines over the past 11 years.

 

If I had a 2012 RT with factory radio I would use the "584" connector, solder a stereo socket to the bare wires and then run a stereo jack to jack cable to where the Autocom is mounted. Related threads have not mentioned the need for a ground loop isolator (GLI) in the circuit as far as I can make out. However if a GLI was needed, Lisa could supply one.

 

The rear fader method used to involve removal of the radio and therefore the Autocom #2275 method was a simpler install. Now that BMW have changed the wiring the "584" connector is just as easy, if not easier.

[Pletch]

I have a STARCOM 1 Digital system, and ran into the same question in tying it into the OEM entertainment. I opted for the plug in route. All in all it only took me about 90 minutes to remove the plastic and radio, fit the plug inserts into the rear speaker sockets and put it back together. I went this way for a couple reasons; it's weather proof, I can still use the speakers or combination of speakers and headset or just the headset, and this method still allows the "loud" setting on the OEM radio providing an output boost and clearer signal.

Finished product was completely invisible and put away for good.

Here is the thread that I used that outlines the pin locations for the rear speakers: http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Main=51430&Number=650979#Post650979

Dan

[Lisa Malachowsky]

If someone can get me the entire BMW PART NUMBER (as I couldn't find it), we'll marry our part to it.

 

Lisa

Lisa@autocomdirect.com

[Pletch]

I simply went to the BMW dealer and told them what I was doing and paid $2 for ten of the pin connectors and went from there.

[RT_Jim]

Lisa -

BMW part 83 30 0 413 584

 

Jim

 

 

[RT_Jim]

John -

Thanks - that helps.

 

I'll be putting a stereo jack on the end of the BMW plug and then running a cord back to the Autocom.

 

Jim

 

 

[Autocom Matt]

+1 for using the BMW plug, or wires from them.

 

I've installed on two RT's and both owners had me cut connector rather than wait for the part. Works fine. Just be sure to identify which is ground and correct speakers.

 

Set Line-out on radio and fade music back.

 

You can use a car stereo kit, but make sure to wire it properly.

 

The Car Stereo Isolation interface is a couple of 1:1 Transformers and with resistors in series. 1k ohm @ 5% to be precise. A 33 ohm resistor is put in parallel to load up the factory amp.

 

See transformer datasheet http://www.ibs-elec.com/ibs/cmpnts/prodguid/pdf/p3189.pdf.

 

Overall this device works well, for the intended use but it is decreasing response and adding some distortion. The sound is fine, but there is no free lunch with this configuration.

 

The isolation transformers are necessary to deal with ground loop issues, but it is a low cost component designed for voice and modem usage. Full range isolation transformers are huge and not suitable for a motorcycle.