Tony_K Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 Luckily I was in my driveway when this happened. 1100rt No whir to fuel pump. Ok tear into it. Fuse, relay remove- check- the usual stuff, no sound coming from the pump. NOW when I look at the RID my temp gauge indicator is peaked to the top. I disconnect the 4 pin to the pump and it drops down to half way bars. What is this? Where did this come from? Still no whir. I need direction. Point me somewhere so I can get my bearings. I discombobulated! Damn those electrical gremlins and their mischievous deeds! Link to comment
Tony_K Posted January 7, 2012 Author Share Posted January 7, 2012 Impeller works fine feeding power directly to the pump. So fuel pump issue is backwards from there... That and my nutty peaked temp gauge. Link to comment
Galactic Greyhound Posted January 8, 2012 Share Posted January 8, 2012 Luckily I was in my driveway when this happened. 1100rt No whir to fuel pump. Ok tear into it. Fuse, relay remove- check- the usual stuff, no sound coming from the pump. NOW when I look at the RID my temp gauge indicator is peaked to the top. I disconnect the 4 pin to the pump and it drops down to half way bars. What is this? Where did this come from? Still no whir. I need direction. Point me somewhere so I can get my bearings. I discombobulated! Damn those electrical gremlins and their mischievous deeds! Fuse No. 5 is blown! I noticed just the other day when doing a compression test and pulled Fuse 5 that when the ignition was switched on my RID Oil Temp showed 10 bars! Link to comment
Tony_K Posted January 8, 2012 Author Share Posted January 8, 2012 Fuse No. 5 is blown! I'll check them again but they have all been pulled and swapped a few times. Link to comment
dan cata Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 Your pump might still be not working when inside the tank, but just fine when tested outside. The thing is that the brushes inside it might be worn (how many miles on the bike?) and under load, not make enough contact to drive the rotor and deliver gas to the injectors So the proper way to test it is under load Dan Link to comment
Tony_K Posted January 9, 2012 Author Share Posted January 9, 2012 Didn't take the pump out. Fed 12v power into connector. Can't really test under load if it not getting power. I'm thinking it's not the pump at all but maybe? 130k on the clock. Link to comment
AndyS Posted January 10, 2012 Share Posted January 10, 2012 When you disconnect the fuel hose from the plastic pipes to the regulator manifold, then run the ignition; do you get substantial and continued flow out of the pipe (and hopefully into a suitably large container). What sort of flow rate (l/m) are you getting? Andy. Link to comment
Tony_K Posted January 12, 2012 Author Share Posted January 12, 2012 Yeah stepped away from the bike for a bit came back and found that I have been looking in the wrong place. I have no spark. So now it's probably HES... Link to comment
Galactic Greyhound Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 Yeah stepped away from the bike for a bit came back and found that I have been looking in the wrong place. I have no spark. So now it's probably HES... Have a look at this link re diagnosing and replacing the HES: http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/oilhead_hall_sensors.pdf My HES Trigger Unit failed last September on my '96 R1100RT shortly after I went carefully through a flooded road. Before jumpimg in and replacing the unit I first checked out all the other possibilities for the bike not running but eventually concluded that the HES Trigger Unit was seemingly the cause of the problem. I made the tester to test the hall sensors were working and they showed OK on the tester even under a heat gun but the bike would stll not run. The plugs sparked for about 2 seconds and then stopped sparking. I bit the bullet and bought a new HES Trigger Unit - fault cleared! I have come to the conclusion that testing the HES using the diode tester method does not fully prove that the HES is working and the only way to properly check it out is by fitting a known good replacement. Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.