Approaching 100,000 miles

[Selden]

I've never attempted to renew most of a wiring harness before. The parts where the rubber insulation has fallen away completely or is obviously rotten are pretty obvious: tape, then spiral wrap (or just tape)? What to do about areas where the rubber is in good shape? Cut it away, and rewrap, just tape over, or leave as is?

 

I found a nicely illustrated piece on rebuilding an auto wiring harness here: http://www.reganrotaryracing.com/fdwiring.htm

 

I anticipate a variety of perspectives from those of you who have restored vintage vehicles.

[Selden]

Foam bushings in the shift linkage?

#5 on plate 23-0763

 

http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51678&rnd=03252011

I didn't find evidence of this part when I removed the shift lever assembly. I wonder if it rotted and fell off sometime in the past 97,000 miles. It looks like a bushing in this location would serve to provide some seal against dirt, and that a small ring cut from rubber or vinyl tubing would suffice. I have some parts to pick up next week anyway, but if the dealer doesn't have the part in stock, I think I'll just fabricate something, rather than place a special order.

[jviss]

Foam bushings in the shift linkage?

#5 on plate 23-0763

 

http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51678&rnd=03252011

I didn't find evidence of this part when I removed the shift lever assembly. I wonder if it rotted and fell off sometime in the past 97,000 miles. It looks like a bushing in this location would serve to provide some seal against dirt, and that a small ring cut from rubber or vinyl tubing would suffice. I have some parts to pick up next week anyway, but if the dealer doesn't have the part in stock, I think I'll just fabricate something, rather than place a special order.

 

Just an FYI, while Jim directs you to the correct part, the fiche in the link is the wrong bike, an R1100S, with a different shift linkage than the 'RT. The correct plate is 23-0826, which can be found here:

 

R1100RT diagrams at Max BMW

 

In addition, I have heard that a worn bushing, #4 (x2) and #12, can make shifting tougher. I don't know which bushings to replace. I have the shifter off now, and the bushings have what seems like too much play, at 45,000 miles. If anyone knows which bushings to replace, please let me (us) know!

 

[tallman]

http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=738512&Searchpage=1&Main=66429&Words=bushings&Search=true#Post738512

[jviss]

http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=738512&Searchpage=1&Main=66429&Words=bushings&Search=true#Post738512

Thanks! I am ordering these parts today.

 

Also, I noticed this note:

05 07119901736 BALL PIN 0.02 1 $3.29

 

This is the earlier version ball pin. It has 6mm threads. Commonly known to fail. You can purchase this as a replacement or go with the 8mm ball pin and upgrade your shift lever to the improved later version. Note: Upgrade only applies to certain models.

Maybe I should carry a spare ball pin?

 

[ESokoloff]

I didn't find evidence of this part when I removed the shift lever assembly. I wonder if it rotted and fell off sometime in the past 97,000 miles. It looks like a bushing in this location would serve to provide some seal against dirt, and that a small ring cut from rubber or vinyl tubing would suffice...

 

I used a custom cut piece of Scotch-Brite pad.

Saved myself a whopping $1.20 (and a trip to the dealer).

[jviss]

I know this is a non-sequitor, so I apologize, but since I have the attention of a couple of gurus; based on this morning's thread I now have a cart full of parts at Max BMW, all at list price. Does anyone discount OEM parts (before I pull the checkout trigger)?

 

Thanks!

[ESokoloff]

[enfoman]

I know this is a non-sequitor, so I apologize, but since I have the attention of a couple of gurus; based on this morning's thread I now have a cart full of parts at Max BMW, all at list price. Does anyone discount OEM parts (before I pull the checkout trigger)?

 

Thanks!

 

Make the call and ask- can't hurt. Sometimes they will give you a 10% break on items if it adds up enough. I guess it depends on how much business they are getting in that day.

[Selden]

As for your choice on the canister, I ditched that a while back as I had no choice in the fitment of my rear Ohlins shock. The canister has to be ditched for that. I simply placed a Vacuum plug nipple over the open port.

Which open port — the vacuum port at the bottom of each throttle body?

 

 

The article from which this diagram came, Carbon Canister Removal, suggests that all hoses from the solenoid can be ditched, the vacuum ports on the bottoms of the throttle bodies capped (what would happen if they were linked?), and both hoses G and H left open and routed between the right side plate and the swingarm.

 

Hypothetically, assuming someone were contemplating violating federal law in this way, are these steps all correct?

[SinNH]

I know this is a non-sequitor, so I apologize, but since I have the attention of a couple of gurus; based on this morning's thread I now have a cart full of parts at Max BMW, all at list price. Does anyone discount OEM parts (before I pull the checkout trigger)?

 

Thanks!

 

Make the call and ask- can't hurt. Sometimes they will give you a 10% break on items if it adds up enough. I guess it depends on how much business they are getting in that day.

Boy I would like to know if you get a discount. I used Freeman's Cycle in MA for a couple of decades on a cash/discount basis with Rusty the parts manager---Rusty has been with Max's since the get go--no discounts--no cash/open accounts.

Still great to deal with.

Man do I yearn for the days of when motorcycle shops only had wrenches in the building, parts guy had grease under his nails--sales, same----I dislike motorcyle boutiques.

[jviss]

Chicago BMW Motorcycles used to discount BMW parts, 20% I think; but they are no longer in business. Maybe that's why!

 

 

[Jim Moore]

Yep, that's correct.

 

Some folks have linked them. I think most people just cap them off.

[AndyS]

http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51680

Drawing 23_0286 applies to the R1100RT.

 

The seal - item 6, just seals crud out of the ball joint.

A more useful check would be to see if you have any wear on the lever pivot and its bushes (items 4 (2 off) and item 12). if these are worn you can end up with a sloppy lever.

[jviss]

http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=51680

Drawing 23_0286 applies to the R1100RT.

 

The seal - item 6, just seals crud out of the ball joint.

A more useful check would be to see if you have any wear on the lever pivot and its bushes (items 4 (2 off) and item 12). if these are worn you can end up with a sloppy lever.

 

Thanks, I transposed numerals in my post on that, 23-0286 is it, indeed.

[Selden]

Rewrapping the wiring harness wasn't as tedious as I expected. I removed all the old rotted rubber that I could, then wrapped the wire bundles with Scotch 2242 Rubber Electrical Tape; pretty nice stuff, it is slightly tacky on one side, and stretches to about double its length, making a nice tight sheath. Then, depending on how thick the bundle was, and where it was running, I either wrapped it with spiral wrap, followed by Scotch Super 88 Vinyl Electrical Tape, or tape only. Vinyl tape ends secured with small black zip ties to prevent future unravelling.

 

Before

 

After

 

Brake lines arrived today, but the kit was missing one line.

 

Normally, my projects last (at least) twice as long as estimated, but this one is ahead of schedule, thanks to unseasonably warm weather. Except for the brakes, I should have everything back together tomorrow. Then I'll know if I have any missing or leftover parts, and if the thing actually starts.

 

Thanks to all who have pitched in with suggestions.

[Selden]

Re-assembly is going reasonably well, but I have one "mystery" connector for which I cannot find a mate:

 

 

This branches off the main harness with several others, just forward of the fuse box on the left side. It's a 3-prong female socket, and I have (so far) been unable to find a matching male plug. All other connectors are matched. I tried to take as many photos as possible before taking things apart (but never enough), and I think this is the same connector, which appears never to have had anything plugged into it. If so, what's it for?

 

[Alfred02]

I have got the same one on my 1150RT.

I think it's for the heated seat???

Mine is unused as well.

[AndyS]

If anyone can find out what this is for and where the controls for it are, I'd love to know.

I can't find it in my drawings. The colour codes look like:

Red/Yellow, White/black, Green/yellow? is that right?

Where exactly is this connector. I can't quite grasp its location from the picture.

Andy

[Selden]

If anyone can find out what this is for and where the controls for it are, I'd love to know.

I can't find it in my drawings. The colour codes look like:

Red/Yellow, White/black, Green/yellow? is that right?

Where exactly is this connector. I can't quite grasp its location from the picture.

Andy

The connector is on the left side, in the little triangle just behind the air box. I'm relieved to know that others have the same unused connector. I know there are some small unused connectors under the nose fairing, but I'm surprised to find such a big one in this location. You are correct about the color codes on the wires. Given its location, heated seat seems the most likely explanation.

 

At least I now know that I don't have to remove the subframe, airbox and fusebox to fish for a nonexistent plug — I spent enough time last night just staring at the thing, wondering what I had missed, before concluding "nothing." Without the photographic evidence, I probably would have tossed and turned in my sleep all night, disturbing my wife's sleep. I've already commandeered the table, and much of the rest of the space in the dining room, and half the garage — not to mention strange petrochemical smells in the kitchen when she comes home from work.

[snod]

I THINK it is for the RT/P side stand interlock kit. I no longer have the part number, but I have the kit on my 2000. I previously had it installed on my '97. I believe I bought the kit in '99? It allows the motor to stay running with the sidestand down, provided the transmission is in neutral, and the neutral switch isn't asleep. The kit is a "bunch" of wires, and an additional relay. I don't recall what plugs in where. If it is really important to somebody, I will try and draw a schematic of sorts when I tear down for my winter clean and tweak. (probably mid February) I suspect that some of the RT/P sites have this already figured out?

[dirtrider]

Morning Selden

 

That type of connector is a basic SENSOR connector & seldom if ever used on things other than Fueling Control or Motronic inputs.

 

That connecter you show is for the Co Pot (used on non 02 sensor/non cat converter equipped) 1100's.

 

On 1100's built with no 02 sensor, the correct (or lack of) CCP, & hopefully no cat to poison that connecter is plugged into a Co. Potentiometer that allows idle & just off-idle fueling mixture to be adjusted to control the idle Co. output.

 

[Selden]

Thanks for the confirmation, D.R.

 

Now I have an electrical gremlin. When the ignition is turned on, dashboard lights and indicators come on as expected, including neutral indicator, gear shift position, and the rest of the RID.

 

However, the check oil light is on (I don't remember if it's normally on until the engine is started), the turn signals don't work, and the clock is on only when 1) the ignition is on and the sides tand is up. About 2 seconds after I put the side stand down or turn the ignition off, the clock goes off.

[dirtrider]

Afternoon Selden

 

On the oil light? It should be on with key on engine not running.

 

On the clock & turn signals? Check the #3 fuse for power on BOTH SIDES with fuse in place . Also check that the wires to & from fuse #3 is not pulled loose from the bottom of the fuse cavity in the fuse box.

 

As a matter if fact check ALL fuses for power on both sides with fuses in place & key on.

 

[BFish]

Selden...pic of my unmated connector near the air filter box. Can't remember when i discovered it, but took a pic in case it ever came up. 2004RT.

 

 

[dirtrider]

Selden...pic of my unmated connector near the air filter box. Can't remember when i discovered it, but took a pic in case it ever came up. 2004RT.

 

 

Afternoon Brian

 

That looks more like a fuse holder than an unmated connector.

 

[Selden]

Afternoon Selden

 

On the oil light? It should be on with key on engine not running.

 

On the clock & turn signals? Check the #3 fuse for power on BOTH SIDES with fuse in place . Also check that the wires to & from fuse #3 is not pulled loose from the bottom of the fuse cavity in the fuse box.

 

As a matter if fact check ALL fuses for power on both sides with fuses in place & key on.

Brilliant deduction, Holmes. Based on the fuse box diagram, I had checked the #2 fuse (Tail light/Side light). #3 was blown, and I absolutely should have checked/reseated all the fuses and relays. I was pretty sure that the connectors were paired in ways that made it impossible to make a wrong connection.

 

Assume nothing. There is an old medical saying, "When you see hoof prints, don't look for zebras."

[Selden]

I hooked up the battery, then put the gas tank back on this afternoon, turned the ignition on, and hit the starter button. Umm, umm, pop; umm, umm, umm, pop, pop; umm, umm, pop, pop, pop, pop -- it works! Everything is downhill from here.

 

Thanks to all the suggestions over the past weeks. For someone who has never tackled this, in addition to the usual tools, buy 50 4" zip ties, 50 7.5" zip ties, a couple hundred q-tips, a hundred nitrile rubber gloves, a quart of 91% rubbing alcohol, a can of brake parts cleaner, and lots of paper towels.

[Paul Mihalka]

Great! Any statistics on the required beer supply?

[Selden]

Great! Any statistics on the required beer supply?

[enfoman]

Congrats! we all knew you could do it!

[BluegrassPicker]

IT'S BEAUTIFUL!

 

 

 

[Selden]

It's really, really finished. No leftover parts, no lost parts, other than a 4mm hex wrench that disappeared Wednesday, reappeared briefly around noon Thursday, and promptly disappeared again. I almost finished re-assembly at 6:30 last night, but dropped the left turn signal bulb after wiping it off, just prior to snapping the socket into the side mirror housing. This led to a wild goose chase this morning, trying to find a 1057 bulb at an auto parts store. I had previously replaced the lower tail light (5088), and tried using one of those since the base is the same, but 10 Watts was not enough of a load, and the signal light blinked at slightly faster than normal rate. After failing to find a single element bulb bayonet base with a 20 watt rating, I decided to try a 1073, which is rated for 23 Watts — it works.

 

It's raining today, and after 3 weeks of cleaning, I don' feel like getting the thing dirty yet — it's probably never going to look this good again!. I used the clutch to maneuver it around the garage, and I have to say that I'm amazed at how much smoother the clutch action is. I did not replace the clutch cable, only the clutch pack, but there is a very noticeable improvement.

I'm looking forward to seeing the odometer roll to 100,000 miles this year.

 

Before

 

 

After

 

 

Finally!

 

 

3056 miles to go

 

[Selden]

It finally stopped raining today, so I fired up my 1999 R1100RT for a test ride. Everything feels good, but the ABS isn't engaging. The ABS lights do the normal alternating sequence after start, but there is no "clank" as the ABS engages on forward motion, and the lights never stop blinking in the alternating pattern. The battery (Eversys) has been kept on a trickle charger, and the engine cranks easily.

 

History:

• Removed battery
  
• Removed ABS sensor from FD, and detached sensor plug connector
  
• Removed rear caliper, and supported it with a strap from the ceiling while the bike was split for clutch replacement
  
• There are four spacer shims: 0.5mm, 0.4mm, 0.1mm and 0.05mm
  
• Cleaned tip of ABS sensor
  
• Checked rear ABS sensor clearance during re-assembly; it was near maximum, so I removed the 0.1mm shim, and measured the gap: in spec.
  
• Brake lines were replaced, and bled successfully
  
• The ABS unit was not removed or disconnected during maintenance
  
• Neither the front wheel nor either front caliper was removed during maintenance
  

 

Diagnostic steps after discovery of the problem:

• Turn ignition off, restart warm engine
  
• Re-inserted 0.1mm shim; no change
  
• Removed both 0.1mm and 0.05mm shims; no change
  
• Re-inserted both 0.1mm and 0.05mm shims
  
• Detached and reconnected rear brake sensor plug connector; no change
  
• Removed and reseated blue ABS warning relay; no change
  

 

I'm out of ideas.

[Galactic Greyhound]

It finally stopped raining today, so I fired up my 1999 R1100RT for a test ride. Everything feels good, but the ABS isn't engaging. The ABS lights do the normal alternating sequence after start, but there is no "clank" as the ABS engages on forward motion, and the lights never stop blinking in the alternating pattern. The battery (Eversys) has been kept on a trickle charger, and the engine cranks easily....

 

Selden,

 

At Ignition 'On' (bike not started) the ABS lights should be flashing together, not alternating. Alternating lights at this stage indicates an Initial Test fault has been detected. When the bike is started the ABS lights should remain flashing together - if they then start flashing alternately it is likely a duff battery problem. At ride off, the ABS light should go out - if they then start flashing alternately it could be a wheel sensor fault.

 

The ABS lights will not go off if they flash alternately just after starting the bike (this is a duff battery problem) - you need to ride the bike a couple of miles to get the battery up to voltage then stop, switch off and try a restart. This type of fault does not lock into the ABS memory and does not need a reset action. It will clear when the duff battery is replaced or gets up to voltage with a charge.

 

The ABS Sensor/Rotor gap should be 0.5 - 0.55 mm.

 

There also may have been an ABS problem which is now cleared by changing the shims but the ABS will require to be reset (locked fault). See this link re ABS 2 faults and resetting using the flat 3-pin diagnostic connector:

 

http://www.largiader.com/abs/absfault.html

[dirtrider]

Evening Selden

 

First thing is to re-set the ABS.

 

If it still acts up then see if you can get a stored code out of the diagnostic connector. That might point you to the problem.

 

With you having the bike all apart you might not have power to the ABS relay (under the cover on the side of the ABS controller). Or something pulled loose at that relay. This is the high current power that actually runs the ABS motor for ABS test.

 

If you have a wheel sensor acting (or air gap problem) up that usually doesn't show up until after ride off so if your problem is before actual ride off then probably not the wheel sensors.

 

Added:

 

At key-on, the two ABS lights should flash together and should continue to do so until the ABS self-test is complete (doesn't happen until you start to ride the bike away), at that time they should go out..

 

If the self-test fails, they will begin to flash alternately. The exact moment when they start to flash alternately is usually when the problem appears..

 

If_ it happens before you start the engine it is usually a system that is tested at first power-up..

 

If_ it faults when you start the engine it is usually a low battery voltage problem..

 

If_ it faults when you ride away it could be the ABS controller or possibly a wheel speed sensor..

 

 

 

 

 

[Selden]

Ka-chang!

 

When in doubt, search the archives; I found this excellent ABS reset how-to by Twisty1 on 12/28/09: To Reset the ABS-2 System. The only difference is that his description says "The bottom ABS light will stay on, and the top one off." My experience was exactly the opposite, but the reset worked.

 

When I bought the RT 5 years ago, I was worried that something was wrong when I heard that "ka-chang" noise on starting forward motion, but I have come to love it.

[dirtrider]

 

Evening again Selden

 

Great news!

 

Hopefully that one re-set is all that is required. If it happens again then try to pay attention to exactly when it defaults. That can save a lot of guessing if you can pinpoint the exact moment it defaults.

 

[Selden]

ABS faults have never, ever been a problem for me on this bike, so I think this was just a side effect of the extended disassembly/reassembly process.

[dan cata]

Ka-chang!

 

When in doubt, search the archives; I found this excellent ABS reset how-to by Twisty1 on 12/28/09: To Reset the ABS-2 System. The only difference is that his description says "The bottom ABS light will stay on, and the top one off." My experience was exactly the opposite, but the reset worked.

 

When I bought the RT 5 years ago, I was worried that something was wrong when I heard that "ka-chang" noise on starting forward motion, but I have come to love it.

 

Could that be that someone owning the bike in the past switched the wires to the bulbs?

 

Dan.

[roger 04 rt]

ABS faults have never, ever been a problem for me on this bike, so I think this was just a side effect of the extended disassembly/reassembly process.

 

Nice looking bike! And very interesting read all the way through. I'm thinking of leaving the FD, driveshaft and transmission connected when I lube the splines on my 'RT. It looks like you slid it back on the carpet, how much would you say the whole assembly weighs?

 

RB

 

[dirtrider]

Afternoon Roger

 

On the 1150RTs that have enough mileage to worry about spline lubrication & wear (basically more of an inspection) you should probably go the full route as long as you already have it mostly apart & check the swing arm tapered bearings & clutch slave cylinder.

 

The 1150s have a hydraulic clutch slave cylinder that are known for seeping fluid & also for rust build up in the front of the bearing area. Be a shame to go to all the trouble of taking it apart to inspect the input & clutch disk splines then have a leaking slave cylinder take the clutch out shortly after re-assembly.

 

Same with the swing arm bearings, those are noted for being kind of shy of grease & brinelling, so if you catch them early enough you can just re-grease them & not have to replace them.

 

[Selden]

,Nice looking bike! And very interesting read all the way through. I'm thinking of leaving the FD, driveshaft and transmission connected when I lube the splines on my 'RT. It looks like you slid it back on the carpet, how much would you say the whole assembly weighs?

I never had to lift it, so I have no idea how much the transmission/swingarm assembly weighs. However, as a guess, I would say far more than I would want to lift in that position, especially given risk of bending the clutch rod.

 

I used a carpet-covered dolly that I built decades ago, made a support cradle from a bunch of scrap lumber and shims, then strapped the combined swingarm/transmission assembly solidly to the dolly with ratcheting tie down straps. The whole assembly just slid back with minimal displacement. For re-assembly, I used a small bottle jack to fine-tune height/alignment as I brought things slowly back together. The most difficult part was not lining up the transmission with the engine, but rather aligning the input splines with the clutch disk.

 

Others can write about this from experience, but I suspect that you could lube the splines by removing the left fairing panel, left side plate, and the starter, then use a strap to tie the clutch lever back to the handgrip (this will expose fractionally more of the splines, as well as free up the friction plate). Then, using a long swab, dab some moly paste on the splines, rotate the rear wheel a bit, repeat until finished. I'm not sure how much you can tell about spline wear with this approach, but if you have relatively low miles, and suspect no problems, it sure beats the tedium of tearing everything apart — shouldn't take more than an hour.

[roger 04 rt]

When I cleaned and lubed the starter a couple months ago I had a look but was probably not looking closely enough. The bike is now 8 years old but only 25K miles. I can't decide whether it is time or miles that should govern the decision. What do you guys think?

[dirtrider]

Afternoon Roger

 

If you break it down into the basics it would have to be miles or more appropriately running hours.

 

Seeing it is a "wear" issue that means that it is a dynamic condition so it must be in operation to wear.

 

Your 04 RT is after the peak problem years of around 2002-2003 so that is in your favor.

 

A lot of the worst of the 1150RTs that showed wear or total spline failure showed up in the low 20,000 to 30,000 mile range so your present 25,000 miles would be a perfect point to inspect the splines. At 25K you should be able to get a real good idea of how bad (or good) your trans to engine alignment is by the amount of spline wear.

 

[roger 04 rt]

Afternoon Roger

 

If you break it down into the basics it would have to be miles or more appropriately running hours.

 

Seeing it is a "wear" issue that means that it is a dynamic condition so it must be in operation to wear.

 

Your 04 RT is after the peak problem years of around 2002-2003 so that is in your favor.

 

A lot of the worst of the 1150RTs that showed wear or total spline failure showed up in the low 20,000 to 30,000 mile range so your present 25,000 miles would be a perfect point to inspect the splines. At 25K you should be able to get a real good idea of how bad (or good) your trans to engine alignment is by the amount of spline wear.

 

Sounds like it's time to have a look, thanks dr.

[Jim Moore]

Sounds like it's time to have a look, thanks dr.

 

Here's a simpler idea if you don't feel like splitting the bike in half.

 

"Some people like the idea of lubing their splines because they like to look at them and check their health. It's not a bad idea, but there is a much simpler way. Pull your starter. Tie your clutch lever to the handlebar. Find the edge of the clutch disc and the input shaft in the starter hole. Use a screwdriver to turn the clutch disc. The input shaft should turn at the same time. If you have significant play between the clutch dics and the input shaft (I had over a quarter inch measured at the edge of the disc) you have a problem. If the disc and shaft turn in unison, you're good-to-go. It takes 10 minutes."

 

[azccj]

I know this is a non-sequitor, so I apologize, but since I have the attention of a couple of gurus; based on this morning's thread I now have a cart full of parts at Max BMW, all at list price. Does anyone discount OEM parts (before I pull the checkout trigger)?

 

Thanks!

www.chicagomotorrad.com

 

I just ordered a new clutch for my RT from these guys, it should be here on Friday. I've used them in the past and so far everything I've ordered has been in stock and shipped very quickly. They also offer a 15% discount if you enter "PROMO15" at checkout. I only discovered this outfit after I bought something from them off ebay. The PROMO15 coupon was in the box when the part arrived. So far I have no complaints. My RT is currently in my garage with it's tail in the air. I removed the transmission, swing-arm and rear drive as a unit, I was surprised how lite the whole assembly was. My splines have just slight wear at 33,000 miles. The clutch disk was worse off than the input shaft but I'm sure both would have lasted many more miles before they would have failed. My plan is to install the new clutch disk with new bolts, and then split the bike again in 35,000 miles. If the input shaft has worn significantly more at that point, I'll replace the input shaft at that time. Something I found surprising after having the clutch disk exposed, was how thin and flexible the metal part of the clutch disk is. I also discovered fluid in the clutch slave cylinder cavity but no fluid on the clutch rod. The fluid smells like gear oil but isn't slick like gear oil. I ordered a new slave cylinder from our pal at beemerboneyard and I already have a new seal on hand to replace the possible leaking one. Ohhh I'm going to have fun this coming weekend. I might also drill a hole in the slave cylinder cavity to prevent possible clutch contamination in the future.

[roger 04 rt]

Here's a simpler idea if you don't feel like splitting the bike in half.

 

"Some people like the idea of lubing their splines because they like to look at them and check their health. It's not a bad idea, but there is a much simpler way. Pull your starter. Tie your clutch lever to the handlebar. Find the edge of the clutch disc and the input shaft in the starter hole. Use a screwdriver to turn the clutch disc. The input shaft should turn at the same time. If you have significant play between the clutch dics and the input shaft (I had over a quarter inch measured at the edge of the disc) you have a problem. If the disc and shaft turn in unison, you're good-to-go. It takes 10 minutes."

 

I had the starter out a few months ago and wasn't careful enough with the observations of the clutch and shaft. I've got some more work to do on my O2 sensor project and may have the bike opened up again. If I do I will look carefully this time.

 

I guess the 10 minute estimate is after I have the fairings off, the left peg assembly rotated out of the way, and the starter out.

[Jim Moore]

I guess the 10 minute estimate is after I have the fairings off, the left peg assembly rotated out of the way, and the starter out.

 

Ten minutes on a GS. Maybe a little longer on your bike.