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RT idle/throttle problem


jsmith

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I have a strange problem. Some might say I have several, but only one that applies to this forum. :) Here goes:

 

I have a 2006 R1200RT with 60,000 miles (100,000kms), owned since new, and all service done by the dealer with the exception of some oil changes. 2 years ago, when the bike was 4 years old and with ~40,000 miles, it started to have an intermittent stalling problem. I have had the dealer look at it twice, and the only conclusion has been, "we can't reproduce it, or find anything wrong, but happy to keep spending your money if you want". This only happens when the bike is thoroughly warmed up, and does not always happen. While I am riding, there is no sign of an issue. Good response, good power. I pull to a stop, release the throttle, and the bike idles very low and rough, then cuts out. I start it back up, which can take 2-3 tries, and it will only stay running if i give it some throttle. Doesn't take much, just enough to get the idle up and its fine. Once this happens, I can never completely let off the throttle, or it will stall. This makes for extremely hairy riding in traffic. If I stop the bike and let it sit for a bit, the problem will usually go away until the bike is thoroughly warmed up again. As an example, last summer I rode from Toronto to the Redmond rally. I had no problems at all for the first 10 days, then I had the problem every day, usually starting mid-late morning, and continuing until I stopped for the day. After 4-5 days, it went away. It feels exactly as though the idle just needs to be increased a bit, but I am told there is no such thing on the RT. Its all handled by the software. I have read some posts about people with similar problems, but none sound quite like this. Any thoughts, or do I use this as an excuse to get a new GS?

 

Jim

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Time to take a look at your spark plugs and, more importantly, your stick coils.

 

Do a complete and thorough check of your cables and run down in to your Boudin box to make sure all is as it should be there. Worn cables, linkage, etc.

 

Check your throttle body union joints. You may have an air leak at one or more of the joints that manifests itself periodically.

 

Valve adjustments good? Spark plugs snug? Fuel pressure? Electrical connections around the coils, fuel pump, etc. good?

 

Try doing a TPS reset. Disconnect your battery, wait for a couple minutes, reconnect battery, turn ignition on, do not start, rotate throttle slowly and smoothly all the way from idle to full throttle three times with a momentary pause in between each, turn key off, wait for system to shut down fully (ZFE/CANBus), turn key back on, start without touching throttle.

 

What else?

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It shouldn't take that much of an excuse to go and get a new GS. If you want a new GS, go and get it.

As to the idle issue, I think the above suggestions are a good starting place. Then look at fuel pressure. Some type of intermittent fuel line leak, that just drops pressure a bit.

dc

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Here are the suggestions so far, and what I've done:

 

Spark plugs: Been through several sets, no change

Stick coils: Don't know what this is

Cables: I have looked and so has the dealer. All seems ok.

Throttle body union joints: Don't know what this is

Valve adjustments: Been through several, no change

Fuel pressure: How would I test this?

Electrical connections: I have looked and so has the dealer. All seems ok.

Throttle reset: Done, no change

 

I've also done a stepper motor rest using the GS-911...no change

 

 

Jim

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The stick coils are what provide the electricity to your spark plugs. The are the coil in the shape of a stick. They are what plugs into your spark plugs and have the electrical connection on them. They are known to sometimes breakdown over time and/or develop a crack in them that, when heated, causes them to fail. Though this is not typically manifested in the fashion of your complaint it is worthy to check them out thoroughly for any cracks or defects that may be present. A spray bottle with water can sometimes find the fault as this water causes the coil to ground out, thereby, eliminating spark. This water has nothing to do, necessarily, with the failure. It is just a tool to help isolate a problem. The heat could be what causes the failure, if this makes sense.

 

The throttle body union joints are the rubber boots that are located between the throttle body and motor. If there is a leak at the joint on either the motor side or throttle body side you could be causing an over lean condition that causes your bike to stall.

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Afternoon Jim

 

While a faulty stick coil could cause a stalling issue they usually act worse under engine load. You say it runs good at road load / road speed so that puts a faulty stick coil way down the list.

 

Same with a fuel pump controller, those usually act up under engine load first or at least act up while riding as well as at idle.

 

Personally I would put a problematic 02 sensor near the top of the list but if your dealer couldn't find a trouble code stored that sort of eliminates the 02 sensors. If the dealer didn't check for stored failure codes then it's possible you have an 02 sensor acting up. If you suspect a problematic 02 sensor then just disconnect both sides & ride the bike for a while. If the stalling quits then look into a failing 02 sensor or problems with the 02 wires in the 02 connectors.

 

Next on my list would be one of your idle air stepper motors getting lost. That usually won't store an error code as the fueling computer still thinks it knows where the stepper count is at. (That is why it stalls).

If you can get a decent hot engine idle then simply disconnect both stepper motors while the engine is idling good. Then ride the bike for a while. If the stalling quits then look into a failing stepper motor that is getting lost.

 

My money is on a failing stepper motor but that is going to be difficult to confirm & difficult to confirm which one. Maybe try swapping known good on into one side then try the other side.

 

 

Added: should have mentioned the every new engine start allows the steppers to send the pintle home & re-establish zero. Steppers getting lost very seldom happen on a short ride as they only lose a step or two so not enough to cause an engine stall. Lost steppers usually happen more often on longer rides without shutting the engine off. So if your problem seems to be more prevalent on longer rides with no engine re-start the that points even more to a lost stepper.

 

Another thing to look for stepper failure wise is: AFTER the stall, if you key-off for few seconds then do a full re-start allowing full computer cycle after key on before start it shouldn't stall again for a long while. (you can sort of use this for a stepper test)

 

Edited by dirtrider
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Jim, you have my sympathy, but I'm afraid I can't help much.

I too have a 2006 RT with an intermittent cut out when hot (usually over 150 miles) and slowing to a stop, or turn.

Unlike your bike, though, mine usually restarts with a prod of the starter, and runs normally for miles before cutting out again.

I've tried all the suggestions you have to no avail, and am veering more and more towards a software issue.

I also swapped out both O2 sensors and fuel pump controller, again with no joy.

I've never had any sort of indication of a fault on my GS-911, neither has the dealer when it's been in.

Off topic slightly, I received a recall recently from Honda for my SH300i, for a new ecu and software for exactly the same symptoms

even though I hadn't experienced any problems.

 

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Afternoon Lan

 

If your stalling only shows up after "over 150 miles" then see the (Added) in the post above.

 

Unfortunately the stepper control system BMW uses on their motorcycles has no ACTUAL step feedback to the fueling computer so the only way the fueling computer knows where the steppers are is from where it THINKS they were. The fueling computer only knows for sure where they are/were (is) right after an engine start. From then until another engine start it is just adding or subtracting counts based on that initial zeroing.

SO, once they lose a few counts in long term operation the fueling computer is thinking it is setting the return-to-idle stepper count to something like 24 counts but in reality it could only be 15 actual counts.

 

Unfortunately your GS-911 usually won't show the stepper issue as it only reports the fueling computer command info not the ACTUAL step count at the pintle as there is no direct pintle position feedback.

 

 

If your stalling problem only shows up after 150 miles but not again after restart then maybe try riding a 150 trip with the steppers disconnected.

 

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Will preface by saying that although I've owned two RTs for a total of 320K miles, I've not had the pleasure of working on this type of issue.

 

If the throttle cables are holding one or both of the throttle plates open just a tad when the engine is warmed up, and if the idle speed control stepper motor wants a lower idle speed, it will attempt to close the throttles against the cables, which it cannot do. This conflict could be affected by engine temp, handlebar position and maybe other factors, but results in a unstable idle condition and perhaps stalling.

 

I'd begin by checking to be sure there's at least some throttle cable slack (on the opening cable) at all steering angles.

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Evening Yellowknife

 

You must be thinking of a different idle control system such as the old stepper controlled throttle stop type carb systems.

 

The BMW 1200's use a stepper controlled pintle that opens & closes an air by-pass port in each TB unit. The stepper in no way ever tries to open or close the throttle plate or move it against a throttle cable. In fact the steppers have absolutely no connection to the throttle plates, or the cables.

 

Think of the BMW stepper control as a little motor opening & closing the old BBS screws as that is real close to how it operates.

 

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D.R., if we ever meet I will happily buy you a drink of your choice. I learn something new or gain a new perspective almost every time you discuss a problem.

Thanks for all your contributions to keeping our bikes on the road.

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Thanks Dirtrider

 

Personally I would put a problematic 02 sensor near the top of the list but if your dealer couldn't find a trouble code stored that sort of eliminates the 02 sensors. If the dealer didn't check for stored failure codes then it's possible you have an 02 sensor acting up. If you suspect a problematic 02 sensor then just disconnect both sides & ride the bike for a while. If the stalling quits then look into a failing 02 sensor or problems with the 02 wires in the 02 connectors.

I have a GS-911 and have never seen any O2 sensor faults, but then I'm not sure this is stored or if the GS-911 can read it. I will try to capture real-time values and see if there is anything strange happening here.

 

 

Another thing to look for stepper failure wise is: AFTER the stall, if you key-off for few seconds then do a full re-start allowing full computer cycle after key on before start it shouldn't stall again for a long while. (you can sort of use this for a stepper test)

Is this true for an '06? I have heard of some RTs having stepper motor problems, typically because grit or something prevents a step, and this just accumulates over time as the position it IS in and the position the engine THINKS its in become further apart. I used the GS-911 to reset the stepper motors to zero, and the problem went away for a while, but because of the periodic nature of the problem, I don't know if this solved the problem temporarily or not.

 

Jim

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Ian, the sympathy goes both ways. Your problem sounds too similar to mine not to be the same thing, not to mention the same year and model bike. I'll let you know if/when I wrestle this one down. Thanks for helping out!

 

Jim

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DR, sorry if this sounds like a dumb question.

I get the disconnect the idle steppers to see if the problem goes away.

The dumb bit is, would only having one stepper connected cause problems?

I assume that it would (like a faulty one, on one side), but I was hoping for a 'cheap' way

of finding out which, if any, side was faulty.

Looking on the microfiche they don't appear to be listed as 'sided' so IF disconnection points to

a stepper fault, a new one swapped from side to side should resolve the issue.

I only say IF, because jabbing the starter whilst rolling, without cycling the ignition also makes my problem

disappear for a while.

Sorry to hijack the thread Jim, but as you say it does seem to be a very similar issue, and hopefully another line of thought,

albeit perhaps less technical than others, may give more insight.

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Morning Lan

 

Problem with only disconnecting one side is there is always the chance the other side is causing the stall. You really want BOTH sides working correctly or none working. If only one working correctly then disconnect them both to have it even side to side.

 

" I only say IF, because jabbing the starter whilst rolling, without cycling the ignition also makes my problem disappear for a while. "----

Re-starting the engine should re-set the steppers if done from a key-off position. Dong a rolling re-start without shutting the key off might also but that I can't say that for sure. I know that shutting the key off does so that is recommended.

 

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----Is this true for an '06? I have heard of some RTs having stepper motor problems, typically because grit or something prevents a step, and this just accumulates over time as the position it IS in and the position the engine THINKS its in become further apart. I used the GS-911 to reset the stepper motors to zero, and the problem went away for a while, but because of the periodic nature of the problem, I don't know if this solved the problem temporarily or not.

 

 

 

Morning Jim

 

A few things can cause stepper issues.

 

_First is coking of the pintel seat area causing the pintle to not go completely home on first key on stepper reset. If your system is operating correctly the steppers ALWAYS re-zero themselves at each new key on start. No need to do a GS-911 stepper reset unless you want to do a dynamic stepper re-set on a running engine without turning the engine off.

 

_OR, Dirt in the stepper pintle threads can cause issues but that is usually just a stuck pintle & a stuck pintle causes as many high idles as stalls . A stuck pintle also usually causes cold start stalls as the pintle can't advance to cold start position.

 

 

_By far the most common stepper failure is worn pintle threads or worn internal threads in the stepper armature. What this causes is the stepper getting lost as the stepper pintle tries to continually follow the throttled movement action. Due to the loose thread engagement the stepper usually loses a step every so often until the ACTUAL step count is WAY lower than the fueling computer thinks it is. A worn pintle or armature engagment usually causes stalling after the bike is ridden at speed for a while then the throttle is suddenly closed for a stop or slow down.

 

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Morning D.R.

Thanks for that response.

That was partly my thinking. If I disconnect one of the stepers and the problem continues,

but with the other disconnected it goes away, I've isolated the faulty motor.

Fron the most common causes you mention, I'll get them off and stripped to look for wear, grit etc, first and go from there.

After all if it doesn't show until 150 or more miles, that's a lot of petrol to burn, just to check if something has made a difference.

I'll keep you, and especially Jim updated on anything I find / resolve.

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Thanks again, DR. Just one thing I'd like to clarify. I was told that the '06 RT never re-zero's the stepper, hence the reason I used the GS-911 to do it. You are saying that this happens on every complete re-start. So 2 questions:

 

1. Are you sure the '06 RT does re-zero? I don't know how I could check.

2. If yes, I wonder if there is a difference in the way the bike and GS-911 do it. I think Stephan (Hexcode) says the GS-911 forces the stepper to zero several times to make sure it gets there.

 

I appreciate your help, just want to be clear before I start taking parts off, but it feels like we're getting to the root of the problem.

 

Jim

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Morning again Lan

 

That would be a good place to start.

 

Just a caution though: be careful to NEVER turn the key on with the steppers plugged in but removed from the TB's. If you do you will hate yourself for the next few hours as you attempt to get the pintle back into the stepper housing.

 

Also it is very difficult to visually find a stepper that gets lost by simple observation as they usually appear normal & the pintle will seem to be a decent fit. The problem is usually the pintle to armature threads get just loose enough in one spot to skip a step due to movement while exposed to engine vibration.

 

You might be farther ahead to put your GS-911 on the bike after every ride of more then a few miles (before any engine stall or engine re-start though). If you find one side with a significantly higher count than the other that side is probably the one that is getting lost. If the fueling computer can catch the lost stepper BEFORE engine stall in some cases it will be able to react in time & add enough base idle counts to keep the engine running. (that will show as a higher COMMANDED stepper count.

 

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Would a faulty or failing engine temp sensor cause this? If the engine things it's colder than it actually is, then bungs in more fuel to compensate, would this choke the engine and cause a stall?

I mention as in the first post the OP mentions he has to turn the motor over a few times to get it to fire up again and keep the throttle pen to keep it running?

Easy to swap out for a new one.

Just my 0.2ukp

hth

\v/

Edited by Hall Vince
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Morning Vince Hall

 

When it comes to engine stalling about anything is possible including engine sensors. His stall at idle after riding doesn't sound like an engine temp sensor but nothing is impossible.

 

You would think that a faulty engine temp sensor (either oil or cylinder head) would cause other runability problems while riding way before the engine RPM is lowered or is idled. Both sensors should also show up on the GS-911 data.

You would also think that once acting up it would do so more regularly than only for "one" idle sequence after a ride at speed.

 

Usually when an engine sensor like the engine temp starts acting up you get across the board runability problems, very high engine idle, very poor cold starting, slow gradual dying of the engine at idle not instant dying as the throttle is dropped.

 

On the part about ---"OP mentions he has to turn the motor over a few times to get it to fire up again and keep the throttle open to keep it running".--- That is a classic example of a lost stepper, if the stepper was lost enough to cause the stall it probably is lost enough to prevent enough air for restart (unless the throttle is held open to allow more air flow).

 

 

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It sounds like you know what your talking about & I bow to you knowledge. I do like to read about these problems and solutions, mentally storing then away in case a times comes when I may one.

Do these steppers go out often? I`ve put 50,000 of the 55,000 miles that's on my 57rt two starts a day, every day most weeks. Not heard of many worn out steppers tho, which must be good?

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Hall Vince,

I'm suffering with a similar (but only slightly different) issue.

No problem restarting mine after a stall, and I recently tried adding a 'spoofer' to the air temp sensor.

I was hoping the increase in fuel, by inducing a lower temperature in the incoming air, would have the opposite

effect and increase the fuelling to prevent a stall.

It made no difference. But only costing a tank of fuel it's no big deal.

With the winter being upon us, and the chances for rides of 150 miles or more to check the effectiveness of any mods,

I took the easy option today and ordered two new stepper motors.

I'll update once I've fitted and tried them as to whether it's another dead end, or not.

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Well here goes......

Got two new stepper motors and a dry day, today, in which to fit them.

All booked for an overnight stay in South Wales next Monday so should be able to

report on whether or not there's any apparent difference, after that, if not before.

:lurk:

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Well, motors swapped, so we'll see how it goes.

On taking the old motors out there was no obvious wear, or grit etc visible.

Before removing them I used the GS-911 to test them and could hear, and feel both motors working.

TBH neither of them sounded, or felt particularly smooth in operation.

After replacing them I performed the same test and thought I'd forgotten to connect them up.

The new ones are so quiet in operation. Almost silent and virtually imperceptible vibration when moving.

I also noticed FWIW the plunger shaft in the old ones is coloured black, but the new ones are plain steel.

Don't know if it's of any significance, or indicates a modification, or not.

All I need now is the opportunity for a decent run to check for cutting out - Monday at the latest. :clap:

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My engine R1200RT 2007, have sometimes suddenly stopped, when the rpm comes under 1500.Don`t run eedle. First time it happened ( on hollyday, at 7500km) I was driving the motorway towards Barcelona. The result was the back wheel locked and lost grip, and we nearly overturned. The bike was carried to a BMW workshop in Barcelona,who not had a computer, but changed all 4 sparkplugs!!??

Than the machine runned fine for a week. Than, and since,it suddenly stopp, but start easy aftherwards. Sometines the engine just stopp,at the end of a ride, slowing down, set the gear in neutral,the throttle to zero.

 

This was in 2007 -08. Than BMW ( after an expensive lawyer ) in 2009 gave me a 2008 model. After a year it had the same problem. Stalling when the throttle is in a special position. 5 months ago, my dealer solved the problem. But could not tell what they had done! 2011, afther 70000 km,the first summer I drove 16000 without problems. ( have had the most problems of those you are writing about)

 

 

Hansi

 

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Can the problem lie in the cruise control - throttle cable adjusting, and the microswitch.?

 

 

 

Afternoon Hansi

 

No not in the Cruise Control micro switch but under JUST the right circumstances possibly in the cruise control cable adjustment or more likely in the 2 piece cruise control adjustable joint pulled apart slightly.

 

If everything should stack up JUST RIGHT so that cruise control cable is at the perfect (just a bit too tight) position to hold the throttle plates open JUST enough that the Stepper Motors can back off to maintain proper idle RPM then you could possibly get a stall if you quickly twisted the twist throttle grip a bit more tightly closed.

 

Not very likely to happen as the cruise control cable being tight usually leads to a very high idle speed all the time.

 

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HUGE thanks to DR for helping with this problem. I don't know how many people I've talked with about this over the past 2 years, and you're the first one to point to the steppers. It sure sounds like they are the culprit. Unfortunately, living in Canada, and with snow already on the ground, the bike is tucked away for the winter. I eagerly await Ian's test, and if all goes well, I'll be putting 2 new steppers on in the spring.

 

Ian...don't let me down buddy...it HAS to work. :)

 

Jim

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Jim,

so far so good.

Covered 280 miles or so today with a couple of stops en route.

No cut outs at all, so the new motors appear to have worked.

I'll update later tomorrow once we're back home, but on the plus side I have noticed the tickover,

once the engine is hot, is no longer rough and lower than normal, presumably due to it now being

sorted correctly by the stepper motors.

:clap:

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Jim,

Return joiurney home without any hiccups, or stalling.

Tickover when hot is much smoother and higher than it was before.

(By higher I mean where it should be 1150ish, rather than dropping to 950 / 1000rpm)

At the risk of tempting fate I actually think it's sorted. :clap:

 

I could possibly have saved money by working out which one, if not both, was faulty, but by the time I'd factored in petrol,

to check if any changes had any effect, I'm probably not much, if any worse off, by just replacing them both.

If it's any indication the pair cost me £175.00, or approx $275 Canadian, and fitting was an easy 15 minutes once the plastic was off for access.

 

BIG THANKS to D.R. for the pointers.

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Awesome news Ian!! And I second the thanks to DR!

 

Riding season is definitely over here, so I will get them fitted when the weather warms up...unless Santa brings me a heated garage this year. My local dealer quoted me $277 each, but the US dealers are quoting me $148 each so I think this will be mail-order.

 

Let me know if you're ever in the neighborhood...pints are on me.

 

Jim

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Ian, it just occurred to me that I should probably make sure that we are both talking about the same thing. (I'm not the most mechanical-minded person out there) Here is the part that I am planning to order 2 of. Can you confirm that this is the same part you are referring to? Thanks.

 

P/N 13547672966 IDLE CONTROL DEVICE

 

Jim

 

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Jim,

YES those are they.

Two torx screws secure them to the throttle housing, and a single connector for the electronics.

The most time consuming part was removing the plastic to get at them.

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  • 4 months later...

It warmed up enough to work on the bike and replace the idle actuators. All seemed ok at first, but this weekend the stalling problem returned. After about 300 kms without turning the bike off, it began to idle rough, then stalled. After 2 more stalls I pulled over, cycled the ignition, and the problem went away. Was really hoping the idle actuators would solve this. Any other ideas what this might be?

 

Jim

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Afternoon Jim

 

It still sounds like one of your stepper motors might be getting lost. That could be due to a throttle plate not always returning to it's idle stop correctly therefore changing base air flow.

 

So first thing, make sure the paint marks on your idle stop screws are still intact. If that paint indexing is broken then someone has probably messed with your idle screws. If the idle stops are messed up who knows how they are returning to seating.

 

Next, make sure that BOTH side throttle cables at the TB's are not real tight & springy. I have seen both sides of the 1200 pulled slightly out of the boden box therefore not allowing proper throttle plate return to exact seat. L/H side just seems a bit short & the R/H due to not properly sitting in the air snorkel cut out for the cable.

 

Also make sure there is a bit of slack in both sides with hot engine (cables set too tight can also play havoc with properly returning to idle)

 

If the idle stop screws are still at factory settings & neither cable is tight then I really don't know what you are dealing with other than maybe a vacuum leak between a TB & intake valve.

 

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Don't forget to check the obvious- like the hose/plug that get removed when doing a synch. Failure to reconnect stuff isn't all that rare...

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Where would I find the throttle-valve (idle) stop screws to make sure they have not been tinkered with? I have checked the throttle cables, which seem fine...maybe a bit loose. And the plugs covering the TB synch port seem snug.

 

Jim

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Sorry to hear you're still having problems Jim.

The symptoms certainly seemed identical to mine, but the solution appears not to be.

Hope it's something simple that you soon 'fall over'

 

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  • 8 months later...

 

I started this thread some time ago due to an idle/throttle problem. Here is the original problem I described:

 

I have a 2006 R1200RT with 60,000 miles (100,000kms), owned since new, and all service done by the dealer with the exception of some oil changes. 2 years ago, when the bike was 4 years old and with ~40,000 miles, it started to have an intermittent stalling problem. I have had the dealer look at it twice, and the only conclusion has been, "we can't reproduce it, or find anything wrong, but happy to keep spending your money if you want". This only happens when the bike is thoroughly warmed up, and does not always happen. While I am riding, there is no sign of an issue. Good response, good power. I pull to a stop, release the throttle, and the bike idles very low and rough, then cuts out. I start it back up, which can take 2-3 tries, and it will only stay running if i give it some throttle. Doesn't take much, just enough to get the idle up and its fine. Once this happens, I can never completely let off the throttle, or it will stall. This makes for extremely hairy riding in traffic. If I stop the bike and let it sit for a bit, the problem will usually go away until the bike is thoroughly warmed up again. As an example, last summer I rode from Toronto to the Redmond rally. I had no problems at all for the first 10 days, then I had the problem every day, usually starting mid-late morning, and continuing until I stopped for the day. After 4-5 days, it went away. It feels exactly as though the idle just needs to be increased a bit, but I am told there is no such thing on the RT.

Since I posted this, I have replaced both idle actuators, but unfortunately it did not resolve the problem. Now, armed with a GS-911, I took some samples after a recent ride. To my untrained eye, everything looked reasonable with the exception of the lambda sensor in cylinder 1. So, 2 questions:

 

1. Does the cylinder 1 lambda sensor look like it needs to be replaced?

2. Could this sensor cause the type of behavior I described above?

 

8316122024_3043879bd0_b.jpg

 

Thanks very much,

 

Jim

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Yes you need a new #1 sensor.

 

If in doubt switch them and look again.

 

This was taken when the bike was or was not stalling?

 

I am not sure this is causing your stalling but the right one (#2) is reporting properly.

 

David

Edited by David R
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Don_Eilenberger

I'd agree with David. Cylinder 1 O2 sensor has low output, and slow output, which would jive with the symptoms you describe.

 

I'll send you a PM with some used ones I spotted..

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Thanks all for the replies. The data I posted was taken over a 2 minute period, in my garage, after returning from a ride where the bike was stalling. Can't believe how expensive O2 sensors are. Don, thanks for the PM. I will definitely look at that sensor.

 

Now, to make sure I replace the correct one, cylinder 1 is the left side, as seen from sitting on the bike, right?

 

Jim

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