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Electrical Outlet on new 1200GS


fisherman

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Whats the deal with not being able to run my electric jacket through this outlet. The master mechanic at my dealet said it had to come off a fuse box. You have got to be kidding! Why would BMW have an accessory outlet if it won't handle a simple accessory?

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Whats the deal with not being able to run my electric jacket through this outlet. The master mechanic at my dealet said it had to come off a fuse box. You have got to be kidding! Why would BMW have an accessory outlet if it won't handle a simple accessory?
Do a search on the forum and you'll see that the "problem" is actually more of a "limitation". For whatever reason, BMW has imposed a 5amp limit on the accessory socket for the GS/ST (10amp on the RT). As a result, you'll be limited to what you can plug into the socket. The workaround of course, is to wire an auxillary socket (with an inline fuse) directly to the battery.

 

Here's another example of someone hooking up a wiring relay for their GS.

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I've used my Gerbing's jacket liner on my GS with no problems. Gerbing's says that the liner draws 77 watts. The GS manual says the power outlet is limited to 5 amps. Even if the alternator puts out 14 volts, that's only 70 watts, so according to the manual, it shouldn't work. One thing, the Gerbing's contoller is designed to go on and off intermittently, the frequency increasing as you ask for more heat. That may have something to do with it.

 

That being said, I went ahead and wired up a second (actually a third) powerlet direct to the battery with an inline 15 amp fuse. Now I've got plenty of juice for my tire pump, heat, GPS, whatever. I'd suggest doing the same for you.

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Whats the deal with not being able to run my electric jacket through this outlet. The master mechanic at my dealet said it had to come off a fuse box. You have got to be kidding! Why would BMW have an accessory outlet if it won't handle a simple accessory?
Do a search on the forum and you'll see that the "problem" is actually more of a "limitation". For whatever reason, BMW has imposed a 5amp limit on the accessory socket for the GS/ST (10amp on the RT). As a result, you'll be limited to what you can plug into the socket. The workaround of course, is to wire an auxillary socket (with an inline fuse) directly to the battery.

 

Here's another example of someone hooking up a wiring relay for their GS.

 

Or, do like I did:

 

The R1200GS Canbus system is somewhat reluctant to be messed with. OK, that is an understatement. It wont tolerate being messed with.

 

So, if you want to add accessories, you need to either wire them directly to the battery, or create a fuse box. Of course for the fuse box to work right, and to prevent your accessories from killing the fairly small battery on the 12GS, you need to hook the fuse box up to a relay.

 

Here is the wiring diagram I made up, and used. Note that I have the GPS wired directly to the battery still, since I want power at all times. If you have a unit with a battery, you can use the fuse box.

 

Fuse-wiring-diagram.jpg

 

Lots of wires can be messy, but BMW was thinking about us when they elected to furnish a tool kit with no tools in it (for all intents and purposes), so I put the fuse box in the spote where the tools used to be. It is the perfect location.

 

I used a Blue Seas fuse box because it is a quality unit, and marine rated for protection, so I figured it would work on a bike. I got it for $20 on E-bay new.

 

01-Fuse-block-whole1.jpg

 

The relays are under the fuse box, and it is held in place by the tool strap. This makes it easy to lift up if you want to add more accessories, or change a fuse.

 

01-Fuse-block-whole-strappe.jpg

 

The big picture. Pretty clean considering I did it in 25 degree temps, outside, at night. When I add more lights I will make the wires a little neater, but it works.

 

01-Fuse-block-tap.jpg

 

I took the signal power for the main 30amp relay, purchased at Pep Boys for $3.99, from the testing plug at the back of the fuse box. I used the green wire with blue stripes because it is ignition on only, so the fuse block is only powered when the key is on. The power needed is so low that the Canbus ignores it.

 

When I wired up the fuse box, I also installed some new Motolights that I got for a steal at just $250. They work well, though I may add more light, as you can never have too much.

 

01-GS-Motolight-front.jpg

 

The big picture.

 

01-GS-Motolight-wiring.jpg

 

The wires coming up the brake lines are nearly unnoticable.

 

01-GS-Motolight-rt-mount2.jpg

 

I put the switch on the inside of the left brush guard, which lets me turn them on and off with my index finger, bit is out of the way.

 

01-GS-Motolight-switch.jpg

 

Anyhow, it works great. I did 200 miles today and no problems. After dark the Motolights definitely improved on the already good stock lighting.

 

I also routed the power for my electrics to the fuse box, and have set it up to add my new FIAM horn as soon as I find a 5amp relay.

 

Next...

 

Jim 8)

 

Worked all day with full electric gear on a high setting with no problems.

 

Jim cool.gif

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I run an Eclipse electric vest with zero problems. Last year I commuted into early December, and hope to do the same this year, so the vest gets a workout.

 

I wouldn't worry about it unless you end up having a problem with what you plan to add. If that happens, it is easy to add another fused socket with its own circuit that bypasses the CANBUS, but my money is on the idea that you won't have to.

 

Who knows why that mechanic told you that. Maybe he was just repeating something he'd been told, or was fishing for extra work for the dealership installing a new socket for you. I suppose it is possible to plug in more than the socket can handle, but you're not going to hit that limit with normal stuff. Even if you do hit the limit, what the CANBUS does is simply shut off power to it. Then, the next time you turn the key off and on, the power comes back.

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I could run one vest at 3.6 amps off the CANbus outlet on my ST. No deal when I used the second CANbus outlet and tried to run two vests at the same time so apparently the manual is correct when they say that there is a 5 amp limit. Got a nice Powerlet kit with a direct battery hook-up and no problems. The kit has #14 wire, 15 amp fuse, bracket and socket for around $50.00. I can also use my old Battery Tender with this set up instead of buying the 'special' Beemer charger that works with the CANbus System.

 

www.powerletproducts.com

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I run an Eclipse electric vest with zero problems. Last year I commuted into early December, and hope to do the same this year, so the vest gets a workout.

 

I wouldn't worry about it unless you end up having a problem with what you plan to add. If that happens, it is easy to add another fused socket with its own circuit that bypasses the CANBUS, but my money is on the idea that you won't have to.

 

Who knows why that mechanic told you that. Maybe he was just repeating something he'd been told, or was fishing for extra work for the dealership installing a new socket for you. I suppose it is possible to plug in more than the socket can handle, but you're not going to hit that limit with normal stuff. Even if you do hit the limit, what the CANBUS does is simply shut off power to it. Then, the next time you turn the key off and on, the power comes back.

 

Maybe with just ONE vest, but add a full jacket, pants and gloves, any you double, and then some, the limit of the outlet. Add a second person, and the Canbus will not go at all with just vests. One Gerbings vest on high will overload the plug.

 

On top of that, I did not want a mess of wires coming off the battery, causing possible loss of conductivity from the alternator, and to the starter, caused by so many dissimilar metals in contact at the battery posts.

 

Moreover, if you expect to add additional accessories, you run out of the ability to add more wires to the battery, and it gets very tight trying to run them under the seat right there where the wires would have to be.

 

Note I added Motolights, Heated Gear, a horn, a GPS and will soon be adding another set of driving lights. This just wouldn't be feasable without a fuse block, or at least a terminal block. Add a half dozen fuse holders along the mass of wires, and a real mess developes.

 

If all you have is one vest, and nothing else, then you might be OK.

 

Jim cool.gif

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Whats the deal with not being able to run my electric jacket through this outlet. The master mechanic at my dealet said it had to come off a fuse box. You have got to be kidding! Why would BMW have an accessory outlet if it won't handle a simple accessory?

 

Rubbish! Not having a fuse will not stop the "accessory" from working.

 

If you are worried about shorts then stick an inline fuse in the cord before the plug. Otherwidse don't worry about it. There are several things on the bike as it is delivered from BMW that run straight off the battery, so maybe your mechanic thinks these won't work either?

 

Mechanics that don't understand basic principles are really irritating!

 

Bob.

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...This just wouldn't be feasable without a fuse block, or at least a terminal block. Add a half dozen fuse holders along the mass of wires, and a real mess developes.
Which (ironically), negates one of the primary "features" of the canbus - no need for fuses. dopeslap.gif
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...This just wouldn't be feasable without a fuse block, or at least a terminal block. Add a half dozen fuse holders along the mass of wires, and a real mess developes.
Which (ironically), negates one of the primary "features" of the canbus - no need for fuses. dopeslap.gif

 

Not always. If you run just one vest at less than full power, you don't need to add any fuses or fuse block.

 

If you intend to add a lot of accessories, as many BMW riders do, then a fuse block helps to protect your accessories. Or you can just run a bunch of wires off the battery and hope nothing happens. grin.gif

 

Jim cool.gif

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