OlGeezer Posted July 18, 2011 Share Posted July 18, 2011 I just got back from my ride, leading a group of folks through the 7 Passes of the Sierra Nevadas. It was a great ride. 29 hours from the Sherman Pass to the Luther Pass with Tioga Pass, Sonora Pass, Monitor Pass, Ebbetts Pass and Carson Pass in between. On the way home, I also turned 159k miles. I was about 38 miles from home when I started having a problem. I was on a pretty sizeable grade. With my reduced compression, I was WOT maintaining the speed of the adjacent traffic. All of a sudden, the engine started to miss like I was running out of fuel. The bike started to slow and I started to move towards the slow lane in anticipation of stopping altogether. I slowed to about 60 MPH. I started to back off the throttle and the engine began to smooth out. I was able to reach the summit and picked up some speed as I started to decend. For the remainder of the ride, I had no additional experiences of engine sputtering even as I returned to cruising speed. I stopped at my office to check my mail. When I started up my bike, the ABS light remained at a fast flash. I turned off the bike and turned it back on. Same result. I started the bike and rolled about 20 feet to test the brakes. They worked, but about 20% of normal and definitely no power assist. I turned off the bike and turned it back on to see if it would reset. No luck. I only had about 1-1/2 miles to home, so I rode safe and easy. In two blocks, the ABS light went out and my full brakes returned. So, in theory, my bike is fine, but I am concerned. I don't want to be stuck on the side of the road if this is preventable. Some data that might be relative or may just lead to confusion: Original O2 sensor. Original cannister. Original computer module. Original ABS module. Original ABS sensors. I can stop by the dealer to get the fault codes read. Is that where I should start? Is there something else I can do? Thanks, Link to comment
ESokoloff Posted July 18, 2011 Share Posted July 18, 2011 Just a thought but the two are not related? Perhaps the fuel condition was/is a deteriorating pick up tube/hose exasperated by the incline? Or the fuel filter needs replacement? Or your fuel regulator is going out? On the brake ABS lazy initiation, I would suspect a sticking (closed/on) brake switch. Link to comment
David13 Posted July 18, 2011 Share Posted July 18, 2011 Or you could get a code read from a HexCode GS911 from someone, which would be free. That would tell if there were any codes set. I would think the two not related. Unless electrically related. dc Link to comment
Allen Rowand Posted July 18, 2011 Share Posted July 18, 2011 All of a sudden, the engine started to miss like I was running out of fuel. The bike started to slow and I started to move towards the slow lane in anticipation of stopping altogether. I slowed to about 60 MPH. I started to back off the throttle and the engine began to smooth out. I was able to reach the summit and picked up some speed as I started to decend. For the remainder of the ride, I had no additional experiences of engine sputtering even as I returned to cruising speed. Sounds a bit like what happened to me a few days ago; doing 70ish on the highway, bike started to slow down and buck a bit when I was in 5th and the engine was under load. Dropped to 4th and got the revs up and it was fine. Bike had been running fine previously, but I got gas from a shady little Citgo earlier in the day. Consensus is a bad fuel filter or maybe cracked internal fuel lines, parts should be here in a few days & I'll find out. Either that or the O2 sensor; I'm going for the fuel filter first, if it happens again I'll try pulling the O2 lead and see if things improve. May be a place for you to start… Don't know about the brakes, but it I agree the two problems may be unrelated. Best of luck getting things feeling right again! Link to comment
Boffin Posted July 18, 2011 Share Posted July 18, 2011 Wild guess coming up... I had an ABS fault that after a lot of chasing, two new ABS sensors and a lot of trial and error, turned out to be a dead battery. It would still start the bike, but was high-resistance and running low-voltage. Worth a load-test if nothing else. (possible alternator belt????) Andy Link to comment
Ian Posted July 18, 2011 Share Posted July 18, 2011 Not brake related but I had the same top gear (and only in top gear) power reduction when my air filter got chewed up by a mouse. Of course this was the last thing I checked. http://images.nikonians.org/galleries/data/18810/IMG_4498.jpg Ian Link to comment
dirtrider Posted July 18, 2011 Share Posted July 18, 2011 Morning OlGeezer At WOT climbing a long hill you are in open loop so I doubt it’s your 02 sensor. That (your low power problem) is a difficult thing to diagnose, especially from a distance, & now that it isn’t acting up anymore. It could have been anything from a piece of carbon breaking loose & ending up in a spark plug electrode gap, or ending up between a valve & seat, or something shutting down part of your fuel flow (plugging pick up sock or filter blockage, etc), Or something like low system voltage lowering ign coil output, or lowering fuel pressure/flow, or effecting fuel injector power. Unless the power problem returns about all you can do preventive wise is check the alternator belt for slipping/wear, give it (an extended) fuel flow & fuel pressure test, look for signs of carbon or aluminum splashed on the spark plugs, verify the R/H TB cam hasn’t worn though the R/H spark plug wire, give the fueling & ign system a good thorough looking over. On your brake problem—with the general light being off & the brake light flashing fast that only tells you that both ends are in residual braking (no power assist). Obviously checking for a failure code (or codes) would be the best place to start as that might point directly to your problem. The no power-assist thing is usually a power supply or low power to the controller problem but could also be from a sticking front or rear brake switch at ride off. Things like failing wheel sensors usually leave the power assist working but no ABS available. Even things like low controller reservoir fluid issues only disable on end not both. The only common denominator I see between the engine loss of power & the brake controller issue is low battery or low system power so maybe start with an alternator belt integrity check then work out from there. Link to comment
OlGeezer Posted July 18, 2011 Author Share Posted July 18, 2011 Morning OlGeezer At WOT climbing a long hill you are in open loop so I doubt it’s your 02 sensor. That (your low power problem) is a difficult thing to diagnose, especially from a distance, & now that it isn’t acting up anymore. It could have been anything from a piece of carbon breaking loose & ending up in a spark plug electrode gap, or ending up between a valve & seat, or something shutting down part of your fuel flow (plugging pick up sock or filter blockage, etc), Or something like low system voltage lowering ign coil output, or lowering fuel pressure/flow, or effecting fuel injector power. Unless the power problem returns about all you can do preventive wise is check the alternator belt for slipping/wear, give it (an extended) fuel flow & fuel pressure test, look for signs of carbon or aluminum splashed on the spark plugs, verify the R/H TB cam hasn’t worn though the R/H spark plug wire, give the fueling & ign system a good thorough looking over. On your brake problem—with the general light being off & the brake light flashing fast that only tells you that both ends are in residual braking (no power assist). Obviously checking for a failure code (or codes) would be the best place to start as that might point directly to your problem. The no power-assist thing is usually a power supply or low power to the controller problem but could also be from a sticking front or rear brake switch at ride off. Things like failing wheel sensors usually leave the power assist working but no ABS available. Even things like low controller reservoir fluid issues only disable on end not both. The only common denominator I see between the engine loss of power & the brake controller issue is low battery or low system power so maybe start with an alternator belt integrity check then work out from there. Dirtrider - thanks for your response. This reminded me that I had a previous similar problem with the brakes. It turned out that my front brake lever was hanging up. I removed it and cleaned the bushing. I even had to take some fine sand paper and polish the brass sleeves before it would work smoothly. I bet it's the same thing (fingers crossed). I'll let you know what the fault code check says. My first reaction was "OMG, I've reached a compression ratio of 1:1"!!!!! Link to comment
OlGeezer Posted July 22, 2011 Author Share Posted July 22, 2011 Unless the power problem returns about all you can do preventive wise is check the alternator belt for slipping/wear, give it (an extended) fuel flow & fuel pressure test, look for signs of carbon or aluminum splashed on the spark plugs, verify the R/H TB cam hasn’t worn though the R/H spark plug wire, give the fueling & ign system a good thorough looking over. Is it possible that the belt is slipping and yet the alternator light does not come on? I took it out for a short ride yesterday and had a difficult time starting it. When I got home, I put it on my trickle charger where it was pulling 1A. Strange. I'm checking the belt this weekend. Fortunately, this is easy to do since I split the cover. Now, all I have to do is remove two 4mm hexes and I can reach the belt. Remove two more and I can adjust or replace it. Of course, I owe it all to KMG. Link to comment
BFish Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 it's not a bad starter is it? it would draw the battery down, but may not cause a running problem in and of itself. Link to comment
OlGeezer Posted July 22, 2011 Author Share Posted July 22, 2011 it's not a bad starter is it? it would draw the battery down, but may not cause a running problem in and of itself. I highly suspect the starter. If the alternator belt is fine, I'm ordering one. What's up with this BMW crap? A starter won't last longer than 159k miles and 9 years? Sheesh! Link to comment
BFish Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 mine went at 45k. had it rebuilt for $125. final drive goes it goes...starter and stick coils drive you nuts. good luck. Link to comment
tallman Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 Perhaps if you took some long rides instead of the constant on/off short riding you do. I was hoping you'd get 200k out of that starter. Dang. Link to comment
Alfred02 Posted July 23, 2011 Share Posted July 23, 2011 it's not a bad starter is it? it would draw the battery down, but may not cause a running problem in and of itself. I highly suspect the starter. If the alternator belt is fine, I'm ordering one. What's up with this BMW crap? A starter won't last longer than 159k miles and 9 years? Sheesh! Wow, you guys are nuts! A 159.000 miles (256000km) and you bitch about the starter finally carking it? Jeeez Link to comment
Dan M Posted July 23, 2011 Share Posted July 23, 2011 Check charging output. If it is marginal, voltage could drop on a long ride and give odd symptoms. By the same token if the battery is marginal and is requiring most of the alternators output you could be experiencing low voltage. Link to comment
OlGeezer Posted July 23, 2011 Author Share Posted July 23, 2011 Check charging output. If it is marginal, voltage could drop on a long ride and give odd symptoms. By the same token if the battery is marginal and is requiring most of the alternators output you could be experiencing low voltage. Battery is new. Link to comment
notacop Posted July 23, 2011 Share Posted July 23, 2011 It's call of the Lorelie 1600GT calling......That and your electrical gremlins coming back. Link to comment
OlGeezer Posted July 26, 2011 Author Share Posted July 26, 2011 It's call of the Lorelie 1600GT calling......That and your electrical gremlins coming back. I've got a solution for both. Checked new starter prices on the A&S website: $308. New OEM from Beemer Boneyard: $210. Called Josh Buck at Parts Haus (562 590-4851) in Long Beach. He has a used one: $100. Link to comment
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