bobmorris Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 Bike is a 2007 R1200RT-P now at 36k miles. I am considering changing the final drive lube at this time. All instructions call for dropping the final drive and draining through the one and only opening. Why could I not use a syringe with a flexible tube and suction out the old lube with out the work of disconnecting every thing necessary to drop the drive? I was considering a 60ml syringe with a piece of plastic tubing to empty the dribe and then with a clean syrings refilling it. Any comments or suggestions? Bob Link to comment
dirtrider Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 Afternoon Bob Some have tried to do it that way with various rates of success. The biggest problem is that the ring gear is VERY close to the housing so you really can’t get much down in there. Even when/if you finally wedge a small diameter tube down in there you can’t get all those nasties that like to drop to the very bottom of the casting. (you really have no idea of how close that little tube will get to the lowest spot in the drive) Another thought, -- When changing the final drive fluid that is also a good time to inspect the rear U joint for signs of roughness (not that uncommon on the older 1200’s & also lubricate the rear pinion to drive shaft splines. Just not that difficult to drop the drive back & do it correctly. The best time to do the rear drive is at rear tire change as you are half way through the job with the rear tire removed. Link to comment
FlyingFinn Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 I'm no pro mechanic, far from it. and even for me it is SO easy to drop the drive I don't think twice about it. Honestly, it will be so quick and easy to do you'll slap yourself later for even wondering about it. It might sound complicated but it's not. Not to sound like a shoe add but "just do it." -- Mikko Link to comment
Jaguar Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 I'm no pro mechanic, far from it. and even for me it is SO easy to drop the drive I don't think twice about it. Honestly, it will be so quick and easy to do you'll slap yourself later for even wondering about it. -- Mikko I'll ditto that. I'm a simple garage mechanic and it's a very easy job. Here is a web site that I use to accomplish the job. http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=33229 Link to comment
longjohn Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 One thing to add to the bmwmoa write up is that you don't have to fill it thru the speed sensor hole. With only 180ml, you can fill through the drain hole when the FD is back in place. Link to comment
Paul Mihalka Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 Some comments: You still have to remove the speed sensor to tilt the drive down for draining and it is a easier fill hole than using the drain hole. Besides I very much want to see if there is any metal junk picked up by the sensor. Now with the 180ml fill volume I leave the drain open and with a oil gun pump oil through the sensor hole until it comes out the drain hole. That is 180ml. Link to comment
RT66Rider Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 Some comments: You still have to remove the speed sensor to tilt the drive down for draining and it is a easier fill hole than using the drain hole. Now with the 180ml fill volume I leave the drain open and with a oil gun pump oil through the sensor hole until it comes out the drain hole. That is 180ml. I recently had to replace the FD on my '06 RT (at 88,400 miles), and the drain moved from the 3 o'clock position to the 6 o'clock position. (maybe because it was manufactured during European Daylight Savings Time) I was told by the dealer that this new unit was the latest FD for the RT. My point is, on these units, filling from the speed sensor is the only option. Link to comment
dirtrider Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 I was told by the dealer that this new unit was the latest FD for the RT. My point is, on these units, filling from the speed sensor is the only option. Morning Michael On all the later final drives I have seen (drain plug at 6 o’clock) there is an actual fill plug (forward of the speed sensor) to re-fill through. No need to remove the speed sensor on those. Link to comment
Paul Mihalka Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 Forgot in my prev. post: If you plan to remove the speed sensor, have handy or replace the o-ring. They often leak when reinstalled. Link to comment
David13 Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 In Sept. 2007 they started to install the new final drive units, with the drain hole at the bottom, and a fill hole separate from the speed sensor hole. That was on 2008 year models. Thus eliminating the need to drop the final drive to change the oil. No doubt to make it easier to more regularly change the oil. At some point, they changed the recommended amount of oil from 200 ml to 180 ml. dc Link to comment
BerndM Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 Personally, I think that even though moving the drain to the bottom of the FD seems to make logical sense, it may lull SOME people into doing the FD oil change as scheduled BUT those same people may now ignore the vitally important re-lubing of the FD splines. With the drain in the old 3 o'clock position, you HAD to swivel the FD down to drain the oil so it was super simple to re-lube the splines at that time. A simple case of 2 birds with one stone.... Just sayin' Link to comment
RT66Rider Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 I was told by the dealer that this new unit was the latest FD for the RT. My point is, on these units, filling from the speed sensor is the only option. Morning Michael On all the later final drives I have seen (drain plug at 6 o’clock) there is an actual fill plug (forward of the speed sensor) to re-fill through. No need to remove the speed sensor on those. Ah, OK. That's good to know. Thanks Link to comment
JAP Posted July 13, 2011 Share Posted July 13, 2011 Hi there, and the new FD also has a magnetic captor at the drain plug. Still dont know why filler is allen and drain torx, or vice versa. Best regards Japanese Link to comment
dirtrider Posted July 13, 2011 Share Posted July 13, 2011 ---- Still dont know why filler is allen and drain torx, Evening Japanese An educated guess would be that small diameter fill plug is from an existing application using an older specification. I really can’t see BMW specing a brand new fill plug design when a cheaper one that will work already exists from another source. Link to comment
Bronx Cheer Posted July 13, 2011 Share Posted July 13, 2011 I just changed my FD fluid and did a spline lube this past weekend, It was my first time for a spline lube and it was not very difficult. The biggest PITA for me is swinging out the exhaust to remove the rear wheel. Link to comment
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