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Changing a Drive Shaft


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The rear U-joint on my '06 RT is whacked after 88k miles, and from what I've read, the whole drive shaft must be changed.


So, has anyone replaced their own drive shaft ?

If so, what must be removed to accomplish the task ?

Are there any special tools required ?


From what I have read, U-joint failures are rather rare, so would it be worth considering a used one from Beemerboneyard ?



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Morning Michael


FIRST THING—securely ratchet strap the center stand to the front end so it can’t collapse (very-very important)




-Sounds like you already have the rear wheel off & Paralever rear pivot unbolted

-Remove muffler

-Remove both side footrest plates

-Remove front part of rear mud guard

**Unstrap ALL wires & hoses that interfere with swing arm removal

-Remove rear shock (or at least the bottom bolt & maybe work around it)

**Remove ABS sensor from final drive (very important)

-Remove brake rear caliper & tie it up, (block pads so they stay put if brake lever is mistakenly hit)

-Either remove final drive or strap it to the swing arm AFTER drive shaft is pried loose from pinion)

Remove rubber gaiter


The swing arm has to come to the rear so next you will have to find a way to remove both front swing arm pivot bearings (left isn’t too bad) but on right you will probably have to fabricate a screw in puller or slide hammer puller. Maybe even a bolt with Vise Grips on it then rap that outboard with a hammer. Mark L/H side for pivot bolt clocking position before removal (so you can put it back at re-assembly)


Careful of the flopping around drive shaft, once the swing arm is off (over the drive shaft) then pry the drive shaft off the trans output shaft splines.


The above is just a quick over-view as you really should have a service manual before starting a job like this. If doing the job without a proper service manual go real slowly and address anything not covered above.


I’m pretty sure the 1200RT drive shafts are keyed for U joint indexing but in case your new one isn’t verify U joint phasing is correct before installing.


Put a little high moly percentage based grease on the splines on both ends before installing new shaft.


Careful as I probably missed a few things in the above (go slowly and methodically)




Added: there was a drive shaft update in around Jan of 08. The pre 08 drive shafts had a number of failures so be careful on buying a used pre 08 drive shaft.


I’m not sure (IF) the later (post 1/08) shaft will fit your bike or not, so again do some research (or talk to Beemer BoneYard) before buying a later (post 1/08) drive shaft.


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