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What's best for removing locktite from threads?


Willie

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Have my tail in the air for awhile and wanted to get some stuff cleaned up before reassembly. What's the best way to get locktite and other gunk out of swing arm threads and other parts?

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I use two things........a wire brush (the toothbrush sized ones), and an Exacto-knife.

 

Good old Harbor Freight to the rescue :grin:

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If it's not a painted surface, Acetone works fairly well. Don't get it on any painted surfaces.

Yes to both of Ken's suggestions.

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How do you get the bike into your beadblast cabinet!

I wouldn't be too happy with the fact it would take the 'free running' element from the threads too - really important for setting up the torque pre-load on FD & swing arm pivots.

No, for me it is heat gun to break down the loctite, then wire pick / spark plug wire brush for the worst, then acetone for the final home run.

 

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Joe Frickin' Friday
I use two things........a wire brush (the toothbrush sized ones), and an Exacto-knife.

 

Good old Harbor Freight to the rescue :grin:

 

Wire brush and X-Acto knife work well for the external threads on the pivot pins. For the internal threads on the swingarm itself, it's hard to get a good angle with the knife. Best tool for picking the big chunks loose is a seal picker with a right-angle tip, the bottom tool in this picture:

 

ubbthreads.php?ubb=download&Number=5632&filename=pickset.jpg

 

5632.jpg.ddf36144465d5cd8015f87213bfac72b.jpg

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Afternoon Willie

 

I use a rotary wire brush on a bench grinder to remove the LocTite from external bolt threads & the OD of threaded fasteners. For internal threads I will usually just run a proper sized tap in or at the very least the original bolt in & out a few times then blow the hole out with compressed air. I never get too excited to get all the remnants out of a threaded hole as long as the loose stuff is removed and the bolt screws in easily with no binding.

 

At work we use the correct methylene chloride recommended by the LoctTite reps (not sure if you can buy that outside of the industrial world, but maybe as it is a type of paint remover).

 

 

 

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I've had good luck using Acetone, Methyethylketone(MEK), carb cleaner and a wire brush. I don't use implements like Mitch and Keith noted for fear of hurting myself :) For really small recessed holes I use a dental pick. I occasionally find MEK in the paint stores. It will take at least the superficial paint layer off even if you're fast at cleaning up a spill. :( Protect you eyes and skin if you use it.

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Joe Frickin' Friday
For internal threads I will usually just run a proper sized tap... in or at the very least the original bolt in & out a few times then blow the hole out with compressed air. I never get too excited to get all the remnants out of a threaded hole as long as the loose stuff is removed and the bolt screws in easily with no binding.

 

For the swingarm pivot bolts, IIRC the preload-setting torque is just 7 N*m, which means it's critical to get all of the remnants out of the threads on both parts. Also, it's a very large-diameter thread, and most people aren't likely to have a tap on hand to match it.

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Hank in WV

I haven't tried it, but for internal threads, how about a bronze bore brush used for gun cleaning. Might work chucked up in a drill.

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Evening Andy

 

Yep that would work just fine. About any smaller sized tap with a 1.25mm pitch would work also as the thread pitch is the same just use it as a rake to clean the threads same as your tool for those swing arm pivot bolts.

 

 

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Major brain cramp going on here but, there used to a paint remover (sold in a yellow can like the old 3/1 oil cans) that was straight methylene chloride. I think that it was called Goof Off (or some such thing). It was sold to clean up spilled latex paint after it had dried.

 

A bit of trivia: methylene chloride is a solvent used on polycarbonate (Lexan). It was also used in order to decaffeinate Sanka. (Sort of makes me want to drink hi-test.)

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I use a very sharp awl and a wire brush on the grinder for the external threads. For the internal threads, there is a round wire brush that comes in various sizes used to clean copper pipe fittings prior to soldering. I have an assortment of those that I "screw" in and out of the threaded hole. You can also buy a round wire brush used to clean car battery terminals which is a bit stiffer. I agree that just running the threaded pivot pin in and out works really well to loosen it up before using the brush.

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