seized lug bolts

[Uncle Beemer]

Here's the deal, rear wheel on an '04 RT hasn't been off in 3 years. It's pretty well seized up. I have an impact wrench rated at 275 foot lbs. and it won't budge it. Soaking over night with penetrating oil, will try again tomorrow. Can anyone offer any other advice?

[Calvin (no socks)]

We see siezed lugs all the time in autos...a 3/4" x 48" breaker bar and whammo... We use impact wrenches rated much higher and seldom if ever damage anything! Have even had to loosen all lugs and then drive the vehicle around the lot to loosen the wheel from the hub/bearing...Then we use never sieze or some other moisture barrier to reduce the corrosive effects of time and water. DAMHIK

[BluegrassPicker]

I have had success in the past with seized bolts by "worrying" them off.

Penetrating oil, then firm pressure with a wrench while gently tapping the bolt with a hammer repeatedly for about 2 minutes. Boring, but eventually works.

[4wheeldog]

Here's the deal, rear wheel on an '04 RT hasn't been off in 3 years. It's pretty well seized up. Can anyone offer any other advice?

 

Yeah......Ride more, wear the tires out more frequently. Sorry, someone had to say it.

 

 

[dan cata]

That's because at the tire shop where you last time changed the rear tire, they have like 1 meter long wrenches and they do not know that if you would be on the side of the road and in need to undo the wheel, the bike wrench is only 30 cm long, extension included

 

Dan.

[AndyS]

Use a very long lever bar. It is frightening what force these things require to remove them sometimes (especially if someone has lubricated the threads on assembly).

Andy

[Joe Frickin' Friday]

Here's the deal, rear wheel on an '04 RT hasn't been off in 3 years. It's pretty well seized up. I have an impact wrench rated at 275 foot lbs. and it won't budge it.

 

Running that wrench at full rated air supply pressure? Hard to believe 275 ft-lbs won't do it. This is an 1150RT; if I remember right, it uses five small bolts that are normally installed with something like 60 ft-lbs (instead of the four large bolts that were on the 1100RT and got tightened to 76 ft-lbs).

 

I'll be surprised if any of the penetrating oil makes it to the threads, unless you had laid the bike on its side to let gravity do the work for you.

 

I think I like BlueGrassPicker's solution, the best application of which might require two people: one person to apply a continuous heavy torque with a breaker bar, and a second person to firmly and repeatedly rap on the socket of the wrench with a hammer. The repeated mechanical shocks should help break loose any seized areas in the threads.

[Jerry Duke]

That's because at the tire shop where you last time changed the rear tire, they have like 1 meter long wrenches and they do not know that if you would be on the side of the road and in need to undo the wheel, the bike wrench is only 30 cm long, extension included

 

Dan.

 

Agree 100% Dan. I had to change a tire once and all I could find was a 6 foot long pipe...From then on, every tire change I hand the salesperson, not a mechanic, MY tire tool and say, "Loosen one of the lug nuts". I leave it up to him to tell the mechanic's they need to use a torque wrench.

[nrp]

Any air wrench rating (ft lbs) is meaningless as the dynamics of the socket and any extensions etc will radically affect the max achievable torque.

 

Use a longer wrench or extension.

 

Others will disagree, but I grease my threads on reassembly to prevent corrosion and seizing, and torque to about 80% recommended level.

[AndyS]

... if I remember right, it uses five small bolts that are normally installed with something like 60 ft-lbs (instead of the four large bolts that were on the 1100RT and got tightened to 76 ft-lbs).

Sorry Mitch it is 77 ft lbs on the 4 bolts of the 1150.

 

...I'll be surprised if any of the penetrating oil makes it to the threads, unless you had laid the bike on its side to let gravity do the work for you. .

 

+1

 

...Use a longer wrench or extension...

+1

 

...Others will disagree, but I grease my threads on reassembly to prevent corrosion and seizing, and torque to about 80% recommended level..

 

Yep totally disagree. Most folk have never had problems with undoing these things with the correct tools. Often instructions given by a manufacturer can be debateable, but why change something when there isn't a problem BUT there is a good reason for doing it?

Andy

[OlGeezer]

Here's the deal, rear wheel on an '04 RT hasn't been off in 3 years.

 

This is really, really sad to read.

[Uncle Beemer]

Here's the deal, rear wheel on an '04 RT hasn't been off in 3 years. It's pretty well seized up. I have an impact wrench rated at 275 foot lbs. and it won't budge it.

 

Running that wrench at full rated air supply pressure? Hard to believe 275 ft-lbs won't do it. This is an 1150RT; if I remember right, it uses five small bolts that are normally installed with something like 60 ft-lbs (instead of the four large bolts that were on the 1100RT and got tightened to 76 ft-lbs).

 

I'll be surprised if any of the penetrating oil makes it to the threads, unless you had laid the bike on its side to let gravity do the work for you.

 

I think I like BlueGrassPicker's solution, the best application of which might require two people: one person to apply a continuous heavy torque with a breaker bar, and a second person to firmly and repeatedly rap on the socket of the wrench with a hammer. The repeated mechanical shocks should help break loose any seized areas in the threads.

I like that approach also. I'll be trying that out tomorrow. Thanks for all the positive comments.

[Uncle Beemer]

Here's the deal, rear wheel on an '04 RT hasn't been off in 3 years.

 

This is really, really sad to read.

So, you think it's sad 'eh. I have other bikes that I ride too. After a few medical problems and a freaking bitter divorce that consumed a lot of the past two years, I really didn't have the time or energy to ride a whole lot. Oh, and by the way i have a fabulously hot new girl friend (that's where all my energy went).Thanks for your concern tho!

[Haynes]

The rear wheel of the RT has the hole in the center that lets water into the hub and rusts the studs. The best way to loosen the studs is to soak the thread by spraying spraying a substantial amount of penetrating into the center hole and rotate the wheel every few hours (or even longer) to spread the penetrating oil amongst the studs. Put an old towell or something absorbent under the wheel hub to prevent any penetrating oil from getting onto the tire.

[Phil50]

Here's the deal, rear wheel on an '04 RT hasn't been off in 3 years.

 

This is really, really sad to read.

 

Funny I was thinking "I want some of those tyres!".

 

Strange how two people can interpret a few words in completely different ways. I must have been having a "glass half full" day.

 

Cheers

 

Phil

[4wheeldog]

I guess that is why I have that plug I bought from you 9 years ago in the middle of my wheel.

[Mr. Frank]

I guess that is why I have that plug I bought from you 9 years ago in the middle of my wheel.

 

+1

[Linz]

A&S Cycles in Sacramento sell these wheel hub plugs. You can even get a nice BMW decal for the centre. I have one on my bike because it was rusting inside the hub (so we discovered) when I fitted the last rear tyre.

 

Linz

[joerockt]

A breaker bar with a 1/2" socket was the best investment I ever made with tools.

[Joe Frickin' Friday]

I like that approach also. I'll be trying that out tomorrow. Thanks for all the positive comments.

 

OK, the tomorrow mentioned above was yesterday. Didja get 'em loose?

[eddd]

... Oh, and by the way i have a fabulously hot new girl friend (that's where all my energy went)...

 

Without pics...

 

Just of the girlfriend. I'll take your word on the energy part.

[Uncle Beemer]

I like that approach also. I'll be trying that out tomorrow. Thanks for all the positive comments.

 

OK, the tomorrow mentioned above was yesterday. Didja get 'em loose?

Got 'em loose and looking for some sort of anti seize to use on the lug bolts. Those babies were really corroded pretty bad.

[Uncle Beemer]

... Oh, and by the way i have a fabulously hot new girl friend (that's where all my energy went)...

 

Without pics...

 

Just of the girlfriend. I'll take your word on the energy part.

Let's just say I need my Wheaties!

[Mr. Frank]

Don't put any anti seize on the lugs. The torque values are for clean and dry threads. Using anti seize can stretch the bolts when you over tighten. You also could have them back out. It's a lot of work, but get a wire brush and clean the thread as best as possible. The threads that the bolts go into are probably pretty rusted, too.

[Selden]

I guess that is why I have that plug I bought from you 9 years ago in the middle of my wheel.

Photo? I'm assuming this is different than the cap that pries out of the center of the wheel, providing access to the lug bolts.

[Boffin]

I guess that is why I have that plug I bought from you 9 years ago in the middle of my wheel.

Photo? I'm assuming this is different than the cap that pries out of the center of the wheel, providing access to the lug bolts.

 

The 1150 does not have the cover fitted to the 1100. There is an open hole in the wheel centre for which after-market plugs are available.

 

Andy