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2000 1150GS 55k miles


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I'm in the hunt for another bike. Found a 2000 1150GS with 55k miles The askimg price is $5500. I would appreciate insight, I'm not too familiar with this bike and things to look for/be aware of.

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Well you have had an 1150RT, but yours was a twin spark and the GS will be a single spark, so test tide to see if you would have problems with the potential 'surging'.


I'm sure folk will 'chime in' with specific GS things, but to get you going:


The brakes will be different from your RT and the ABS can be turned off.


a/. Bike on centrestand, front wheel off the ground. Turn steering - Any notchiness (steering head bearings defunct)?

b/. Check wiring looms around the steering headstock, check outer insulation not damaged AND that cable ties not too tight (may have already caused damage to ignition wiring).

c/. Again, front wheel off the ground, does the front wheel spin without any notchiness (the brakes of course will rub, but you are checking wheel bearings. A pain to replace).

d/. Spin the wheels, any buckles or run out (the wheels can be damaged quite easily).

e/. Check Tyres for cracking, crazing, wear & Date of manufacture. Check valve stem for perishing/damage too.

f/. What state are the discs in? is the rear worn beyond service limit? Check wear on brake pads too.

g/. Do the headlights (main & dip ) work

h/. Do you get any ABS warning lights - check bulbs are fitted!

i/. Then, do the ABS & General warning lights go off after initialisation? and try deselecting the ABS.

j/. Any sign of swelling in any of the brake hoses (with ignition on and servo initialised and brake lever and pedal pushed on hard).

Also inspect the Master cylinder windows to see colour of Hydraulic fluid (it shouldn't be black) & check level.

Check aslo the Rear brake reservoir fluid for the same.

k/. Is there any play in the rear wheel. (Checking for crown wheel wear and/or FD pivot wear).

l/. Does the centrestand retract easily (pivot problems are not rare).

m/. Check spokes are OK and not loose.

n/. Does the starter motor crank nicely?

o/. On cold start up, does it clatter badly, and clatter should dissapear by about 2 seconds after start (Cam chain tensioner problems). Any smoke on cold start up.

p/. Does the bike ride smoothly on very steady throttle (no surging).

q/. When you ride it is there any transmission whine (there shouldn't be).

r/. Engine hot, find steep uphill engage 6th at about 60mph & nail the throttle, repeat for 5th & 4th. Any clutch slip?

s/. Any smoke from exhaust after test ride (when throttle is blipped).

t/. When was FD & Transmission oil last changed? what colour was it?

u/. Check the preload adjuster on the rear shock. Does it give any preload adjustment for the first 1/4 of its complete adjustment? If not, it will need refilling or replacing.

v/. NA

w/. Remove both seats & inspect underneath, are all the tools in the tool roll. Does the seat locking mechanism work OK?

x/. When was alternator belt last changed?

y/. What receipts are there for bike, any clues of past troubles, as seller direct questions about ANY faults or conditions.

z/. Check indicators work & cancel & hazards operate, Horn works (both if fitted), Heated grips on both settings, Headlight adjuster operates correctly, front and rear brakes operate the brake light.

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--- I'm not too familiar with this bike and things to look for/be aware of.


Morning James


First off beware of the seller. OK, I will say it again one more time “beware of the seller”.

There are a lot of people out there with enough mechanical ability to cover up about any motorcycle problems good enough to fool all but the most technically savvy.


If from a dealer get a written guarantee that all defects will be covered at least for 90 days or so. If they won’t then walk away quickly.


If buying from a private seller look at the bike at that persons house or residence. If they won’t allow that again walk away.


Talk with the seller in depth. Would you loan money to this guy? If not then why would you buy a bike from him.


Look at his house, look at his other vehicles, look at his other play toys, look at his tools and general living areas. If everything else he owns is a mess and neglected why would you think that nice shinny bike sitting there was treated any differently during it pre-fix up/pre shine-up/pre cover-up to sell life.


Sure, look the bike over but unless you have the qualifications to know fluff from substance get a BMW technician to go over the bike before buying. If the seller won’t agree to that then again walk away.


Just remember it ever so easy to take a real piece of junk and make it look appealing to a geeked up potential buyer. Especially one that has only been looking at that brand of bike for a very short time.


If possible take a person that is very familiar with the model you are looking at with you. It’s easy to fool a non model owner but much more difficult to fool a person that has owned one for a while.


Personally I would rather buy a bike with a puddle of oil under it and a seller that points to that puddle and says yep it leaks that’s why I’m selling it, than from a guy that has all the answers you want to hear and is covering up the major issues up with double talk, bubble gum, and fresh wax.


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Hey James, here looks to be a nice 04 GSA. More money & doesn't tell ya the milage but, the twin spark motor is a good thing. I love the black & yellow paint on that model.




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That paint scheme is nice.


Thanks for the advice. It looks like I will have a new (to me) bike in the driveway tuesday. When I went back to look at the 2000 I found a 1995 GS. I'll post pics and details once the deal goes thru.

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Swweeeeeet! James has a bike again........ROOOAAAAAD TRIIIIIP!


YES!! Once I make sure everything is squared away with the bike and put a couple miles on it let's meet in Winchester and head into W.Va!


Also..My goal is to do all the work on it (with the guidance of my favorite shade tree mechanic) so make sure the basement is clean. I require neat accomodations after a day of wrenching in your garage!

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Andy S. Thanks for the list. Some stuff I had thought of and a lot I hadn't. I'm printing it now to make sure I don't forget something!


I'm heading in in the morning to check out the 2000 and the 1995 a little more in depth. The price on the '95 is very attractive, but the 2000 is in better shape and has a few more farkles.


So basically it comes down to...I'm going to buy one...or not. I might just go ahead and buy the '95 then once I can afford a nicer bike I'll just keep it around as a "toy"

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The two big things you need to worry about on that bike are the clutch splines and the big bearing in the final drive. At 55K miles the clutch splines would have gone already if they were bad. Ask about clutch replacement or transmission work. Pass if either one has had issues.


Someone already covered the FD issue. Ask the owner. Pass if there has been a previous problem.


Edit: If those things are good-to-go, that's a good price.

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If buying from a private seller look at the bike at that persons house or residence. If they won’t allow that again walk away.


I have read a bunch of magazine articles that recommend against that for the seller. YOu don't want a potential thief to know where you store your bike. Probably not a problem for a beemer, but something to consider.

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Glenn Reed
My garage is a mess.

My bike isn't.



My bike currently IS the mess in my garage


I've seen it, and it ain't pretty!


It didn't keep Keith from helping me get my rear shock changed and LED brake and tail lights installed last week though.


Thanks Again!

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FWIW, I ride a nearly identical bike: '00 R1150GS. Mine has been to Alaska twice and forced to do things in Mexico that no BMW should ever be subjected to, and it has been flawless. Nothing has ever failed on it no matter how many miles a day in rain, snow, desert heat, or deep washboarded sand (but I am known to "over-maintain" my bikes). I also carry significant spare parts when out in the boonies, but have not yet needed to use any of them when on a trip.


I did wear out my rear brake pads once in British Columbia. No brakes pads for my bike available in Prince George BC, so I had to remove the caliper and ride home without a rear brake. My bad, not the bike's.


I took the luggage off it and embarrased a few sportbike riders on Mines Road Saturday. What fun. I could have ridden my "sporty" bike, but Mines Road is very poorly paved in places and the GS just does better on loose and damaged pavement than the VFR does.

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One of the bigger problems with the '95-'96 oilheads was the M94 transmission. Unless it's been rebuilt by one of a few experts (e.g. Tom Cutter) it will probably have problems. The M97 transmission in the 2000 was much improved.

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Actually the M97 was an update to the five speed tranny. It came out in 1997. The six speed tranny in the 2000 R1150GS is a step forward in useability and a step backward in reliability.

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You're right of course. I keyed off the MY 2000 not that it was an 1150. RT's were still 1100 five speeds in 2000, GS's got the motor and tranny upgrade at least a model year sooner. In any case, I would avoid the 95-96 years due to the M94 transmission.

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RT's were still 1100 five speeds in 2000


And in 2001 as well... I had a 2001 RT and it was a fiver. My 02 RT switched to a six speed.

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  • 2 weeks later...
He got shot down by the Mrs....... :rofl:


Tis so Tis so! I've got a couple tricks up my sleeve yet.


There WILL be another bike in my life SOON!

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And yes Keith..I'm taking your advice next time. "Easier to beg forgiveness then it is to ask permission!"



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