Bar Risers for 2010 RT - what works?

[Ozonewanderer]

I'm convinced I need bar risers for my '10 RT to alleviate the pain between my shoulder blades. Ilium has a set of bar risers for the 2010 RT, and they include an extended front brake line. I do not have the wrenching knowledge to install a brake line myself; my dealer says he will install them for $240!

 

There are many vendor offerings for RT risers, and most of them claim that they work with the stock cables. However, I'm wondering if they work for the 2010 RT. Another important factor is that the handlebar bolt pattern is different on the '10 from prior years.

 

Who has installed bar risers for a 2010-11 RT, what model, and do they work with the stock cables as claimed? Do you recommend them?

 

Thanks for your insights.

[dirtrider]

Afternoon Art

 

You can use the earlier 2005-2009 risers as the bolt pattern is the same on the 3 bolts your 2010 uses as the same 3 bolts on the earlier handlebars. That 4th hole is covered so can’t be seen.

 

I can’t help you of IF the brake and clutch line will work from you 2010 bike with what risers.

 

BUT-- If the risers move the bars BACK very much you will probably need a new brake line though. Clutch line seems to have a bit more slack.

 

[macx]

I just put Ilium Works risers / bar backs on my 2011 RT.

 

I read up on the issue some and what I read seemed to indicate the issue that dirtrider mentioned - that of the brake and clutch lines.

 

I wanted to go up and back as far as possible, and had read that the ones that moved the bars the furthest needed a longer brake line. Ilium Works provides a high quality Steiger line with their kit.

 

I put them on a couple weeks ago, then the following Sat took a 425 mile jaunt and I think that reasonably well qualifies me to judge their effectiveness, at least for my needs. I'm old, not the best back, and all that. Before I installed them, a 50 mile ride would start to make my shoulders & upper back uncomfortable, and my elbows would get sore from having to keep them mostly straight.

 

All that has pretty much disappeared with the Iliums. The 425 miles in 1 day left me feeling like I wouldn't have minded riding some more.

 

They cost more becuz of the brake line, but if you feel you want to move the bars, why spent 3/4 of the money to move them 1/2 as much or so?

 

I found the brake line wasn't that big of a deal to install, and the bleeding for the front brakes was a very straightforward normal bleeding process. I didn't have any help so bought a cheap ($25) Harbor Freight brake bleeder / vacuum pump kit that worked SO much better than trying to squeeze the brake lever and turn the bleeders all at the same time, especially on the left side. One little trick I did to keep air bleeding past the screws under vacuum was to screw them nearly all the way out, using paper towels around the screw to soak up seepage, then I coated the bleed screw threads with thread sealer and screwed them back in. Even under 10" of vacuum I got no bubble at all with the screws closed. The bleeder kit uses dark rubber, so I used a small hose mender and added in a short length of soft plastic tubing so I could see if bubbles came out and when they stopped. Worked like a charm. If you're careful with the process and don't overbleed, a pint will do it.

 

Turning the bars all the way left made it fairly easy to get at the lower end of the line and the junction block and mounting. Studying it and planning your moves and a little patience helps a lot. You need a T35 torx for the fitting at the master cyl, and the master cyl needs to be removed to get the torx into the screw. Removing the mstr cyl is simple, only 2 small torx screws. If yours is like mine, you have a really small bleed screw on the mstr cyl itself just above where the brake line hooks in. Stroke of genius! That was the key to getting an easy and successful bleed.

 

I have bar backs on my 04 1150R so knew how much that improved the riding position, so didn't hesitate when I found my shoulders and elbows getting sore.

 

IMHO very well worth it!

 

Even moving the bars that far back, there's still plenty of slack in the clutch line. The only thing I did was to use a small wire tie to tie up the bundle of wires along the top of the left fork tube just a little to keep them from binding on the tube during a full right turn. I tied them up about an inch higher than where they were hanging with the bars straight ahead.

 

 

[hopz]

There are two other options that might work for you... well three more but I will mention number three last.

 

Illium stuff is good but spendy. Suburban Machinery also makes risers that people like a lot and they do the job of getting higher- but not back- without using new brake lines. Suburban Machinery things are a little spendy too- but not like Illium.

 

Mototechniques go Up and Back too, at even less cost... still no new lines needed.

 

Door number three involves learning how to get your body in shape and how to sit on a motorcycle. Cost is zero but takes longer and involves breaking old habits. Some can do this, some cannot.

 

If you are in interested in this approach, Google MYRP... Master Yoda Riding Position, as well as search on this forum.

 

T

[Ozonewanderer]

There are two other options that might work for you... well three more but I will mention number three last.

 

Illium stuff is good but spendy. Suburban Machinery also makes risers that people like a lot and they do the job of getting higher- but not back- without using new brake lines. Suburban Machinery things are a little spendy too- but not like Illium.

 

Mototechniques go Up and Back too, at even less cost... still no new lines needed.

 

Door number three involves learning how to get your body in shape and how to sit on a motorcycle. Cost is zero but takes longer and involves breaking old habits. Some can do this, some cannot.

 

If you are in interested in this approach, Google MYRP... Master Yoda Riding Position, as well as search on this forum.

 

T

 

Thanks for the info. I am convinced I need bar risers. MYRP is the first thing I tried. After all the price is right!

 

I do crunches and push ups. I even got Techspec tank pads to help me hug the tank with my knees (and they look great and aid in cornering). However I still get the pain in my upper back. I may have arthritis there. I hate getting old...

[kurt1305]

I used the Helibar risers on my 2011 RT. They are up and back about an inch each way. No issues with cables or lines.

 

http://www.helibars.com/product/r1200rt

[Eye]

I installed the Mototechniques risers on my 2010RT. They put the bars up and back about an inch. It made quite a difference. They were easy to install, relatively inexpensive, and did not require new cables.