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2006 RT - First time I'm going to bleed the brakes! HELP!


RedMac

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So.. I've bled brakes on plenty of other bikes and cars. It all seems pretty straightforward. But this servo ABS on this RT makes me a bit nervous.

 

Just to verify.. is this the proper procedure?

 

http://users.rcn.com/dehager/service/service_abs3.pdf

 

Also.. best brake fluid to use? (Other than BMW, dealer too far away, I'd rather buy locally). In the past for my cars I use Valvoline synthetic.

 

Have to ask that because I remember YEARS ago (more than I care to admit), I did brake flush on my old MG and it uses "natural rubber seals" apparently you had to use a different brake fluid or it corrodes the seals. Ended up having to redo the seals in the entire brake system after that fiasco.

 

I'm a pretty decent wrench and at this point do all my own service (that doesn't require a BMW computer). But the brake thing makes me a bit sketchy. Just want to verify that it is the correct procedure to follow...

 

Note - I have a vacuum bleeder... (mityvac I believe)

 

TIA.

Mike

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Morning Mike

 

That bleeding procedure is for a 1150 I-ABS system. About the same as yours in function but still slightly different. I think you will find the controller fill caps slightly different. I’m not sure on the wood block thickness applying to your hexhead (I never use those). I just pry the pads all the way back to move the caliper pistons all the way into the calipers then slide wedges in between the pads and rotors to hold them there.

 

There was also a service bulletin revising the bleed procedure for the control side by eliminating needing to do the crossover passages. Not sure if that still applies to the hexhead or not (I don’t see why it wouldn’t)

 

There is also a warning in the hexhead RepRom to NOT use a vacuum extraction on the control side. On the wheel side there is no need for vacuum extraction as that is done using the pump servo to force the fluid through the system.

 

 

Sorry I don’t have a written procedure for your hexhead— It is close to what you have referenced in your post but I would suggest you try to find the procedure specifically for your hexhead I-ABS system if you haven’t bled an I-ABS system before.

 

That Valvoline brake fluid you referenced will be just fine. Any quality fluid meeting DOT 4 or Dot 3 specs will work.

 

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Go to the ADVRider forum and search on Jim von Baden. Buy his EXCELLENT DVD (about $25) which takes you step by step in video mode thru everything on the R1200xx bikes including the servo abs brakes.

Best investment I EVER made for this bike!

Regards

Bernd

 

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CoarsegoldKid

Somewhere on this board there is a tutorial on this procedure. Although my understanding of the R1150 integral braking is different from the '06 R1200RT the servo and wheel system bleeds are identical from what I have seen at a tech day. The wooden blocks are the same. The funnel is the same. I read through the info you sited a few years back and don't remember if they used something to prevent the front master from squirting fluid but you might want to lay a razor blade over the hole in the master to be on the safe side. Take it out with a magnet. And as for fluid use Dot 4 spec according to the master cylinder cover. Valvoline is fine(you're going to do this every few years) a contrasting colored fluid seems to me to be a good idea but I have never used it. And it costs more and usually not local. Bye they way I bleed my '05 R1200RT brakes on two year cycles. The new stuff I put in looks just a clear as the old stuff that comes out. But I'm not hard on brakes either. I hope this helps.

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Last winter I completed my first bleed on my 06RT with the JVB video, and help from folks on this forum. I was intimidated by it first, but it worked out great. Most of the work is the tank removal.

 

My suggestions are to get the Speedbleeders, get the mini-Stan from Beemer Boneyard, get the JVB DVD, and use Superblue brake fluid. It comes in a blue color, and amber color, which you can alternate between bleeds to see when all the old fluid is out.

 

If you get the mini-Stan be careful not to over tighten it...

 

Good luck

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Thanks for all the suggestions everyone. I have Jim's video but never watched the whole thing. I *now* realize the brake bleeding procedure is ON the video. Watched it last night. Seems pretty straightforward. I'll give it a shot in the next week or two. Need to put new front pads on the bike as well....

 

Thanks!

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The funnel is the same. I read through the info you sited a few years back and don't remember if they used something to prevent the front master from squirting fluid but you might want to lay a razor blade over the hole in the master to be on the safe side. Take it out with a magnet. And as for fluid use Dot 4 spec according to the master cylinder cover.

 

Since the NE tech days in the spring (It seems Like Years ago) at Samsar's house, I was tutored in the use of a Quarter and have been doing that for the brake and clutch master cylinders ever since. When Job is done I just grabbed it out with my fingers. Suppose one could use needle nose pliers or equivalent.

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If you want to learn from my (first time doing bleeding on my RT) mistakes:

 

empty the gastank as much as possible. I learned that the hard way.

pay close attention how the fuel lines and electrical wires are routed to the fuel tank. I can't recall if I used one or two tall canister DOT 4 brake fluid. I thin one was not enough.

Be very gentle with the fuel line quick connectors.

 

I also have a migty-vac the big one 2.5 gall? I used a migty vac not to do the bleeding procedure but let the old fluid drain into the mightyvac , then use the vacuum to empty the clean tubes after I closed the valves at the caliper. I just minimize the amount of brake fluid dripping on the floor.

 

I also used the migty vac to empty the reservoirs first, front rear and ABS.

I do this on the cars. stir up the settlement with the hose. Suck out the ALL dirty fluid from the reservoir, fill reservoir with clean brake fluid, proceed with bleeding.

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