KDeline Posted May 23, 2011 Share Posted May 23, 2011 I probably know the anwser but want to bounce it off more knowledgeable people. Just change fluid like I have the last 100 times. Now the handle will be fairly hard if I pull fast. If I pull very slow it will bottom out. If I pull fast it will be hard and as I continue to pull the handle will slowly reach the grip. I used brake fluid from a resealed container that was about a year old. So did I get air in the system or did the break fluid get water or otherwise contaminated from not being factory sealed? It's just a plastic bottle. What do they mean anyway when the say use only fluid from a sealed container? Factory sealed? I would be wasting a lot of fluid if that is the case and I have done that lots of times. Link to comment
dirtrider Posted May 23, 2011 Share Posted May 23, 2011 Afternoon KDeline What bike are you working on? Does it feel different now than it did before the bleeding? I doubt it’s a water problem as moisture only makes a difference for long term corrosion and can turn to steam under repeated sever braking events. Otherwise the moisture just stays suspended in the fluid. Knowing the bike (actually ABS system type) can tell us a little more so that is probably the thing we need answered. Link to comment
KDeline Posted May 23, 2011 Author Share Posted May 23, 2011 R1100RTP, 98, and it started after I did the bleed, so I think I got air in the line. I have read there is a bleed nipple under the tank on this bike, at a controller? The reason I ask is because befor storing a different 98 R1100RT in a florida shed during the summer brake was working fine. When I got back in the fall the brake lever was spongy, after a normal bleed, it was fine. Link to comment
Danny caddyshack Noonan Posted May 24, 2011 Share Posted May 24, 2011 There's a bleed valve on the ABS controller. One for front and one for rear. You can probably trap a bubble in there. Link to comment
Dave Faria Posted May 24, 2011 Share Posted May 24, 2011 If you do get air in the control circuits how do you get the air out. I am very careful during a fluid change but do make mistakes like everyone else. What is the BMW method for getting air out of the system from the ABS unit up the hand brake master cylinder. Link to comment
dirtrider Posted May 24, 2011 Share Posted May 24, 2011 If you do get air in the control circuits how do you get the air out. I am very careful during a fluid change but do make mistakes like everyone else. What is the BMW method for getting air out of the system from the ABS unit up the hand brake master cylinder. Morning Dave Kdeline has an 1100 so that means an ABS-2 system. The later 1150’s use the I-ABS systems and those are the ones with the control & wheel circuits. So this won’t help Kdeline solve his problem. If you are inquiring about this for your bike please start a new thread so we don’t start mixing ABS-2 and I-ABS info in the same thread and really start confusing things for him and future readers. Link to comment
Dave Faria Posted May 24, 2011 Share Posted May 24, 2011 Didn't there was a difference. Sorry Link to comment
AndyS Posted May 24, 2011 Share Posted May 24, 2011 Didn't know there was a difference. Sorry Yes, the 1100(using ABS-2) uses continuous fluid connection between the master cylinder and the callipers, whereas the 1150 (using i-abs), the master cylinder connects to the servo unit and operates valves which then power a totally isolated system from the Servo unit down to the calliper. Link to comment
KDeline Posted May 25, 2011 Author Share Posted May 25, 2011 There's a bleed valve on the ABS controller. One for front and one for rear. You can probably trap a bubble in there. Do we know which is which? I think I remember seeing that when I had the tank off. Link to comment
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