what to look for in a used RT

[Eckmann]

I have been looking at a few RT's now 1100's and 1150's. Each one I listen to it running, check that there is no oil leaks and that the brakes and tyres look ok, under the mirrors to see if the fairing is chipped. I ask about battery, starter motor and clutch issues. I look at log books, tool kits, check that the radio works (usually not) but just to see what the owner has to say about it. Anything else I should be checking as a matter of course?

 

I do intend to ride whatever I buy before I buy it.

[AndyS]

Has the HES been replaced? when?

Service history?

What colour is the oil?

Check the FD for movement (and establish if it is pivot bolt wear or crown wheel bearings).

Inspect rear subframe for cracking (overloaded rear carrier).

Check front wheel rotation and movement (bearings are a little bit of a pain).

Disc condition, plus wear of the bobbins.

Brake pad wear condition.

Does the ABS work 1100 & 1150.

Does the servo and idiot lights work as they should (1150).

When was battery last replaced?

Is there much side to side movement of gear lever (can indicate a cracked pivot bore due to a fall over).

Check engine casings for scratches.

Does the bike go onto centrestand easily?

Does it come of stand OK and retract fully?

Are the black side panels all in place? (the little projections that locate in gromets have often broken off - not the end of the world).

Does the milage trip device zero the trip readback?

Does the headlight adjuster work.

On centrestand, check steering head bearings.

Check indicators, dip beam, main beam, parking lights, tail light, brake light 9and operation via front & rear levers).

Horn, all idiot lights.

When was alternator belt last replaced.

What accessories have been fitted / removed? Windshield motor works correctly over full range.

Any sign of fairing damage due to exhaust temp.

Do the brakes feel OK and operate as they should.

Does the ABS work when you try emergency stop?

Seat height adjuster works correctly.

Centrestand is not fractured where extension piece comes to join the mainstand leg.

Centrestand moves freely.

Sidestand is not bent and moves freely. the toe extension is not broken.

Check for oil leaks

Does engine start & Idle OK?

Is it noisy at idle, does this noise go away almost immediately? (cam tensioner filling up).

Does it smoke a lot?

Does it continue to smoke after initial start up.

Test ride.

On completion of test ride does it smoke when re started?

Is it a twin spark 1150? if so, has the stick coils ever been replaced? Check condition of stick coils. Remove them and see if the tubular body is corroded. If it is and shows any sign of swelling, the coil could be intermittent or impending failure.

Does the bike shift smoothly (compare with other models if you have no reference point).

Is the engine smooth through whole rev range and does it ehhibit any surging?

 

Sidestand, clutch and gearbox interlocks work correctly.

RID works correctly for oil temp, fuel indication, Gear indicator. (all gears and correct number for relevant gear).

Heated grips work on both sides and on both temp settings.

Hazard light work.

Ignition switch works at all settings.

History of brake fluid changes?

Mileage?

 

Cosmetics all OK.

Does 1 key fit ignition, glove box, panniers & top box?

What state is luggage in?

What condition is the rest of the owners vehicles / property in.

Watch how he handles the bike to see if he is a moron.

[jjg3]

You hit the high points. I would suggest you get the newest, low mile machine you can afford. In 08 I got a 96 R/RT with 27k miles, well maintained with solid records. Within 6 month I had replaced the clutch and overhauled the transmission. The clutch was preventable, the trans was not. I will say that I had the work done by experts because at the time I had never done BMW work. I still would not attempt a trans overhaul, but I could have saved $ on the clutch. Was prepping for a trip and didn't want to learn what mistakes I'd made on the road, so I paid.

 

Whatever you get, if you get a Beemer, odds are you'll do fine. But should issues arise, come here for information before spending money.

[BluegrassPicker]

Has the HES been replaced? when?

Service history?

What colour is the oil?

Check the FD for movement (and establish if it is pivot bolt wear or crown wheel bearings).

Inspect rear subframe for cracking (overloaded rear carrier).

Check front wheel rotation and movement (bearings are a little bit of a pain).

Disc condition, plus wear of the bobbins.

Brake pad wear condition.

Does the ABS work 1100 & 1150.

Does the servo and idiot lights work as they should (1150).

When was battery last replaced?

Is there much side to side movement of gear lever (can indicate a cracked pivot bore due to a fall over).

Check engine casings for scratches.

Does the bike go onto centrestand easily?

Does it come of stand OK and retract fully?

Are the black side panels all in place? (the little projections that locate in gromets have often broken off - not the end of the world).

Does the milage trip device zero the trip readback?

Does the headlight adjuster work.

On centrestand, check steering head bearings.

Check indicators, dip beam, main beam, parking lights, tail light, brake light 9and operation via front & rear levers).

Horn, all idiot lights.

When was alternator belt last replaced.

What accessories have been fitted / removed? Windshield motor works correctly over full range.

Any sign of fairing damage due to exhaust temp.

Do the brakes feel OK and operate as they should.

Does the ABS work when you try emergency stop?

Seat height adjuster works correctly.

Centrestand is not fractured where extension piece comes to join the mainstand leg.

Centrestand moves freely.

Sidestand is not bent and moves freely. the toe extension is not broken.

Check for oil leaks

Does engine start & Idle OK?

Is it noisy at idle, does this noise go away almost immediately? (cam tensioner filling up).

Does it smoke a lot?

Does it continue to smoke after initial start up.

Test ride.

On completion of test ride does it smoke when re started?

Is it a twin spark 1150? if so, has the stick coils ever been replaced? Check condition of stick coils. Remove them and see if the tubular body is corroded. If it is and shows any sign of swelling, the coil could be intermittent or impending failure.

Does the bike shift smoothly (compare with other models if you have no reference point).

Is the engine smooth through whole rev range and does it ehhibit any surging?

 

Sidestand, clutch and gearbox interlocks work correctly.

RID works correctly for oil temp, fuel indication, Gear indicator. (all gears and correct number for relevant gear).

Heated grips work on both sides and on both temp settings.

Hazard light work.

Ignition switch works at all settings.

History of brake fluid changes?

Mileage?

 

Cosmetics all OK.

Does 1 key fit ignition, glove box, panniers & top box?

What state is luggage in?

What condition is the rest of the owners vehicles / property in.

Watch how he handles the bike to see if he is a moron.

 

HOLY CR@P! I better check my bike!

 

[Eckmann]

Thats pretty comprehensive AndyS. Thanks mate

[Phil50]

There was a period when R1150RTs had a problematic ABS modulator. I was told, by the dealer, when mine failed after the warranty ran out that this was a common problem. BMW paid for the parts (well over 1000 GBP) as a good will gesture.

 

Mine is an 03 bike so it might be worth asking the question if the ABS modulator has been changed and when. Others here may know the manufacturing dates to look out for.

 

Although my bike is very low mileage I've also had a new HES, new starter and new battery.

 

I speculate that some of the issues I've had are in part because of lack of use. The moral of this story is just because a bike is clean and shiny with low miles does not mean it will have no problems.

 

Good luck

 

Phil

[Eckhard Grohe]

Some 02 1150's have a spline wear issue!!!!!! Stay away from that model year.