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BMW Full Synthetic vs. Mobil One


Mark Mayo

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I am near my 36,000 mile oil change. Bike is a 2004 R1150RT and it is running as well as I could want. I have been using BMW Full synthetic and have a gallon of Mobil One of similar viscosity ranges. Is this wise to go with the less expensive oil?

 

The bike and I in Los Olivos on a trip to Big Sur last weekend.

 

MarkinLosOlivos.jpg

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russell_bynum

Less expensive doesn't necessarily mean "not as good."

 

Mobil 1 is good stuff. I use it in the BMW cage, and ran it for 60K miles on my R1100RT.

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Afternoon Mark

 

Don’t let price become a choosing point as that is not in any form an indicator of oil quality. It’s mainly an indicator of how many people get rich along the way.

 

Don’t forget that on the BMW oil both BMWNA and the dealer need to pretty well double their money.

 

If you have the correct Mobil 1 oil there is good possibility that is a better based oil than the BMW synthetic.

 

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Just remember, BMW does not make oil. They use somebody's synthetic oil that is packaged with their brand and you pay plenty for the brand.

 

Mobile 1 is good, there are other synthetic oils out there at a lower price too, just compare the specs.

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This is $8.50 at A&S BMW, could be more or less at your local dealer. Claims on the bottle is marketing double-talk intended to create anxiety about using any other oil in your BMW. I'll save $2 a quart and get Mobil 1 (or comparable) at Walmart.

bmwoil.jpg

 

 

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Dennis Andress

Wow, an oil thread. How long has it been this time?

 

Oil manufactures grade the protection offered by their products using the American Petroleum Institute (API) service class. Your owners manual will specify which class your bike requires. You can use oil at or above that specification i.e. the SM spec is above the SJ When you buy oil, look for a symbol similar to the one below.

 

Mobil 1 is good oil. Over the years I've moved to Shell Rottela T. It's made for diesel engines, meets the SJ API class, and Walmart carries it at $20 a gallon.

 

 

This doesn't apply to your bike as it has a dry clutch. Motorcycles with a wet clutch should not use oils with the words "Energy Conserving" in the class spec. They contain additives which will cause the clutch to slip. Practically speaking, this includes most oils above the SJ spec.

 

ubbthreads.php?ubb=download&Number=5591&filename=oil.jpg

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Their is a guy over on ADVrider that has somewhere between 400 and 500k miles on his GS, without any engine problems, all of it on Mobil 1, and with full length change intervals. All the testing I have ever read rates it at or near the top of the list.

 

I use it in everything I own, in different viscosities. I generally run my cars at least 250 to 300k miles without any consumption indicating wear. YMMV.

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cris nitro

 

 

If you have the correct Mobil 1 oil there is good possibility that is a better based oil than the BMW synthetic.

 

DR; what is the "correct" Mobil 1 oil. I have just turned 12,000 miles on my RT and am ready to switch over to synthetic. I have been running Castrol GTX 20/50 till now.

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Evening Bob

 

Well that is difficult to answer. -- The 20w50 Mobil-1 V twin has always been a real good (actually excellent) motorcycle oil as it has a very high content of ZDDP anti wear additives. This oil still meets or exceeds the old API SG/SH ratings. (this would be my choice if price wasn’t a issue)

 

 

The Silver cap 15w50 Mobil-1 is (was last time I checked anyhow) a decent motorcycle oil as it has well over 1000 ppm of Zinc as well a pretty decent Prosperous content. While technically this oil isn’t rated as meeting API SG/SH it contains about the same anti wear additives as the older API SG/SH requires. (this is good value oil for the price)

 

Has your engine stopped using oil yet? If so then either of the above Mobil-1 oil’s would work good. If it is still using a bit of oil then probably should hold off switching to synthetic until it does.

 

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My bike used a bit of oil (less than 1/4 quart) after 750 miles with some high rev twisties and a lot of freeway driving last weekend.

 

Thanks to all!

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I'll save $2 a quart and get Mobil 1 (or comparable) at Walmart.

 

Sorry for this hijack. But I went to two local Walmarts today and could not find the silver cap Mobil-1 15-50.

At the second store I was told that Walmart has discontinued the 15-50 due to low sales.

Has anyone else shopped for Mobil-1 lately? If so where have you found the best prices/availability ?

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Some Walmart's are carrying it, some aren't. The two local ones by me quit carrying it. However the store out 30 miles from me still does (Walmart in Burlington, Wisconsin). Now when I'm out that way I pick up an extra couple of containers...

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The 20w50 Mobil-1 V twin has always been a real good (actually excellent) motorcycle oil as it has a very high content of ZDDP anti wear additives. This oil still meets or exceeds the old API SG/SH ratings. (this would be my choice if price wasn’t a issue)

Our local dealer has a couple of oil test reports on their oil display on Mobil 1 V-Twin synthetic 20-50 oil. One is on an 1150GS, and the other is on a 1200GS. One bike went approx. 11,800 miles on the oil, and the other went approx. 12,600 miles. The report said the oil had 48% and 46% usability left on the oil respectively.

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Has your engine stopped using oil yet? If so then either of the above Mobil-1 oil’s would work good. If it is still using a bit of oil then probably should hold off switching to synthetic until it does.

 

If that was the case, I would still be using GTX. Of course, the OP claims my oil consumption is due to the plastic filler cap. My consumption got down to about a quart every 1,500 miles and stayed there.

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Good news. Autozone is selling Mobil 1 V twin 20-50 full synthetic for around $8 tax included NOW. The sale lasts for at least another week.

 

Bill, I still have a gallon of Mobil 1 silver for you...

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Evening Bob

 

 

Has your engine stopped using oil yet? If so then either of the above Mobil-1 oil’s would work good. If it is still using a bit of oil then probably should hold off switching to synthetic until it does.

Ok mine is still using oil, which would you reccomend?

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Evening Bob

 

 

Has your engine stopped using oil yet? If so then either of the above Mobil-1 oil’s would work good. If it is still using a bit of oil then probably should hold off switching to synthetic until it does.

Ok mine is still using oil, which would you reccomend?

 

Any that meet the specs..

I'm not trying to sound like a SA but the bike does not know or care.

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Jerry in Monument

My new-to-me '96R1100RT has a bit over 42k miles. Dealer said the oil was just changed when I bought it mid-April with 41,750, but didn't know if synthetic or dino was used.

 

Oil was a bit low last week so I added about 1/3 qt of Valvoline 5w20 dino.

 

Should I just stay with dino at this point?

 

Are there that many advantages to synthetic?

 

Could I be facing seal leaks if I switch to synth?

 

I did change the GB and FD two weeks ago. Both looked fairly fresh. Used Castrol Hypoc C API GL-5 80W-90 in both per Tom Cutter's recommendations.

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Witch_Doctor

Mobile 1 has been used in several well beaten engines, like the 2 1150GS' in Long Way Round and 1200GS' in Long Way Down, and you know they weren't changing the oil on a regular basis.

 

If I am going to spend money on synthetic, I'll buy Amsoil, $45 a gallon.

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170 downloads? Really?

 

638 downloads? Really?

 

Wow........And at least 635 of them have it on at least one oil bottle in their garage!

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This is $8.50 at A&S BMW, could be more or less at your local dealer. Claims on the bottle is marketing double-talk intended to create anxiety about using any other oil in your BMW. I'll save $2 a quart and get Mobil 1 (or comparable) at Walmart.

 

 

 

Just checked my WalMart (San Clemente). Great prices for Mobil 1 ($24.50/5 quarts). They just don't have a suitable flavor (20/50 or motorcycle).

 

Sigh...

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Walmart used to have the red cap 15-50 synth. after they pulled it I used Castrol synt 20-50 in my KTM dirtbike in the Texas mid sumer heat of 100+ degrees. the KTM is a wet clutch engine and I noticed a smooth gear shifting compared to using mobil one.

I may try that in the RT engine. Obviously it will not affect shifting in a dry clutch bike.

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If you have the correct Mobil 1 oil there is good possibility that is a better based oil than the BMW synthetic.

 

DR; what is the "correct" Mobil 1 oil. I have just turned 12,000 miles on my RT and am ready to switch over to synthetic. I have been running Castrol GTX 20/50 till now.

 

 

Keeping in mind that this is an oil thread and someone must disagree with anything someone else said, I have to say that the extra bucks for the V-Twin spec oil is wasted money - a Mobil rep told me so. There is (he said) no discernible difference in engine wear between it the regular grade M1. They make it for Harley riders, knowing that they can be sold anything if it's either shiny or said to make their bike run better. There probably aren't enough BMW riders to make a blip on their sales chart, but BMW guys are subject to the same syndrome.

 

I've had oil analyses done on my various bikes for, oh, 15 years or so. The longest I ran a tank of M1 in my R1100RT was 9k miles. The analysis said that it was suitable for further use. I never tried for any farther than that, but I still run my Harleys out to at least 7k miles and will probably do a longer run just for kicks and giggles to see what they say.

 

Pilgrim

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In the UK at one time 20w-50 was the most common oil viscosity, now it is hard to find 20w-50 particularly in supermarkets. The most common now seems to be 10w-40. I was going to change to Castrol GTX 20w-50 but they only do 10w-40 now.

 

I'm still using Castrol Act-Evo 20w-50 but I'm having to buy that on-line and having it shipped in 1L bottles. I'd like to find an oil that is reasonably priced that I can buy locally in larger containers.

 

Phil

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skinny_tom (aka boney)

Standard answer to oil threads:

 

If you change your oil according to factory specifications, buy the one that makes you happy. Your bike will love it too.

 

[/thread]

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Standard answer to oil threads:

 

If you change your oil according to factory specifications, buy the one that makes you happy. Your bike will love it too.

 

[/thr :grin: ead]

Hey! You're taking all the fun out of an oil thread! Knock that off!

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If you change your oil according to factory specifications, buy the one that makes you happy. Your bike will love it too.

 

That's the problem. Finding one that fits factory spec and makes me happy locally. If I thought I could go to 10w-40 I'd be very happy but from what I read we need the extra viscosity of 20w-50 or am I missing something.

 

Cheers

 

Phil

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In the UK at one time 20w-50 was the most common oil viscosity, now it is hard to find 20w-50 particularly in supermarkets. The most common now seems to be 10w-40. I was going to change to Castrol GTX 20w-50 but they only do 10w-40 now.

 

I'm still using Castrol Act-Evo 20w-50 but I'm having to buy that on-line and having it shipped in 1L bottles. I'd like to find an oil that is reasonably priced that I can buy locally in larger containers.

 

Phil

 

Opie Oils

 

Sign up to www.bmriders.com and get 'members discount' at opie oils.

 

Andy (no affiliation, just a satisfied customer)

 

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Are you using Motul 3000 20w-50?

 

Yes, though I also use Shell Rotella diesel oil - you will not find that at garages but it is used by the transport and buds industries.

 

Andy

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