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RID is out... AGAIN!


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Well, my display is no longer working again. My battery was due for replacement due to age and it was taking longer and longer to get the green light back on the tender after riding, My clock reset to zero when starting about a month or so ago and the RID went blank last week after turning the key. I figure the blank RID was due to low voltage on the battery. Anyway, new battery is in, but still no RID. It's backlit, but no readings are showing. This is the second RID for me. Which fuse works the RID? They all look ok, but is just want to double check the exact fuse. I imagine though that if its fuse related, it would not be backlit. Just trying for the easy stuff, before opening the dash to check connectors. Anymore ideas?


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Did you try swearing at it and beating on it?


The dash is out of my bike right now if you need to swap mine in for trouble shooting. If yours is really shot, I could take it to work, disassemble it, and give it a good once over under the microscope. It could be something as stupid as a poor solder connection.

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Mine crapped out like that a few years ago. I had nothing to lose, so I pulled it apart and sure enough, there was some corrosion on the board. Electrical cleaning spray and a toothbrush cleaned it up. It's been fine since.

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Well, I think I got it fixed for him. Won't know for sure until we throw it back on the bike tonight. His RID backlight was working, but nothing else (including the clock). Here is what I found when I opened it up.


Corrosion inside the case. It obviously got wet at some point.



Here is what the PCB looked like. Lots of corrosion. I cleaned it up and reflowed all of the affected solder joints, but I still couldn't get it to come alive.



Then I flipped the board over and found this. More corrosion, but this was bad enough to have eaten completely through the trace.



I cleaned it up and used a small piece of resistor lead to patch the broken trace. After poking around with my multimeter and looking at the traces, I figured out that this is the 12V trace that supplies voltage to most of the PCB. Now it makes sense why nothing was working :grin:


All fixed up



For future reference for anyone.......here is the pinout for the RID


1 Gear position switch

2 Gear position switch

3 Gear position switch

4 Ground

5 +12V

6 Switched +12V

7 Engine temp connection

8 Fuel level connection


Applying +12V between pin 4 and pin 5 should allow the clock to become active, and then I used a 1K ohm resistor (to protect the circuitry in case I was wrong) to jumper the +12V to pin 6. This activated the back lighting for the RID. So now I have the clock and backlight. I don't want to fiddle around with it any more than that until I plug it into the bike to see if everything else works. If it does, I'm going to probe the connections to get a better idea of exactly what the RID needs to be completely alive and active.


I know pins 1, 2, and 3 need to be grounded for the RID to think the bike is in neutral, but I'm not sure exactly what should be coming through pins 7 and 8. I'm assuming something between 0-12V, but I'm not about to just start feeding random voltages into a good RID until I know for sure.


Will follow up with whatever we find out tonight.

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Well, yet another bind that Keith bailed me out of. Apparently, water got into the housing and sat in the bottom long enough to cause the damage seen above. We plugged it in and it lit up like a Christmas Tree. Thanks buddy, I owe you yet again for helping me out!

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What is it doing or not doing?


Its very easy to disassemble and check it out yourself. If that gives you the willies, then I would consider checking it out if you wanted to mail it to me. Only took about 10 minutes to get the above one fixed.

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Thanks for the advice. How do you get to the darn thing? What do I have to pull? Took her out for a post-service ride today (valve adjust, plugs, etc.) and it worked fine all day. I'm thinking it might be a sticky relay because when it fails, its always when I turn on the ignition. The clock display will be working when I turn on the ignition, and then it all goes away. This happens about 30% of the time. Maybe she just wants me to ride her more often. Many thanks..

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I doubt its a relay. There are a few switches inline that allow it to light up (side stand/gear indicator, and clutch switch), but if you were having issues with them you would be having other issues as well.


To pull the RID, All you need to do is pull the mirrors and then remove the plastic dashboard. Once you have the dash out, the RID is only held in place by two screws. They you can use a small flat head screw driver to pop off the strain relief on the back cover and then slowly work your way around the edges of the RID to separate it into two pieces. I assumed they were glued together, but actually they are just two separate pieces that snap together with a rubber gasket in between. Good design as long as the gasket does its job.....but that obviously doesn't always happen. The PCB is then held in place be 5-6 smaller phillips head screws.


That should at least give you a good look if you have any corrosion.

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That sounds easy enough. Will give it a go. Today when I first started her this morning, the RID refused to work. After about an hour of riding and a coffee break, all was ok for the rest of the day. I suspect a high resistance connection somewhere.

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  • 4 months later...

Michael....I sent you a return email, but to put it out there for the general public. You can use standard electrical contact cleaner from a place like Radio Shack, or even something as simple as rubbing alcohol. Apply it with either a small parts cleaning brush, old toothbrush, or a Q-tip. Assess the damage, and then repair it with small strands of wire. I actually used the clipped end off of a standard resistor to repair the trace.

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  • 2 years later...
You're lucky I work for beer


Let me know when you want to go Tiger riding :grin:


Thanks for the input...I am well versed in PCB repair,but need some pointers as to HOW to get the plastic case taken apart....!

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Galactic Greyhound

Thanks for the input...I am well versed in PCB repair,but need some pointers as to HOW to get the plastic case taken apart....!


R1100RT RID_Disassembly Issue: 01/03/2012








1. Remove the RID from the bike by removing the inner dash panel screws. Remove the panel after disconnecting the electrical connectors. The RID connector is on the RH side inside the nose fairing behind the RID.

2. Remove the RID from the dismounted dash panel by undoing the three fixing screws.

3. Pry up the plastic cable retainer plate where the cable enters the unit and remove the cable retainer plate.

4. Release the cable from the cable entry slot.

5. Gently pry apart the black plastic backing from the clear outer face.

6. Pass the RID connector through the hole in the backing and set the backing aside.

7. Mark the circuit board position relative to the clear outer face with a marking pen.

8. Place the RID face down and unscrew the five screws holding the circuit board to the clear outer face.

9. Carefully separate the circuit board from the clear outer face so that the clock setting buttons do not get dislodged.

10. Mark the white plastic holder for the clock setting buttons so that it can be reassembled the correct way up.

11. Remove the white plastic holder with rubber buttons and set aside.

12. Mark the position of the LCD assembly relative to the front face of the circuit board with a marker pen.

13. Place the circuit board face down on top of a paper on a clean bench.

14. Using a pair of pliers, straighten out the five fixing tabs from the LCD assembly to the circuit board.

15. Gently lift the circuit board away from the LCD unit and set aside.


Dis-assembly of the LCD unit:


16. Important: Make a drawing or mark the component parts of the LCD unit relative to each other as they are removed to allow correct assembly. Note that later use of contact cleaner may remove marker pen ink.

17. Remove the metal surround frame from the LCD unit with its rubber outer gasket.

18. Remove the glass LCD unit from the clear plastic frame.

19. Remove the two conductive rubber contact strips at each side of the clear plastic frame.

20. To clean the parts, spray contact cleaner on the circuit board LCD contact pads, the contact pad sides of the glass LCD plate and the conductive rubber contact strips.

21. Re-assemble in reverse order taking care that the assembled LCD unit is properly located on the circuit board before securing with the fixing tabs.

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