Locktite and crank pulley

[Rocer]

I'm working my way through spring maintenance on the RT including updating the HES as well as cam damper, GS intake tubes, brake pads, tires, spark plugs and wires not to mention fluids and filters.

 

After re-reading the directions in the Haynes manual I realize that I didn't use locktite as recommended (non-colour defined) on the crank pulley. Can anyone give me an appropriate locktite colour for this pulley as well as a general rule for using locktite on various projects ie. when I should be using it as well as an understanding as to a general colour guide. Doing a search here on this subject leads me to believe it's kinda like starting an oil thread

 

I'd also like to add that, while I'm kinda in the boonies as far as getting any nearby hands-on help wrenching the RT, I'm appreciative of all the info I get from BMWST. Guidance from this board is like having a team of mechanics ghosting these projects right along with me in my shop. Thanks.

[dirtrider]

Morning Rocer

 

That isn’t a LocTite (thread locker) type product as you would usually think of using on an engine. It is basically a Super Glue type product.

 

Personally I use LocTite “Black Max” as that is a polymer reinforced Super Glue but about any good water resistant reinforced type Super Glue will work. Basically anything that will glue the cup to the pulley will probably work as long as it isn’t so thick that it prevents holding a proper pulley bolt torque. If too thick it can slowly squeeze out as heat and pressure effect it and cause a torque loss. (basically don’t use a trim adhesive type product)

 

 

 

[AndyS]

I have just read through my BMW manual, and it doesn't tell me to use any locking compound on that pulley.

It does however tell me to glue the HES trigger cup to the crankshaft pulley using for example loctite instant adhesive (superglue).

 

Generally if you are following the haynes guide, that will give you a steer as to if & when a locking compound should be used.

Many of us here err away from using loctite red(271) - unless it it something that really takes abuse. Generally I tend to use loctite blue (242).

[philbytx]

IIRC, there is a tab on the cup that fits in the pulley. When I R&R'd the HES on the R1100R, the cup simply fell off the pulley as I unbolted it. I just put it back the same way 11k miles ago!

 

 

 

[AndyS]

I just put it back the same way 11k miles ago!

 

 

Hi Phil, Keeping well?

Don't sghoot the messenger, I'm just quoting from the manual.

(It's also what I do - using glue that is).

Take care.

Andy

[Rocer]

Well, there you go. I didn't realize the pulley and cup were separate pieces. Mine are intact so all's well. Thanks for the input. On with the show!

[AndyS]

Nice car on your avatar

[philbytx]

Hey Andy!

Not shooting you mate...just stating what happened with mine;)!

According to the manual, perhaps I was remiss in not using Loctite. I actually had a senior moment and was getting stuck in and putting it all back and forgot it!

I reckon the Loctite was used to keep the "gate" from moving while you were assembling it all back up being as it has a locating tab.

 

No problems in over 11k miles and LeRoy runs like a raped ape !

 

Hope you and Nettie are both keeping well !

 

[Rocer]

Just to clarify, I thought Haynes was referring to the pulley bolt requiring locktite but after reading replies to my post and rereading Haynes again I gather they were referring to the cup as mentioned in the replies. At any rate, got all parts installed today and torqued to spec, fired up aRTy and he runs better than ever. Tupperware, brakes and tires yet to go. Thanks again.

 

Andy, we love the bugeye. It's part of the family. I rebuilt snugnabug from a rolling chassis. Of course you'd be familiar with bugeyes but I'm amazed at how our younger generation have no idea what it is. At stock 43 hp it's challenged by today's riding lawn mowers.