Size & thread on front brake bleed screws - 011 R1200RT?

[macx]

Looking at getting some Earl's Solo Bleeds so I can bleed my own brakes - going to get Ilium bar backs that come with a longer hose from the master cyl down to the connection.

 

Have had air bleed back problems using Speed Bleeders.

 

Per the BMW parts fiche, they're 8 mm, but they don't list the length or thread size. Earl's has 2 choices in 8mm - 8mm x 1.0 x 25 thread, or 8mm x 1.25 x 23 thread.

 

http://www.holley.com/280021ERL.asp

 

I would think Summit Racing or Jeg's would carry them.

 

Other good option might be this setup (but you can buy them for about 1/2 this cost) http://www.ascycles.com/detail.aspx?ID=1827

 

http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16343

http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP5101-One-Brake-Bleeder/dp/B00158OCR8

 

Thx!

[CoarsegoldKid]

I can't answer this but if you remove one from the bike and take it to a store that sells metric hardware you should be able to get the answer you want.

[macx]

I was trying to avoid that cuz I need to know what size they are so I can order the correct Solo Bleeds. If I remove a bleeder to check the size, I'll have to bleed now where I wouldn't have to otherwise.

 

Hopefully somebody will know and chime in.

[dirtrider]

Afternoon Macx

 

You don’t need any speed bleeders or similar. You can EASILY reach the bleed screws and the brake hand lever.

 

What works real good (better than speed bleeders in my book) is to snap a 2’ piece of clear hose on the bleeder, then place the end of that hose in a bottle on the floor filled with just enough brake fluid so the hose end is always under fluid. If you want you can use a little dob of pipe sealer on the bleeder threads to completely seal the threads but it really isn’t needed.

 

You might want to read about bleeding the I-ABS-gen/2 system here.

Brake Bleeding Info

[CoarsegoldKid]

I was trying to avoid that... If I remove a bleeder to check the size, I'll have to bleed now where I wouldn't have to otherwise.

 

Sorry I thought that bleeding was what you wanted to accomplish.

I do what DirtRider suggested.

[macx]

That's the way I've done brake bleeding for years - pump the brakes, loosen the bleed screw, plastic tubing in a jar or bottle, etc.

 

Yes, bleeding IS what I want to accomplish, but don't want to have to go thru it an extra time by removing a bleeder screw just to find out the size, and then bleed again when I install the bar backs with the longer hose.

 

I'm far from even middle age, bad knees, bad back, nobody to help, so that's why I'm wanting something that will make it easier.

 

I've used Speed Bleeders and when I didn't have sealing problems on the threads, they were the easiest way I've found to bleed the brakes, incl on my 4 cars & SUV.

 

So still looking for the thread size. I would think someone would know - the parts fiche only says 8mm, not the thread pitch.

[dirtrider]

Morning Macx

 

Not many people have worked on the 2011 RT brakes yet let alone removed the bleeder screws to measure the thread pitch. The 05-09 1200RT was 8x1.25.

 

On installing that upper front brake line. Personally I wouldn’t start the post hose bleeding from the caliper.

 

I would start by prying the front brake pads/pistons all the way in, then fully pull the front brake handle & tie strap it there (that will seal off the master cylinder), then open a caliper bleeder to let any residual pressure off, then close bleeder, then cover the entire upper front plastic and dash area with plastic bags (brake fluid will flat ruin paint and plastic dash), then open bleed valve at master cyl area, then cover the control arm and front fender area same way, then using a very absorbent rag remove the hose at the front junction block and catch the fluid, then when all the fluid is out of the upper hose plug the lower end and remove the hose.

 

Then install the new upper hose, then untie the hand lever and gravity bleed it at the hose lower end junction block, then bleed the master cylinder at the bleed screw. Then pry the front brake pads in again (to force any air in the junction block area back up the hose). Then pump the front lever while turning the handle bars back and forth.

 

This way you won’t get any air in the ABS controller area, or into internal valuing, or into the accumulator.

 

If the front lever feels good (firm) then you are good to go. If it doesn’t then ride it a while to let the air in the junction block area work it’s way up the hose then re-bleed at the master cyl bleed fitting.

 

I would only do a bleed at the lower caliper as a last resort or AFTER you have all the air out of the top hose/junction block area. You really want to try to keep from introducing any air into the ABS controller area if at all possible as that is a dickens of a place to purge the air from.

 

[Selden]

...cover the entire upper front plastic and dash area with plastic bags (brake fluid will flat ruin paint and plastic dash)...

This is the FIRST thing I do when working with brake fluid around a motorcycle. Assuming that BMW uses the same plastic (ABS?) as Honda for body panels, brake fluid can change its strength to roughly that of an oatmeal cookie in a short amount of time -- even if there is no obvious sign of damage. DAMHIK. If, despite all precautions, a spill occurs, clean the plastic with some dish washing soap and copious amounts of water to prevent catastrophic damage -- you can't just wipe the stuff off.