97 1100RT clutch adjustment

[omaharj]

Good morning! My bike has only 40K miles on her and the clutch engages only on the last 1/4" of the lever. I tried adjusting at the handlebar and then checked here using the search. I was disappointed (but not surprised) to find that it must be done at the clutch,possibly involving tools I don't have.

My thinking is perhaps the clutch is near the end of it's life and replacement may be the wiser move. The bike has a few rhousand mile trips on it and many long days. I have had a few bikes at a time so this one isn't always used regularly. I say this as most 14 year old bikes with this few miles has probably had a lot of stop and go miles,more wear on the clutch.

 

Would adjusting the clutch probably give me another 10K or should I spring for a clutch/ Here's the rub,I would do the adjustment myself (and buy tools) while a replacement would be done at a dealer. Thanks for your advice,RJ

[dirtrider]

Morning omaharj

 

I guess the bottom line on clutch replacement is IS YOUR’s SLIPPING?

 

If it isn’t now slipping then a good adjustment is the place to start. If it “is” slipping and you have some free play in the lever/cable then all the adjustment in the world won’t save it .

 

There is a lower adjustment down on the rear of the trans but as rule that won’t help the engagement point much if you can sill get the proper setting up at the hand lever.

 

On your cable system, you can move the clutch engagement point in towards the grip a bit by adding a little more lever/cable free play but if you go too far the clutch won’t release completely in neutral or on the shifts.

 

[94aero]

At 40k the clutch should not need to be replaced unless it has been abused.

I would set the correct gap at the end of the engage rod. then adjust the handle.

[Bruce (Bedford)]

Hi omaharj

My RT had 40k and I 'thought' my clutch was slipping, others whose opinion I’d asked (not RT riders) said "No, its your imagination”, however I changed the clutch over Christmas and was just in time the friction plate was just to the rivets on one side, phew!

9aero is probably quite right but I had no idea how the previous 35k had been ridden.

Adjust by the book then trust your instinct, if you think it is on its way - change it.

I did mine myself - cost about £130 (UK) I took my time and it took the best part of 4 days but I could have done it in 2 with a good workshop and a mate (at times I had to wait for my wife to be free!!)

I'd do it again without hesitation and the help you get on this forum is MASSIVE!

All the best

Bruce

 

[AndyS]

...bike has only 40K miles....clutch engages ..last 1/4" of the lever. I tried adjusting at the handlebar and then checked here using the search. I was disappointed (but not surprised) to find that it must be done at the clutch,possibly involving tools I don't have.

 

The tools you need are MUCH cheaper than a replacement clutch.

You should set it up correctly and then you know where you stand.

 

My thinking is perhaps the clutch is near the end of it's life and replacement may be the wiser move.

You will have a better feel once the clutch is adjusted and you do some trial runs on the bike to see if you can get the clutch to slip.

Would adjusting the clutch probably give me another 10K or should I spring for a clutch/ Here's the rub,I would do the adjustment myself (and buy tools) while a replacement would be done at a dealer. Thanks for your advice,RJ

Who knows how much extra time you will get from adjusting your clutch. No one can answer that question. However initially you need to get teh tools needed to adjust your clutch.

Andy

[Selden]

Good morning! My bike has only 40K miles on her and the clutch engages only on the last 1/4" of the lever. I tried adjusting at the handlebar and then checked here using the search. I was disappointed (but not surprised) to find that it must be done at the clutch, possibly involving tools I don't have.

It's tight working conditions back there, but the only "special" tools I needed were inexpensive and easy to find: a long 13mm socket (which I cut down slightly), a palm ratchet drive, which I found at Harbor Freight for $2.99, and an open end wrench (I forget which size, probably 13mm).

 

 

Use the open end wrench to loosen/tighten the lock nut, while the palm ratchet allows you to turn the adjuster bolt. This is much easier than trying to get a universal joint extension in there.

 

I have relatively small hands, so I set the free play gap a bit larger than BMW recommends. I have found that the engagement point is critical for smooth starts and shifts, and a change of as little as a quarter turn on the knurled knob at the hand lever end can make all the difference between smooth shifts and not.

 

 

[Jim Moore]

The bottom clutch adjustment is pretty easy if you have a set of metric hand tools. It requires a few panels to be taken off, but it's very straightforward.

[DavidEBSmith]

You can get to the bottom (rear) clutch adjustment on an RT without taking any tupperware off by going through the opening under the left side black side cover, and removing the power outlet if you have one.