Valve Adjustment First Time @12K Miles

[DCRT12]

Hi folks - I am in the process of doing my first valve adjustment on 2009 RT and I noticed the rocker arms, intake and exhaust valves are very tight. I could not get my .15mm on the intake and .30mm feeler gauge on the exhaust valves. I have read and followed everyone's DIY procedure of finding the TDC including using the chop stick or plastic straw to determine the TDC, I even watched and followed Jim Von Baden's DVD.

 

My question to all valve DIYs : Is this normal for a bike that is technically still being broken in with 12K on the ODO? I thought I read somewhere that these valves normally "stay" within the specified clearance.

 

In any case, I think I can safely and confidently adjust the intake and exhaust valves. What I am worried about is making the adjustment on the rocker arms end play especially the 15mm nut where Jim says "torque to 20nm, then turn 180 degrees".

 

Does that mean torque the 15mm nut past the 20nm recommended torque settings? I must be missing something here and need your expert technical advice for a "newbie" DIY doing his first valve adjustment.

 

DC

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09 RT

09 Ultra

[NewBlue]

When adjusting the valves be sure you are on TDC compression stroke for that cylinder. Rotate the engine in the normal direction and watch the intake valves when they open then close bring that cylinders piston to TDC. To do the other side just rotate the crank 180 degrees.

 

Yes that is correct 20nm plus 180 degrees total. It is an angle torque for the cylinder head. I recommend an angle torque gauge.

My manual lists it in 3 stages - 20nm, 90 degrees, 90 degrees - when doing the rocker end play adjustment.

[dirtrider]

Morning DC

 

Some valves stay put and others move a fair amount during engine break-in. In my experience the BMW boxer usually tightens the valves in it’s early break-in life. Having one or more tight valves on your 09 wouldn’t surprise me in the least. Especially if they weren’t done or were incorrectly done at the 6,000 mile check. Just make darn sure you have the side you are doing at TDC (piston at top) on COMPRESSION. That also means no depressed valves on the side you are working on.

 

One thing you can do is once you think you have TDC compression on the side you are working on is go around to the other side and look. You should see a couple of depressed valves on that side.

 

On doing the rocker arm end play. That is something you want to be real careful with. Not only can you get a rocker arm too tight you can pull a stud out of the engine block if you don’t do the torque correctly. Unless you have a blatantly loose rocker arm with lots of side play maybe better off just leaving them alone. One problem is you can’t get a feeler gauge back behind the rocker arm so if you have tight spot on the rear side you can’t tell when using a simple feeler gauge (personally I use a dial indicator for end play precision). After a (qualified) person has done a few they can actually go by feel as that is probably more accurate than using a feeler gauge. In any case you need to be able to FEEL a very slight amount of end play movement AFTER all the nuts are torqued. If you can’t feel ANY end play that one is too tight. Keep in mind that the parts move as they are torqued so you have to figure that into your initial settings.

 

It isn’t rocket science but a lot can go wrong if done incorrectly. Also be real careful on using Jim Von Baden's DVD as some of his early ones had a torque value error and some threads were stripped due to that error. Double check ALL your torque values per the BMW service manual (or ask here).

 

On your question about the: ---15mm nut where Jim says "torque to 20nm, then turn 180 degrees"-- The 20nm is just a very low INITIAL torque setting to get the nut somewhat snug, push most of the oil out of the threads, and start the stud stretching. The actual torque is WAY higher than 20 nm so the manual specifies the extra ½ nut turn.

 

The 20nm initial +180° nut turn is SO much more accurate than just giving you something like 70nm torque. At higher torque settings you just never know how much torque is overcoming nut to head friction, or nut to thread friction, and those head nut torques are mighty close to stud pulling torques so a little mistake can mean a very big problem. Also keep in mind that The 20nm initial +180° nut turn is based on oiled threads so make sure the threads are oil lubricated before torquing.

 

 

 

 

 

[CoarsegoldKid]

Unless the'09 motor is different than the '05 why not use the mark and lug on the cam chain to determine proper valve position?

[hopz]

My advice is to not even worry about the End Play adjustment. It is rare that it needs anything until you have a lot of miles on it.... call it 30k or way more.

 

The advice about TDC is excellent. You MUST know you are there on the compression stroke... meaning that both intake and exhaust valves are closed... closed means the rocker arm is not pressing the valve in/open. Normally you can see and feel this condition.

 

"Feel" means you can actually rock the rocker arms in/out enough to feel/hear it click against the end of the valve stem. But... if the valves have "stretched" enough that you cannot get the feeler in, then it may not rock at all, and this is your dilemma. You need to know you are on TDC AND Compression at the same time. Doing an adjustment when you are not on the compression stroke is fraught with peril.

 

So, using the chop stick, the visual method AND the mark on the Cam Chain... all at the same time, you can proceed.

 

You can think of the valve springs pulling against the valve stem millions of times in those thousands of miles... and visualize the valve stem getting stretched, just a little bit especially when they are new. As the stem gets longer and longer, the clearance gets smaller/less, thus tight valves.

 

Actually, there is hardly any "stretch" but this analogy helps visualize what you are (and others) are doing.

 

The reason you have read that the valves may not need much adjustment is for engines that have already "stretched" the valve stems and thus very little adjustment is needed. So, what I am saying is, After Break In is done, you MAY not need much adjustment.

 

Your engine is not broken in yet, and will not be till something in the neighborhood of 18k miles (typical),

 

Again... best to leave the end play alone. (there are good reasons for leaving it alone)- mostly to keep you from the temptation to "adjust" or in technical terms "mess" with the nut on the exhaust side.) That nut will look suspiciously like it is not run in enough. Leave it alone!

[DCRT12]

DR,

 

OK, I have been replaying the steps that I have performed regarding finding TDC and comparing it to the maintenance DVD and one big difference is the mileage between Jim’s GS and my RT. His is probably 30K plus and mine is only 12K. So perhaps leave the End Play alone is more prudent now until I reach 30K+”

 

So having said that, I will ignore my End Play clearance for now and focus on the “Intake and Exhaust” clearances and review the procedure of finding the “TDC and COMPRESSION Stroke”. I think this is where I am getting mixed up as I rotate my rear tire on 6th gear and I think I am thinking, I am on the “compression” but actually I am on the “exhaust” stroke.

 

Thank you for clarifying the TDC COMPRESSION and to look at “NO DPRESSED valves on the side that I am working on” Thank you also for clarifying to double check the “side that I am not working on and I should see a couple of depressed valves”….Wow, this really helps.

 

I appreciate eveyone’s response here as I am a first time boxer motor owner/wrencher. Been wrenching the V-twin for many years.

 

Thanks,

Dan

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09 RT

09 Ultra

[NewBlue]

I stated to adjust one side then rotate the crank 180 degrees to do the other. I was incorrect it should be rotate the crank 360 degrees then do the other side.

 

Sorry about that.

[I812]

I stated to adjust one side then rotate the crank 180 degrees to do the other. I was incorrect it should be rotate the crank 360 degrees then do the other side.

 

Sorry about that.

You are forgiven....

[DCRT12]

Got my valves adjusted last night and basically I’ve learned many valuable techniques from everyone here who performed their own valve adjustment and I would like to share my own experience for any future and aspiring DIYs…

 

1. Open/remove left and right cylinder head cover

2. Remove left and right primary spark plug

3. Shift and place the transmission gear shift to 6th gear

4. Go to the right side of the RT, looking forward, begin rotating the rear wheel in the forward motion

5. Still looking at the right side cylinder head, begin looking for the LUG on the CAM Chain to come to view

6. When the LUG on the CAM Chain is positioned or pointing outwards, toward the right side, or at 90 degree angle from your level floor—stop rear wheel rotation

7. Go to the LEFT side of your RT and inspect your intake and exhaust valves. It should be loose and ready for adjustment

8. When the left side valves are complete, go to the right side on the RT

9. Rotate the rear wheel in the forward motion and look for an ARROW mark on the CAM chain SPROCKET to point outwards, and at 90 degrees from your level floor (Basically a 180 degree rotation referencing the LUG on the CAM Chain)

10. Inspect the right side valves and if they are loose, it is ready for adjustments.

 

 

I also used the chop “stick or plastic straw” method to ascertain that I am at TDC for the left & right cylinder.

 

In Summary I believe there are three check points to ascertain that you are at the correct valve position:

 

- LUG pointing out at 90 degrees, (LEFT valves should be loose ready for adjustment)

- Check TDC using the” chopstick or plastic straw”

- Check rocker arms and for ARROW at 90 degrees, (RIGHT valves should be loose ready for adjustment)

 

Please let me know if I have missed a step or if I have any erroneous information.

 

Thanks,

Dan

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09 RT

09 Ultra

 

[Jim VonBaden]

This will walk you through the correct process: http://www.jimvonbaden.com/R1200_24K.html

 

Jim

[NewBlue]

It's one way to do it.

 

15/16" is approx 23-24mm so I don't think that socket will work.

Just Sayin

[Jim VonBaden]

Oops, need to correct that.

 

Jim

 

[NewBlue]

Oops, need to correct that.

 

Jim

 

[Jim VonBaden]

Oops, need to correct that.

 

Jim

 

"Others also report that a thin walled 16mm, or 15/16" socket works."

 

OK I won't tell them.

 

7/8" is 22mm 1" is 25.4 mm, no way 15/16" is 16mm.

You sure you mean 15/16" maybe 11/16?

 

OK, "I" need to correct that! Is that more clear?

 

Jim

[NewBlue]

Oops, need to correct that.

 

Jim

 

"Others also report that a thin walled 16mm, or 15/16" socket works."

 

OK I won't tell them.

 

7/8" is 22mm 1" is 25.4 mm, no way 15/16" is 16mm.

You sure you mean 15/16" maybe 11/16?

 

OK, "I" need to correct that! Is that more clear?

 

Jim

 

I posted before I saw your correction so I changed my post, clear?

[Huzband]

...and one big difference is the mileage between Jim’s GS and my RT. His is probably 30K plus and mine is only 12K. So perhaps leave the End Play alone is more prudent now until I reach 30K+”

 

And that is a HUGE fallacy. Mileage has NOTHING to do with end play.

 

End play is set at the factory within (hopefully) specs, & mileage has no significant wear on rocker ends. The rub is, which nobody ever brings up, the differential of the specs. Or the effects of the parameters. So let's cover the subject.

 

The factory has their prescribed specs, whether it be ring end gap, piston clearance, or end play. As long as they're within tolerance, even if it's on the loose end, it passes.

 

On a Hexhead, covering years '05-'09, factory end play is .002-.015. If you have a feeler gauge & check the difference, you'll see it's HUGE.

 

But the most important part is that you shouldn't wait for higher mileage to set end play. The earlier the better. Once you set it, you rarely have to reset it, no matter the mileage.

 

Go back in, & set your end play as close to .002 as you can get it. It won't change a significant amount with mileage, but I check mine at every valve check just to be sure. I've only adjusted one in 37,000 miles, & it was last set at 16,000.

 

The closer you are are to .002, the smoother your engine will be. It makes a bigger difference than you might think.

 

 

[Ponch]

Oops, need to correct that.

 

Jim

 

"Others also report that a thin walled 16mm, or 15/16" socket works."

 

OK I won't tell them.

 

7/8" is 22mm 1" is 25.4 mm, no way 15/16" is 16mm.

You sure you mean 15/16" maybe 11/16?

 

OK, "I" need to correct that! Is that more clear?

 

Jim

 

16mm is about 5/8"