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Hey guys just thought I'd throw this out there to share with you what happened when I removed the old race and needle bearings from my final drive. Okay well I did the former and was ready for the install of my new JL bushings and races. Before this, I cleaned and checked the surfaces where I would be seating the new races. What do you think I had the joy to see? Apparently when the BMW guy was pressing or beating in the factory race, he/she must not have done it incrementally and the race did not go in straight. What I found was a nice .005" thick wad of aluminum at the seat which is machined into the FD case. Using a caliper the depth for that seat should be about .400 inches, mine is that for 2/3's the inner diameter, the other half is .349". Bottom line, the race will not be properly seated against the shoulder and will be cocked, thereby over time it will wear and deteriorate prematurely. For all I know, this may be why I had play in the wheel when I checked it at the 3 and 9 oclock positions.


Have any of you seen or had this happen and found a fix at home for it? I'm thinking of touching it up with a dremel tool and cutting head but one slip and you know what. This is on a 2002 R1150RT and Motard would probably not entertain any plea's for help or warranty work although it is obvious that it was a factory goof.

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Afternoon GO1150RT


Can’t say as I have seen that on a BMW but sure have on some automotive aluminum casting with pressed in bearings.


With it being shaved from the side then that lump shouldn’t be firmly attached to the bottom of the bearing bore so you might be able to trim it out with something like an Exacto knife. If that won’t do it then maybe a piece of thin wall pipe cut lengthwise then the end sharpened to make a cutter to drive in and cut that piece out.


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I already tried using and exacto knife and the metal is really packed hard and thick int he base or shoulder where the race would seat against, right in that little 90 degree corner. I wonder if I could find something the exact same size as the machined hole, like a socket so I could use lapping compound to slowly grind it out by hand. I am going to try using the dremel on slow speed, get a good magnifier and try to grinf out the offending blob. I hope this is not going to be a common thing at BMW, that is moron quality that we have found to be common place here in the US.

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Try to find a 3 corner scrapr at an engineering supplies place, or maybe try a small wood chisel ( 1/4" or less ).


I would hold off grinding as a very last resort, using a socket could very easily allow grinding paste to wick up the sides and destroy the fit of the bushes in the swing arm ( creating worse problems )


Good luck

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I used my dremel tool and got the seat looking like brand new, I was really surprised how well it worked out. Got the race seated properly and I will wait for tomorrow to button everything up. I did find that the forward and aft universal joints were not phased properly, seems to have been out about 45 degrees, although it may have moved some during disassembly. Its a real bear trying to get the FD in place alone, figure before I really start cussing too much, I'll relax and do a better job later. I'll let you guys know how everything works out, thanks a lot so far for your input and support, I really appreciate it. -G

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Evening GO1150RT


Look that shaft over real closely. When you see one out of phase there is always a chance the torsional rubber has slipped (especially if it hasn’t been apart before)


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I got everything buttoned up and after riding the bike for the past 2 days I have no play what so ever in the rear wheel. Job finally done. Now I will be looking to dump some ohlin shocks on her and see how happy that makes me. Thanks for you help. -G

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