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Converting RTPs

Rex R

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Good afternoon guys,


Here's a question I haven't seen posted on the board.


Has anyone tried to (or better yet, succeeded at) converting an RTP to a two-seater while RETAINING the LEDs/strobes and siren? The electronics (that control those components) which are mounted under the radio box would need to be relocated, probably to one of the side cases.



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Converting to a 2 seater is relatively easy. You didn't list your bike in your profile. If you are speaking of an R11xxRTP, then read this thread and follow the documented steps. http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=14992


Maintaining strobes and siren is a whole different thing since we can't have them on our motors. Typically the dealer has taken care of ripping out the strobes and radio bits.

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Thanks Bev.


I had already seen that page (in fact, I downloaded all of the pics to my hard drive months ago. Wish I could thank the guy who photographed and posted those instructions.) And yes, my bike is a 11xxRTP.


Like you say, putting the second seat back on is not the trick; relocating the Code 3 components is.


I imagine that I'll need to fabricate a mounting block or plate and secure that inside a sabbledag. Putting all the weight on one side of the bike could be a problem. I'll need to extend the wiring harness, probably utilizing several sets of trailer wiring harnesses and trailer connectors with spring-loaded, weather-tight covers to enable me to remove the sabbledag for maintenance etc.


I've learned that the terminals and connectors BMW uses for these components are Tyco Commercial Mate N Lok and I have a supplier for them and the appropriate crimper. I also know a few suppliers for quality GXL/TXL/SXL wire. But...


I'm still hoping to find someone who has performed this modification, so I don't have to reinvent the wheel.


Anybody else? Bueller? Bueller?

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Maintaining strobes and siren is a whole different thing since we can't have them on our motors.


YMMV. In Arizona, motors being used for funeral escort may be full-dress, and there are a number of guys doing Patriot Guard Riders missions with the (free) permit for lights and siren.


Also, most states allow amber warning lights.

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Like you say, putting the second seat back on is not the trick; relocating the Code 3 components is.


The Code 3 siren is designed to mount in the integral top box. It is a large and funky shape to match the mounting points. If you want to put one into a saddlebox, I advise that you get a non-BMW siren amplifier, which will be smaller and fit more easily in a saddlebox or even in the front fairing (where it won't be splashed). The best is the Unitrol Omega, but there are some others out there. You should be able to find a good siren amp for less than 50 bux.


If you want to sell the Code 3 siren, let me know.



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Hello Rex,

I relocated my Whelen siren amp under the rear (tail light) fairing between the seat release latch and the tail light when I converted my RTP to a two seater. It's a tight fit. No harness extension or splicing was required. I sealed some parts of the amp to minimize the risk of water getting into the amp. The amp is wrapped in thin foam rubber and is not hard mounted. Kind of wedged in and it has little wiggle room. The siren speaker was relocated to the RTP aux battery box. I drilled a bunch of holes in the box to minimize the DB loss. Still loud as hell, although not as loud as when mounted on the crash bar.

I didn't reinstall the strobe amp. If I would have, I would have mounted it into my Givi rear trunk/box. Would probably be best to install a quality wiring disconnect plug on the rear case for it. Since the strobes are verbotten in most states for us civilians (regardless of strobe color), I decided I didn't want to assume that additional risk.

Send us pics if you do a trunk or side case installation of the strobe amp.

Good Luck!

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BTW, Rex, where are you located?


Why do you want the lights and siren on your motor, especially if you're putting on the second seat?


Be advised that having this equipment in operating condition is a crime in most states. You may not "display" red or blue lights, even if they are disconnected.


HOWEVER, if you have CLEAR lenses on LEDs that only show color when active, that's not "displaying" unless they are on.


Make sure what the laws are in your home state, and in any state you will routinely ride through. Cops have NO SENSE OF HUMOR when it comes to impersonation, and having all of this stuff on a vehicle can be seen as "intent to impersonate," which is a crime.


If you do have a legitimate use for cop lights and siren, but your motor is not an authorized emergency vehicle, I STRONGLY urge you to put in a keyswitch that will disable them except when you are supposed to be using them. Mount it under the seat. That way, if you are questioned about it, you can show that you would have to stop and "use a tool to modify" your motor so that the stuff would work.



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Thanks guys. I never considered replacing the code 3 3950 amp, but that's a good idea. I have to see if I can find one with similar specs and wiring to retain as much of the functionality as possible (ie airhorn tone, scroll switch, interclear) without needing to butcher the existing wiring harness. Thanks for the tips on legal issues, as well, Solo; but I think I have that covered.


If anyone else has any experience with this stuff, please keep the dialog going. I appreciate all the help I can get.


Anyone? Bueller? Bueller?

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You won't find a direct plug-in replacement. You can make an adapter for whatever you get by getting the mating plug for the RTP harness and the mating plug for the siren, and wire the leads that you need.


Most sirens will give you yelp by hitting the horn switch during wail. To do a scroll, you may need to make a circuit to switch between pins on the siren. I haven't kept up with all of the newer sirens' features.


Glad you have the legal stuff covered. I just didn't want to see you get clobbered.


As I said before, let me know if you want to sell your Code 3 siren.

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