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Cracked the fuel pump


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Well there I am checking the "05 R1200ST's Quick Disconnects coming out of the fuel pump and sure looks to me like the male is showing signs of stress on the plastic, so I ordered the Boneyard kit and proceeded to change it out , I figured I would do the easy ones check for leaks then pull the tank and do them, hooked it up sealed the threads used high pressure clamps on the male and sealer on the female. Fired the bike up ran like a purring kitten shut it off and with the system now pressurized noticed a small weeping of fuel, so i tightened it a 1/4 turn and reduced it a little more, another quarter of a turn and almost gone,one more 1/4 and SNAP the plastic cracked horizontally from the female thread across the top of the fuel pump for about a 1". AHHHHHHHH, so called local dealer great group of guys at Santa Fe BMW and they said None in country WHAT?? AHHHHHHHH they said 2-3 weeks. It is 70 degrees and sunny in NM right now people!!! They recommended contacting another dealer ,Might have one, Called San Jose they said Yep shipping to ya $474 later, got here today APRIL 1 and it was for a 800ST AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH. So moral of story don't really know, been tightening threads for 35 years on all kinds of dissimilar materials and this one bit me. So waiting for Germany to respond, NO the RT does not fit according to the BMW tech support the Dealer contacted, the electrical frequency is slightly different and CAN-BUS will go brain dead. Part numbers for individual parts are exactly the same BUT total unit is one digit different. So waiting to ride in NM


" Ride smooth, Ride Far, Trust GOD"

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There have been several reports of this happening to others when changing to new parts as well as a few reports of cracks in the OEM fitting. Some have attempted repairs with various epoxy type materials, sometimes with a reinforcing sleeve but it is likely safer to replace as you've chosen.

Anyway, thanks for the note- it should serve as another warning to those doing this change to go easy and use a good sealer- and don't get tempted to fix weeping by tightening. Gas is a pretty good lube on plastic so felt torque can be misleading and not tell you how much stress the fitting is seeing...


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That sucks but that will always be that problem with a pipe fitting. Steel in plastic, overtight, snap. I don't think you'll be able to fix this one if it has a 1" running crack. Is the housing the same for the one you were sent? If so maybe you can swap the pump and controller from your original but it would be a waste of money, but you could ride. Looked again and you note the part numbers for the individual components are the same. Sorry, don't know what the difference would be.

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Morning NMSharpy



I sure do hate to hear this. It has happened to others just like to you. Just a ¼ turn more then SNAP.


Maybe it’s time we move a post like this to become a sticky or at least a warning in the sticky section.


The secret to success here isn’t making it tighter (as you have found out) tapered threads in plastic are a sure fire way to disaster. The secret is REMOVING the fitting then applying more (or a different type) of thread sealer then re-installing.


On plastic fuel rail and plastic fuel system parts a lot of the auto companies have gone to straight threads (no taper) with a large headed fitting counter bored for an “O” ring. That way no taper to split the plastic and the “O” rings seal with little torque involved.


Maybe your post here will save someone else from similar fate.


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