marcopolo Posted March 31, 2011 Share Posted March 31, 2011 I took my '06 R12RT into my local independent BMW tech to have him split the bike and lube the transmission input splines as a bit of preventive medicine. Given the level of effort (read labour) just to get at them, I also asked him to change the clutch disc and whatever seals made sense to do. My bike has 102,000 kms after five riding seasons. While he did change the clutch disc, as I had asked him to do, he found little wear on the original. He told me what he measured the thickness at, but that too I can't recall off the top of my head. He did not change the spring, as it was fine. He also changed three seals (two were on the transmission, maybe the third was too, but I can't recall now). Given my very limited mechanical ability, it's nice to watch someone with the skill, tools and equipment do a job like this. I won't be picking the bike up for a couple of days, but thought these photos might be of interest. Oh yes, the transmission input splines (the focus of this) were in good shape. He cleaned them up and lubed them, along with the output splines on the back end of the transmission. Link to comment
aggieengineer Posted March 31, 2011 Share Posted March 31, 2011 Neat photos. The lubricant on the transmission shaft looks different, like perhaps a copper anti-seize compound. Curious. Link to comment
marcopolo Posted March 31, 2011 Author Share Posted March 31, 2011 Neat photos. The lubricant on the transmission shaft looks different, like perhaps a copper anti-seize compound. Curious. Yes, it certainly is different than the lube he put on the input shaft splines and the end of the drive shaft (not shown in pics). When I fist saw it from a distance I said to myself, "oh sh$t, what's that, rust?". He assured me it wasn't rust and that he had applied this compound. I'll ask him what it was when I get the bike on Monday. Link to comment
hopz Posted March 31, 2011 Share Posted March 31, 2011 Looks like a good way to get to the air filter.. Link to comment
Sellis Posted April 1, 2011 Share Posted April 1, 2011 Hey Mark, Thanks for the pictures, I've never seen one that far apart! Steve Link to comment
marcopolo Posted April 1, 2011 Author Share Posted April 1, 2011 Hey Mark, Thanks for the pictures, I've never seen one that far apart! Steve Hi Steve. It can make you a bit squeamish. I hope he didn't have any parts left over. Link to comment
w2ge Posted April 1, 2011 Share Posted April 1, 2011 Geez... Hate to see your bill! Damn, he had your bike TOTALLY torn apart... I would think that the shaft spline lube would be a MOLY 60 type paste.. I've used Honda Moly 60 and it is dark silver/grey. Link to comment
marcopolo Posted April 4, 2011 Author Share Posted April 4, 2011 Neat photos. The lubricant on the transmission shaft looks different, like perhaps a copper anti-seize compound. Curious. Yes, it certainly is different than the lube he put on the input shaft splines and the end of the drive shaft (not shown in pics). When I fist saw it from a distance I said to myself, "oh sh$t, what's that, rust?". He assured me it wasn't rust and that he had applied this compound. I'll ask him what it was when I get the bike on Monday. I popped in and paid my bill today and asked what it was he put on the output shaft. It is indeed some sort of anti-seize compound. Link to comment
marcopolo Posted April 4, 2011 Author Share Posted April 4, 2011 Neat photos. The lubricant on the transmission shaft looks different, like perhaps a copper anti-seize compound. Curious. Yes, it certainly is different than the lube he put on the input shaft splines and the end of the drive shaft (not shown in pics). When I fist saw it from a distance I said to myself, "oh sh$t, what's that, rust?". He assured me it wasn't rust and that he had applied this compound. I'll ask him what it was when I get the bike on Monday. I popped in and paid my bill today and asked what it was he put on the output shaft. It is indeed some sort of anti-seize compound. Link to comment
marcopolo Posted April 4, 2011 Author Share Posted April 4, 2011 Geez... Hate to see your bill! Damn, he had your bike TOTALLY torn apart... I would think that the shaft spline lube would be a MOLY 60 type paste.. I've used Honda Moly 60 and it is dark silver/grey. Paid my bill today. There were 6 and 2/3 labour hours and the parts were $350 CDN ($250 of that was for the clutch plate, plus three transmission seals, various screws for the clutch housing and a couple of O-rings for the fuel line quick disconnects). I asked what he used on the splines and he said it was a Castrol product. Link to comment
Joe_Rocket Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 Just looking at those pictures makes me a bit ill. I'd consider myself more than a shade-tree mechanic having rebuilt 5 engines and fully restored 3 antique cars... but honestly, seeing the RT broken down that far gives me the willies. Thanks for posting the pictures. Note to self: if the clutch on my R1200RT ever needs to be replaced, take it to the dealership and don't go see it until it is completely finished. I'd place these pictures right up there with a video I watched of a vasectomy reversal Link to comment
kmkahuna Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 Hey Mark, Thanks for the pictures, I've never seen one that far apart! Steve Hi Steve. It can make you a bit squeamish. I hope he didn't have any parts left over. Mark: Another "thank you" post for getting these pictures up: they are definitely worth 1000 words. But squeamish? My friend, these things make me feel like I'm in the morgue identifying body parts! But, putting my anthropomorphic horror aside, it's just quite a pleasure to be able to see all the subsystems on this bike that make it so intimidating to work on. Thanks again! Link to comment
marcopolo Posted April 5, 2011 Author Share Posted April 5, 2011 Hey Mark, Thanks for the pictures, I've never seen one that far apart! Steve Hi Steve. It can make you a bit squeamish. I hope he didn't have any parts left over. Mark: Another "thank you" post for getting these pictures up: they are definitely worth 1000 words. But squeamish? My friend, these things make me feel like I'm in the morgue identifying body parts! But, putting my anthropomorphic horror aside, it's just quite a pleasure to be able to see all the subsystems on this bike that make it so intimidating to work on. Thanks again! As the saying goes, don't try this at home, kids. My mechanical ability is limited to checking the tire pressure and changing the oil & filter. I must say it's a real pleasure to deal with an independent tech who is quite happy to have me watch him work (not that I hung around very long for this job). That's one of the downsides of a dealership, seeing your bike disappear into some black hole. Link to comment
Ken H. Posted April 5, 2011 Share Posted April 5, 2011 Just looking at those pictures makes me a bit ill. I'd consider myself more than a shade-tree mechanic having rebuilt 5 engines and fully restored 3 antique cars... but honestly, seeing the RT broken down that far gives me the willies. Thanks for posting the pictures. Note to self: if the clutch on my R1200RT ever needs to be replaced, take it to the dealership and don't go see it until it is completely finished. Well obviously you have to have some mechanical skills a couple of notches about beginner, but actually splitting a boxer in half (even the 1200 series) is well within reach of say anyone who has done engine work. A lot of us here have had them in half ourselves. And lived to ride it another day. It looks far worse to do than it actually is. Link to comment
Tourbike Posted April 25, 2011 Share Posted April 25, 2011 These are extraordinary pictures. But, the job only took 6+ hours. So, not a big deal for an experienced mechanic. My question is how often does this have to be done? In the pictures, it looked like grease was present and the clutch wasn't worn. So, when? Too bad BMW didn't put in a zerk fitting. Link to comment
AllenW Posted April 26, 2011 Share Posted April 26, 2011 A little tip when getting into a motor for the first time is to label the parts with masking tape, number them maybe and write down what they are and when they came apart. Also have plenty of very clean room to lay parts out and take as many pictures as you can, with todays digital camera's that could be several dozen to hundreds.. Stay calm and try to do it all in one sitting. Having the shop manual is a definite plus too. Al Just looking at those pictures makes me a bit ill. I'd consider myself more than a shade-tree mechanic having rebuilt 5 engines and fully restored 3 antique cars... but honestly, seeing the RT broken down that far gives me the willies. Thanks for posting the pictures. Note to self: if the clutch on my R1200RT ever needs to be replaced, take it to the dealership and don't go see it until it is completely finished. Well obviously you have to have some mechanical skills a couple of notches about beginner, but actually splitting a boxer in half (even the 1200 series) is well within reach of say anyone who has done engine work. A lot of us here have had them in half ourselves. And lived to ride it another day. It looks far worse to do than it actually is. Link to comment
Mike Posted April 26, 2011 Share Posted April 26, 2011 I'm really glad that there are people out there--many of our members included--who have the ability to do this sort of work. My mechanical ability is pretty much limited to replacing filters, plugs and bulbs. Beyond that, I start shaking. This photo made my stomach hurt: Link to comment
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