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HID conversion (will plastic melt??)


kaygem

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I would like to convert my lighting to HID. If I install one of the conversion kits, do I need to be concerned about the plastic exterior lens?

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I installed HID's on my '96 R1100RT and had no issues with the plastic lens. As an aside, it made an enormous difference when riding at night. The '96 had terrible lighting, and the HID's were literally night and day.

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leeinmemphis

I'm running a vvme 55w HID for my low beam and love it! I also have a DDM kit on my GS 55w as well. Personally I had a bad experience with VVME and would not likely deal with them again. I had a bad ballast from the factory and got the run around for getting a replacement. fwiw.

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Am running three HIDs on my 2009...

 

2 6000K 55W HID for the Low Beams, and 1 4500k 55W for the High.

 

I got mine from XenonRider. Little more expensive but great quality, and great customer service. I did the thin ballasts and a great fit. Have had them for over 2 years now with no issues.

 

And yes, NIGHT AND DAY ... They shine off the side of the road a good ways, so if something is coming you'll know well in advance (like a deer). Flip side is you get to see HUNDREDS of deer that you never knew were there before.

 

I ordered the lows first with reg ballast, then went and ordered another pair with slim ballasts, and the 4500k bulbs.. They called me back and told me if I ordered another way I'd save about $50 and have an extra bulb to use as a spare.

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Kaygem if you are looking at a kit for an 1100RT then you will need to order a H4-3 HID bulb set that will give you both high and low beam on one unit. The 1150s have a funky light set up and the GS use 2 bulbs.

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No problems with the plastic. Easy installation but tight. I put the ballast in the speaker cavity. I'm installed a 4300k bi-xenon bulb. It handles both low and high beam. Good mod.

HIDS%2BPIAA1400.jpg

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Good information so far. So I need to order separate units for the high and low beams then?

 

Your model year is a single bulb..

 

On HIDs (I BELIEVE) it's a metal sleeve that moves up and down the bulb changing the light dissipation giving you low/ High Beam..

 

Not familiar with it, but haven't heard anyone say it doesn't work.

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Good information so far. So I need to order separate units for the high and low beams then?

 

May I advise you AGAINST going HID for Main beam.

The problem with HID, is that it takes about 5 seconds for the filament to get up to temperature, and so when you need instant light, it is not there. It is fine for dipped beam, as that is switched on all the time.

 

Also, be aware that HID is a great way for getting someone to drive into you. The lamps are so bright, that oncoming vehicles are attracted to you like a moth to a lightbulb. You NEED to make sure your lamps are set slightly low. These bikes, and indeed anything not designed for HID, do not have automatic lamp levelers, so evey time you go over a bump, or open the throttle a touch, the front end rises and you blind other road users.

I am not trying to be a kill joy (as I have HID's fitted), but please be prudent with the use of them.

I have fitted a switch and have my dip switched off most of the time until the road gets nadgery, and then I switch it on. For the rest of the time I ride using the auxilliary lights.

 

Andy

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Sorry to be contrary Andy, but I must say balderdash to your comment. That just has not been my experience.

 

With the Bi-xenon there is no warm up after the initial start of your engine and full brightness is achieved by the time I get my helmet secured on my noggin, gloves on and the bike off its stand.

 

I agree that taking care to aim the low beam correctly and adjust it for load variances is a must....but that takes seconds to adjust with a twist of the little knob to the right side if the lens mount while sitting on the bike.

 

My experience ha been that fewer cars turn left in from of me in city traffic because they hadn’t noticed my presence, and never once have I experienced the "moth to flame" effect on a two lane road.

 

I say go for it. It is better to see and be seen than suffer with the weak light that came of the 1100 series bikes

 

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Did an HID conversion on the low beam of my 2002 1150RT. Much brighter. No problem with heat. In fact, I've heard the HID's don't throw off as much heat as the halogens. I had a GS with HID's in both high and low beams. I converted the high beam back to halogen so it would be full brightness instantly when needed.

 

I have noticed cars seem to see me more. During the day I ride my 1150RT with the HID low beam and halogen high beam both on. The difference in light color gets people's attention, sort of like a "light triange". It's different and people in cars notice me.

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..... During the day I ride my 1150RT with the HID low beam and halogen high beam both on. ..... It's different and people in cars notice me.

 

Rant!!!!Too right they notice. If I were a Policeman, I think I'd have a polite word in your ear about dangerous driving. There is no need to dazzle anyone at any time and it's plain antisocial

Rant over, now I'm nice again. Sorry Al

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After having just read this thread http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=685922#Post685922, and seeing that some minor surgery might be needed (for wiring), I almost wonder if HID is a better application for auxiliary lighting?

 

I like the idea of more light (both for me and increased visibility), but I also wonder if keeping a standard bulb for headlight means easier to replace should it burn out on the road?

 

What do you think?

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Morning Eric

 

I think that because all these HID conversions are illegal light conversions that don’t meet DOT criteria that once the money strapped police find they can write money making tickets on these bright lights we will see a change in attitude about these installs.

 

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... but I also wonder if keeping a standard bulb for headlight means easier to replace should it burn out on the road?

HID's don't work in the same way as 'normal' bulbs, and so don't burn out as often.

However, having the HID's as extra lights is a good option, leaving the standard lights in place so as not to annoy other road users. Use the light when you really need it.

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... but I also wonder if keeping a standard bulb for headlight means easier to replace should it burn out on the road?

HID's don't work in the same way as 'normal' bulbs, and so don't burn out as often.

However, having the HID's as extra lights is a good option, leaving the standard lights in place so as not to annoy other road users. Use the light when you really need it.

Thanks, I was wondering about that and I do like the "use the lights when you need them" concept.
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Danny caddyshack Noonan

On the 1100RT, I have the HID conversion. When I go on overnight trips, I carry a spare H4-3 bulb that will go into the original harness should I lose the HID. Puts me on the road although almost in braille mode with a smaller repair kit than a ballast and burner.

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On the 1100RT, I have the HID conversion. When I go on overnight trips, I carry a spare H4-3 bulb that will go into the original harness should I lose the HID. Puts me on the road although almost in braille mode with a smaller repair kit than a ballast and burner.
So the original harness is still there to use? I did not think of that. Sounds like a good idea (if it can be kept clean).
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Danny caddyshack Noonan

So the original harness is still there to use? I did not think of that. Sounds like a good idea (if it can be kept clean).

Yup The HID has a three prong that goes right into the old harness. That's how it knows what low and high beam are.

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Rant!!!!Too right they notice. If I were a Policeman, I think I'd have a polite word in your ear about dangerous driving. There is no need to dazzle anyone at any time and it's plain antisocial

Rant over, now I'm nice again. Sorry Al

 

When I took the MSF basic and advanced courses, it was recommended to ride with your bright lights on during the day for increased conspicuity. I've also seen it in a number of safety books and articles. So I do. Also, since the HID is in my low beam, it's always on anyway and the high beam only raises the beam and doesn't make it much brighter. I've never been flashed for having them on and I've certainly encountered a number of LEO's without concern. I've been hit head on in the past because the other guy "didn't see me". I'll ride with my brights on, and dim them if flashed. Rant all you want, Andy.

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So the original harness is still there to use? I did not think of that. Sounds like a good idea (if it can be kept clean).

Yup The HID has a three prong that goes right into the old harness. That's how it knows what low and high beam are.

So do the extra electronics also plug into the original harness? This is sounding more straightforward than I expected.
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Danny caddyshack Noonan
So do the extra electronics also plug into the original harness? This is sounding more straightforward than I expected.

Exactly. The HID harness plugs into the three prong lamp plug. That runs to a relay that needs another Batt+ source I think. Then, with the VVME car kit, there are two harnesses coming off the relay. One for each burner (headlamp). I plastic bagged one of those to keep it dry and stuffed it into the speaker area. The other harness runs out to the headlamp with three leads. The burner has three lines that plug into the three wires coming from the relay.

 

On the 1100RT, the rubber gaiter needs to be opened up diameter wise. I opened it up a tiny bit too much (this is probably the hardest part). I put teflon tape on the burner and filled the big hole in the gaiter with silicone seal. I ordered an extra, unmolested, gaiter/seal that gets packed with the original H4-3 bulb for trips.

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When I took the MSF basic and advanced courses, it was recommended to ride with your bright lights on during the day for increased conspicuity. ..... Rant all you want, Andy.

 

Your MSF course has either given you information that is wrong....or you have interpreted it wrong.

To ride with your bright lights on - not the small pilot light, is indeed fair policy, and indeed can be interpreted as 'a bright light', however riding with main beam is NOT good practice. it has a detremental effect in as much as:

a/. It can blind other road users.

b/. It can distract other road users.

c/. It can lull the rider into a false sense of security.

but most importantly

d/. Because the light dominates what the onlooker can see, they no longer get the outline of your machine, so, that screws up their depth of field perception and the brain has difficulty in assessing the 'rate of change of size' of your vehicle. In other words the brain has more difficulty in working out approach speed.

Andy

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On the 1100RT, I have the HID conversion. When I go on overnight trips, I carry a spare H4-3 bulb that will go into the original harness should I lose the HID. Puts me on the road although almost in braille mode with a smaller repair kit than a ballast and burner.

Hi 73c5, that's a good idea, and also good for riding in europe where we are meant to carry spare bulbs.

Kept in a small case with the other ones makes sense.

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When I took the MSF basic and advanced courses, it was recommended to ride with your bright lights on during the day for increased conspicuity. ..... Rant all you want, Andy.

 

Your MSF course has either given you information that is wrong....or you have interpreted it wrong.

To ride with your bright lights on - not the small pilot light, is indeed fair policy, and indeed can be interpreted as 'a bright light', however riding with main beam is NOT good practice. it has a detremental effect in as much as:

a/. It can blind other road users.

b/. It can distract other road users.

c/. It can lull the rider into a false sense of security.

but most importantly

d/. Because the light dominates what the onlooker can see, they no longer get the outline of your machine, so, that screws up their depth of field perception and the brain has difficulty in assessing the 'rate of change of size' of your vehicle. In other words the brain has more difficulty in working out approach speed.

Andy

Does "main" mean the high or the low beam? In looking over this thread it seems "main" has been used as "high", when in fact I would think main is low and then you have the high (brights) beam. Of course my interpretation of the terms could be wrong, or it might be a regional thing.
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When I took the MSF basic and advanced courses, it was recommended to ride with your bright lights on during the day for increased conspicuity. ..... Rant all you want, Andy.

 

Your MSF course has either given you information that is wrong....or you have interpreted it wrong.

To ride with your bright lights on - not the small pilot light, is indeed fair policy, and indeed can be interpreted as 'a bright light', however riding with main beam is NOT good practice. it has a detremental effect in as much as:

a/. It can blind other road users.

b/. It can distract other road users.

c/. It can lull the rider into a false sense of security.

but most importantly

d/. Because the light dominates what the onlooker can see, they no longer get the outline of your machine, so, that screws up their depth of field perception and the brain has difficulty in assessing the 'rate of change of size' of your vehicle. In other words the brain has more difficulty in working out approach speed.

Andy

Does "main" mean the high or the low beam? In looking over this thread it seems "main" has been used as "high", when in fact I would think main is low and then you have the high (brights) beam. Of course my interpretation of the terms could be wrong, or it might be a regional thing.

 

In the UK (where AndyS is from) 'Main' means 'high' and 'Dipped' means 'Low'. In the UK, riding on high beam will get you a ticket for 'Causing unnecessary dazzle', as well as hiding your closing speed from other drivers.

 

Andy

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....In the UK, riding on high beam will get you a ticket for 'Causing unnecessary dazzle'....

 

Is this during all times of day/lighting conditions?

 

Edit: I too am under the understanding (perhaps falsely) that running the brights is best during daytime conditions.

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....In the UK, riding on high beam will get you a ticket for 'Causing unnecessary dazzle'....

 

Is this during all times of day/lighting conditions?

 

Edit: I too am under the understanding (perhaps falsely) that running the brights is best during daytime conditions.

 

Yes - and at night as well of course. The safety issue with bright lights is that they lead to an under-estimate of your closing speed, so cars in side roads are much more likely to pull out as they think they have plenty of time to do so.

 

Andy

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I Googled "Riding motorcycle with bright lights on" and came up with 1,800,000 hits. Many of these, including MotorcycleSafe.com, highly recommend riding with the bright light, high beam, (main beam in UK ) on for safety. Since I don't live in the UK, but do live in the US where many safety experts seem to recommend this, I'll keep doing it. However, I don't at night nor when I perceive it's bothering oncoming traffic. Guess we'll just have to disagree on this.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi Ross

 

I fitted an H4 4300K Bi-xenon kit off ebay which works very well and doesn't have the blue cast to the light.

 

I have found it to work very well and as the relay activated shutter moves you still have both high & low beam available.

 

It takes a few seconds to warm up at the start of a ride but as I always ride with the low beam on its never been a problem.

 

Good Luck

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Found other posts and pulled the trigger,

 

I've ordered from VVME.com

 

Digital Slim H4-3 (9003) Bi-Xenon HID Kit 5000K

about $95 with shipping

 

- Ross

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Installed my VVME.com H4HID last night, what a difference. Hurts your eyes to look at. Should wake up the cages.

 

Bike 2000R1100RT

 

Part Number: Digital Slim H4-3(9003) Bi-Xenon HID Kit

 

about $90 with shiping, Arrived within one week.

 

The VVME.com kit was set up for a Car, so I got an extra 5000K Hid lamp and control unit that I'll keep as a backup. Mounted the Control units to the front out-side of the glove box. Zip tied the other small box and loose wires under the oil cooler. I cut off the longer wires for the second light (not needed). High beam works as they described.

 

Removed side panels, started to take apart the front but didn't need to. Ran direct power lines back to the battery with a fuse in-line.

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Installed my VVME.com H4HID last night, what a difference. Hurts your eyes to look at. Should wake up the cages.

 

And there you have the truth....until they swerve to avoid something because they haven't sen it - and ride into you.

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I have a 35W and it is incredibly powerful.

The colour temperature is really of more importance.

It is often assumed that the higher the number the better, but this isn't true.

Ideally for the most natural 'daylight feel' you woant to be choosing around 4300k

 

The higher the number the more blue it appears and if you go real low say 3200 it will be yellow like an older incandescent lamp.

 

Andy

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My 5000K 35W hurts my eyes from the glare off white road signs. Im saving the power for my heated seat!

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