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rear drive removal


essman

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Evening essman

 

What you want to do there? You mention rear drive AND drive shaft. The rear final drive comes off with just a couple of bolts after removing speed sensor and brake caliper and wheel. Pull the rubber gator loose then reach in and pop drive shaft off the stub shaft first. You will probably have to loosen the muffler clamp, then remove the rear muffler bolt, then swing the muffler out to get the wheel/tire off.

 

Now on the removing the drive shaft? That takes removing the right side plate & rear swing arm before the shaft can come off.

 

In any case be sure to us a strap or rope to SECURLY fasten the center stand to the front wheel or front of bike before doing any work as those center stands collapse real easily when prying around on the bike.

 

 

 

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It's a little more involved than that. I didn't explain everything. I had the motor out and I am realizing that in order to get the rear subframe reattached to the front frame/motor, I can not join the two while the driveshaft is in there. It came apart OK, but going together is a different story. Now, I need to put the subframe on and then slide the driveshaft/rear drive in. I had a shop manual CD, but it doesn't work in my MacBook. Fortunately, I have another bike just like it to use as a model of where things go. Thanks--I think I can do it with this info. I should be able to pull the rubber boot back and line up the front spline and then put on the rear drive.

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Morning

 

OK that makes sense.

 

Check your Pm’s on this site as I sent you a manual procedure.

 

If that won’t work on your Mac just send me your E-Mail address, send me your E-Mail address by PM and I will then send the picture to you with the procedure in any format you want.

 

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Morning

 

OK that makes sense.

 

Check your Pm’s on this site as I sent you a manual procedure.

 

If that won’t work on your Mac just send me your E-Mail address, send me your E-Mail address by PM and I will then send the picture to you with the procedure in any format you want.

 

Just stopped by to say you're a good man dirtrider. :thumbsup:

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Thanks for the help. It's good to know that I can always rely on this site to get me through a problem. These bikes come apart a lot quicker than they go back together, but it is done.

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Complete with words and pictures...step by step.

 

Disregard that it says GS...pretend it says RT.

 

http://r1200gs.info/howto/reardrive.html

 

Afternoon LPOL

 

Unfortunately that is just for the final drive fluid changed it doesn’t cover drive shaft removal or reattachment.

 

You need to read all the posts as his second one fully describes his need----“I had the motor out and I am realizing that in order to get the rear subframe reattached to the front frame/motor, I can not join the two while the driveshaft is in there”

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Dirtrider,

 

Mind your own business. My post was meant for Essman.

 

If you have some derogatory comments about my post then perhaps a PM would suffice.

 

LPOL

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LPOL

 

Sorry, didn’t mean to step on your tail just trying to keep the info accurate for future readers when they search the archives.

 

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Dirtrider,

 

Mind your own business. My post was meant for Essman.

 

If you have some derogatory comments about my post then perhaps a PM would suffice.

 

LPOL

 

The tone of that post is not in keeping with the atmosphere we like here at BMWST. It is not for nothing some call us Mr Roger's Neighbourhood. Possibly meant as derogatory, we embrace it.

 

Please re-read the user agreement, especially the opening paragraphs.

 

Andy

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Dirtrider,

 

Mind your own business. My post was meant for Essman.

 

If you have some derogatory comments about my post then perhaps a PM would suffice.

 

LPOL

 

Wow; get up on the wrong side of the bed today buddy? You're the one who's out of line with your over-the-top commentary. Seems like you're new around here, given your post count. I don't think you've quite grasped the tone around here. He simply pointed out that your link was for a FD fluid change, which was not what the original poster was asking about.

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aggieengineer

Dirtrider,

 

I'm sure you're aware that the rest of us appreciate your efforts at providing technical information on this bike - the reason this forum exists. Carry on, please.

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Dirtrider,

 

I'm sure you're aware that the rest of us appreciate your efforts at providing technical information on this bike - the reason this forum exists. Carry on, please.

+1

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Wow, has there ever been such an ugly turn taken on this site before?

 

Never in my experience.

 

I guess I'm not helping, but Jeeez.......

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Does anyone have a link to instructions for rear drive removal (rear drive and drive shaft) on a R1200RT?

 

Hi essman,

 

The best thing you can do for yourself if you going to wrench on your RT is to get the manual. There's more to it than just the instructions on how to dismantle and assemble. You MUST have the correct torque values. It is very easy to wreck your bike by over tightening. Aluminum is so easy to strip out. Anyway, best of luck on your project!

 

 

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Afternoon Scott

 

From what he wrote in his second post above it looks like he does have a manual but it won’t work on his MacBook. Unfortunately the official BMW Rep Rom manuals only come in CD/DVD format not hard copy.

 

You would think that somehow there must be a workaround to get a Rep Rom to work on a MacBook.

 

Anybody with a MacBook figured it out give Essman a PM.

 

 

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Hi D.R

 

I missed his second post. That stinks that OSx will not deal with repROM. His best option is to either find a friend with a Windows based PC or get on Google and search for a workaround. I did find one suggestion on the advrider forum:

 

1) Get VirtualBox (free). Google it.

2) Install windows in a virtual machine provided by virtual box.

3) Install the RepROM in the windows virtual machine

 

Works great. This does assume that you own a copy of windows to install.

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+1 on ScottT's VirtualBox recommendation. It takes some extra work up front to set up, but running a simple VM to be able to use Windows software is a good way to go, and can help with similar issues in the future.

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