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R1200RT Ohlins Adjustment Question


Boxtop

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Got my new Ohlins installed, Part No. BM503 on the front, BM504 on the rear. It took about 4 hours total and about 5 minutes of helper time to assist with the front shock.

 

Adjusted free sag and ride height per the Ohlins manual. For one rider, the rear shock was good out of the box with no additional preload cranked into the hydraulic adjuster. The front shock took a couple of turns of additional preload on the adjustment/lock nuts.

 

Here's my question:

 

As the shocks sit on the bike, the rebound damping adjustment nut is on the bottom end of the shock. Per the Ohlins manual, for the initial rebound damping setting, turn the adjuster "clockwise" to the fully closed position, then back it off 16 clicks. The "clockwise" direction is a bit ambiguous, because clockwise changes depending on one's position relative to the shock.

 

As you look down on the shock from above the bike, to get to the fully closed position, one would actually turn the adjustment nut counterclockwise, correct?

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CoarsegoldKid

You can only reach the adjuster from below on the front and side on the rear. Turn it as stated in the manual. 16 is the middle position. More clockwise will increase damping = slow down the rate of motion of the piston.

Your experience with the preloads was the same as mine. On the rear with my luggage and wife onboard I must max out preload. Solo I set it about mid point so I don't drag metal parts and can still touch the ground with my toes.

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CoarsegoldKid, if you're having to use max preload, meaning your remote preload adjuster is turned all it will go, I would think you have too light of a spring. You want the sag to be the same solo or loaded two up and use the preload adjuster to get to that number.

If I understand you, when loaded you don't have any adjustment left.

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I also have new Ohlins on my bike, Front BM503 ( spring 01096-14/60N) base preload 8mm, rear BM504 (spring 01092-69/170N) base preload 16mm. I have the rear hydraulic preload adjuster all the way out and damping at 16 clicks and when riding solo it is far to stiff for me, sure hope it softens up or I will need a softer spring. With my wife on the back it is good with the preload turned in one turn.

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Got my new Ohlins installed, Part No. BM503 on the front, BM504 on the rear. It took about 4 hours total and about 5 minutes of helper time to assist with the front shock.

 

Adjusted free sag and ride height per the Ohlins manual. For one rider, the rear shock was good out of the box with no additional preload cranked into the hydraulic adjuster. The front shock took a couple of turns of additional preload on the adjustment/lock nuts.

 

Here's my question:

 

As the shocks sit on the bike, the rebound damping adjustment nut is on the bottom end of the shock. Per the Ohlins manual, for the initial rebound damping setting, turn the adjuster "clockwise" to the fully closed position, then back it off 16 clicks. The "clockwise" direction is a bit ambiguous, because clockwise changes depending on one's position relative to the shock.

 

As you look down on the shock from above the bike, to get to the fully closed position, one would actually turn the adjustment nut counterclockwise, correct?

 

Seen from below, you turn the knob clockwise to increase the damping. In any event, you can feel resistance building a little bit as you increase the damping and also you can feel the resistance lessen when you decrease.

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Since they give you a starting recommendation of 16 clicks, it should be in the ball park. For reference, place a mark on the knurled adjuster knob (I put a dab of white paint in the hollow between two of the flats); this will make it much easier to keep track of which way you turn the knob in the future. The most important part of the tuning process is keeping track of your settings.

 

I just had my front Ohlins rebuilt, and found it a little too firm. If you want to experiment, back it off another 6 turns, then go ride. Then turn in 2 clicks and ride some more. Eventually you will get to a point where the ride starts to get harsh. Back off one click; if it's still too harsh, back off another click. The longer a ride you can take, the better. It may take a few weeks of experimentation to get the suspension fully dialed in to your preferences.

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I just had my front Ohlins rebuilt, and found it a little too firm. If you want to experiment, back it off another 6 turns, then go ride. Then turn in 2 clicks and ride some more. Eventually you will get to a point where the ride starts to get harsh. Back off one click; if it's still too harsh, back off another click. The longer a ride you can take, the better. It may take a few weeks of experimentation to get the suspension fully dialed in to your preferences.

 

I'd take this advice.

I'm surprised how long it's taken me to figure out the rebound settings on my Wilbers shod RT.

I'm running what I thought would be far to soft on the single rebound adjuster I have, but the bike is not wallowing and it absorbs most of what our UK excuse for roads can throw at it.

hth

\v/

 

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CoarsegoldKid
I also have new Ohlins on my bike, Front BM503 ( spring 01096-14/60N) base preload 8mm, rear BM504 (spring 01092-69/170N) base preload 16mm. I have the rear hydraulic preload adjuster all the way out and damping at 16 clicks and when riding solo it is far to stiff for me, sure hope it softens up or I will need a softer spring. With my wife on the back it is good with the preload turned in one turn.

 

Me thinks the spring is too stiff. With your wife on preload should be in the vicinity of max. Remember hydraulic preload adjustment is added to provide ground clearance with extra load. Having said that did you go through the sag procedure? Keep in mind that you don't want the chassis wagging around when leaned over and no pavement banging riding solo or two up. The reach to the ground should be the same solo as well as when wife in on. When wife gets off the bike the chassis should rise and it should be a longer reach to the ground. If you didn't perform the sag procedure do so and set the rebound to 16 clicks which is mid-point. Faster riding and perhaps even more load may require more clicks. It will never be perfect for all circumstances and road conditions.

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I also have new Ohlins on my bike, Front BM503 ( spring 01096-14/60N) base preload 8mm, rear BM504 (spring 01092-69/170N) base preload 16mm. I have the rear hydraulic preload adjuster all the way out and damping at 16 clicks and when riding solo it is far to stiff for me, sure hope it softens up or I will need a softer spring. With my wife on the back it is good with the preload turned in one turn.

 

Me thinks the spring is too stiff. With your wife on preload should be in the vicinity of max. Remember hydraulic preload adjustment is added to provide ground clearance with extra load. Having said that did you go through the sag procedure? Keep in mind that you don't want the chassis wagging around when leaned over and no pavement banging riding solo or two up. The reach to the ground should be the same solo as well as when wife in on. When wife gets off the bike the chassis should rise and it should be a longer reach to the ground. If you didn't perform the sag procedure do so and set the rebound to 16 clicks which is mid-point. Faster riding and perhaps even more load may require more clicks. It will never be perfect for all circumstances and road conditions.

 

Yup did the sag and found it to be what they say it should be on the rear but not quite enough on the front, unfortunately unable to adjust the front with only one wrench but it is the rear that is really the biggest problem. Rear is set at 16 clicks.It rises a bit when my wife gets off but not much compared to the stock shock. I was told those are the stock spring that Ohlins put on for the 1200RT.

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CoarsegoldKid

I assume the retailer asked for your weight. Some shock shops also want that of the bike without the luggage. Knowing the weight is better done on a large scale like at the recycle center or post office dock. I got my Ohlins from Kyle and they hit the nail on the head. They weren't concerned about extra load besides me. Preload would take care of that. Sorry to hear that things aren't working out. I'm of no help at this point.

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Yup did the sag and found it to be what they say it should be on the rear but not quite enough on the front, unfortunately unable to adjust the front with only one wrench but it is the rear that is really the biggest problem. Rear is set at 16 clicks.It rises a bit when my wife gets off but not much compared to the stock shock. I was told those are the stock spring that Ohlins put on for the 1200RT.

 

You should be able to adjust the front spring preload with just the C-spanner that comes with the shock. I was able to add a couple of turns, 720 degrees, of preload to mine. The left side plastic has to come off, and it's a tight fit for the wrench, but it can be done.

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Yup did the sag and found it to be what they say it should be on the rear but not quite enough on the front, unfortunately unable to adjust the front with only one wrench but it is the rear that is really the biggest problem. Rear is set at 16 clicks.It rises a bit when my wife gets off but not much compared to the stock shock. I was told those are the stock spring that Ohlins put on for the 1200RT.

 

You should be able to adjust the front spring preload with just the C-spanner that comes with the shock. I was able to add a couple of turns, 720 degrees, of preload to mine. The left side plastic has to come off, and it's a tight fit for the wrench, but it can be done.

 

I was able to adjust the front Ohlins on my 06 RT with the supplied spanner after unloading the front end, nothing removed. It needed much more preload on the front than what I received from the factory order.

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  • 2 years later...

reviving old post, as its full of good stuff, with a question:

 

I just changed springs (ohlins), and while i'm comfortable doing the usual sag and rebound adjustments, I find myself wondering how do i set the initial position for the springs, since this is the first time i've changed springs only? In other words, where to start with the C-spanner adjusted rings.

 

I've always received struts that were close to being right when i got them out of the box or from the factory, and I just had to adjust them a bit, but I don't know if i'm starting in the right ballpark at this point. I noted that I could turn my rear ring by hand, and I don't recall being able to do that on previous shocks, so i believe i may be way off to begin with? And on my older (03) RT I have to remove the rear strut to adjust that ring/setting, so hoping to get some guidance to avoid too many on/offs.

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At bare minimum, I would turn the ring by hand until you cannot turn it any more.

 

Once the shock is on the bike, check the sag and go from there.

 

David

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  • 4 weeks later...

Wow, great advice in here.

 

Sorry to hear that things aren't working out. I'm of no help at this point.

 

I agree. I'm not sure but it seems unlikely they shipped a spring that is way off but it could certainly happen. I would carefully review all the preload instructions and go down that road again prior to getting frustrated and breaking anything. Where are you located? Are there any suspension guru's near you who can check out your set up? Most will make a visual assessment and bounce up and down on your bike for little or no charge.

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When I last had my Öhlins serviced, for the rear shock I increased the preload (required only a single turn of the ring) to the point where I got my desired static sag without side cases and with the hydraulic adjuster at zero turns, leaving the full range of adjustment with the hydraulic adjuster to account for luggage, passenger, etc.

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