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Signal switch issues


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I am having signal switch issues. I tried a search but was unable to narrow down the issue.

I am trying to determine if problem is the cancel switch. Connections been checked and lubed with dielectric grease.



-bike with ignition switch on not running everything works perfect, left\right indicator and cancel switch

-riding on the road turn indicators will work or have no continuous flashing after the first flash

-went it stops flashing if you hold down that turn switch it will continue to flash

-thumbing the cancel switch extra does not seem to make any difference


Anyway, I suspect road vibrations are causing poor switching conditions in the cancel switch since it happens on both the right and left signal switch.


Is this a known problem and any tips before I dismantle the cancel switch or check for other issues?


Thanks for any help.





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Morning 97oilhead


Lots of possibilities on this one.


First off, with a little more info from you we can help you more than just guessing.


See if your T/signals act the same sitting still but with the engine running, if they operate OK with the engine running but sitting still it might be a system voltage issue.


If engine running helps then try with engine OFF but a battery charger hooked to the battery. (does this make a difference?)


We also need to know IF your bike has the stock turn signal relay or does it have the aftermarket Kisan signal minder in it? (knowing this would really help us help you)


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Thanks DR,


Info requested;


-Battery is in good condition registers 12.85 sitting in bike ignition off.

-Engine running battery registers 14.05 volts

-turn signals operate and cancel correctly engine running 2000 rpm and voltage remains constant at 14.05 while signals operate.

- signals operate fine with engine off and ignition on

-stock signal relay and no signal minder

- it should not be a heat issue as if has been occurring during highway driving in 25 degree weather

-sometimes they work fine

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Evening 97oilhead




Well at least we now know it probably isn’t a system voltage issue.


Unfortunately it doesn’t help us all that much either.


If I was working on this problem my next move would be to install a “known good” flasher relay then ride the bike. (this would quickly eliminate a flasher relay issue due to vibration or other dynamics)


My guess is you don’t have this option?


So next move is to get the signals flashing normally with the engine off then turn the handlebars quickly left and right a few times. The BMW’s have a history of the wire harness fatiguing in the steering neck area. You might have a wire crossing or opening in that area while riding.


Next is to grab the wire harness in the steering neck area and shake it vigorously. Then do the same with the wire harnesses that enter the switch pods.


If still no joy use a SMALL rubber or rawhide hammer and gently rap all the switches especially in the cancel switch area.


Then do the same by lightly rapping the relay itself.



You might also remove the flasher relay and look closely at the relay terminals and relay socket terminals. Sometime they turn black from oxidation or continued poor contact.



If nothing found then you will either need to borrow a known good flasher relay to try or worst case use a voltmeter and ohmmeter and keep checking every wire from switch to flasher relay for opens, or shorts, or power/ground issues, while riding ( that isn’t going to be fun).


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I was riding for a while today and now suspect the left and right switch. I had spayed liberal WD40 into the switches, 85% of the time the right turn switch worked while driving. The left was working about 25% of the time, and quite often the left would work after hitting the switch a second or third time. I think I will probably dismantle the left switch for a possible hair trigger connection.

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Instead of WD40, go to Radio Shack and get some relay contact cleaner spray or ask them for something that will de-oxidize the switch contacts.





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