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Fuel guage and oil temp guage not working correctly


dJames

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Weird thing happened, after filling up at a gas station I watched my gas bars go from full and slowly drop a bar every second or so until no bars were left on the screen. Strange I thought since the gas tank was full. Then a few miles later my oil guage started fluttering. It would read 5 bars at a stop and then drop down to 1 or 2 when I started moving. The oil level is correct, I just cannot figure out what happened to both instruments at the same time. Any suggestions?

Dennis

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They share a common connector on the rear of the RID (Rider information display) I would check that that was still in place.

 

Andy

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What Andy said, plus I would check the fuses....I broken filament, rather than a blown fuse, could act like this. I would figure out which fuse it is, and just change it out. Good luck.

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The gas gauge does not work at all and dropped incrementally after the last fiil up, but the oil temp indicator does work, though it reads incorrectly, such as 1 bar when I am stopped then jumps up to 4 or 5 when I take off then drops down again to one or two when I am at a constant speed and flutters up and down between 1 and 2 bars. Do you think it is a fuse since it is working but not reading correctly?

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Since they are both effected, and they share a fuse, it is just a simple first place to look. I would also suspect a bad ground, for the same reasons. Something is interfering with the normal flow of electrons, for the most likely simple explanation. Not cutting them off completely, but either blocking their entry or their exit. Good luck.

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Afternoon Dennis

 

That is a strange one indeed.

 

Especially since they technically didn’t quit at the exact same time. The gas gauge went to 0 then a short time later the oil gauge started to act up. You would think a gauge cluster power or ground issue would cause both to quit at the exact same moment.

 

You would also think with a cluster power problem they should have gone completely out not just read incorrectly.

Same with a dash cluster ground problem, both acting up at once with the gas gauge reading past full not empty, or maybe flickering on and off.

 

Could be a loose or corroded connector as Andy mentioned.

 

With the gas gauge slowly dropping from full to empty sort of points to the gauge electronics themselves still working as the dampening delay was operational.

 

Possibly a poor connection at a grounding point on the engine or chassis causing some change in grounding potential.

 

Or maybe a problem with the wire harness in the steering neck area causing a resistance change or cross talk between circuits.

 

What did the clock do during the gauge issue? That might point us to something.

 

Otherwise try wiggling the wire harness near the steering neck with the key on or better yet engine running to see if the gas gauge moves or the oil gauge starts reading differently.

 

If this was an old car or truck I would say look at the dash voltage reducer but I’m not sure the BMW electronic dash even uses any type of voltage reducer or current stabilizer if so it would probably be built into the electronics.

 

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The clock on the instrument panel works fine. I will try wiggling the wires and check the fuses this weekend and cross my fingers. It is not a huge deal as I can use the mileage on the odo to figure out when I need to fill up and just assume the bike will not over heat since the bike has a cooling fan being the police version. But the instruments (gas and oil temp.) are nice to have.

Thank you for the reply.

Dennis

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  • 2 years later...

Just wondering if the issue the OP had was ever found. I have the exact same issue, just checked the connector behind the dash and it looked fine. Hit it with contact cleaner and dialectric grease but no joy.

My oil temp and gas level are fine then they will just start changing and I will get for example two bars, a space, one bar, etc. I am starting to think the RID is bad but have not seen that as an issue here before. My gear position indicator seems OK, the clock works but there appears to be ghosting with the numbers when it acts up.

Any ideas?

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Afternoon va951

 

You are changing this thread from the OP's problem to your problem (called hijacking)

 

Please start your own thread on your problem then we will respond to your query.

 

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I will take the risk of incurring the wrath of DR to close out this problem for me. I figured it out, it was the connector after all. As I stated above I disconnected and cleaned the connector and it did not get better. It seemed to get worse after that and that made me a little suspicious so I took the connector apart again and made multiple connect/disconnects to see if I could improve the connection and make a difference. That did it, several hundred miles later and no more problem.

Hopefully this will help someone in the future.

DR, fire away.

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Hi va951

It is not about incurring the wrath of DR, It is about making these posts easier for everyone to follow.

It is good you have solved your problem, but for the sake of ease of future problem searches, please start new topics, as we try to resolve individuals problems not a whole host of tangential ones.

It may well help others in the future, but it would be even quicker for them via individual searches.

Thanks

Andy

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I will take the risk of incurring the wrath of DR to close out this problem for me. I figured it out, it was the connector after all. As I stated above I disconnected and cleaned the connector and it did not get better. It seemed to get worse after that and that made me a little suspicious so I took the connector apart again and made multiple connect/disconnects to see if I could improve the connection and make a difference. That did it, several hundred miles later and no more problem.

Hopefully this will help someone in the future.

DR, fire away.

 

The fuel gauge on my bike does not go all the way to full, unless the connectors are cleaned and dressed with dielectric grease yearly. I am going to try some fancy electronic contact cleaner and preservative next time, to see if the connection will stay clean longer.

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Hi 4wheeldog.

Even when they are really clean, they rarely read full.

The only way mine does is when I fill the bike absolutely full. That is, fuel ALL the way up the filler neck (which is drilled on the side to prevent an air pocket. Only then does it really read full.

Of course the draw back with doing that, is if you fill the bike that full and it warms up (which of course it will) then you lose fuel out of your overflow.

However, if you fuel up and ride away immediately, it can mean you get a significant increase in range. For me when touring gives me more lee way and peace of mind.

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Andy, thanks, I hear you. I was trying to do exactly that, make it easier to follow, by resurrecting the old thread to provide resolution. I know from my searches soemtimes i get multiple hits on an issue with no resolution. I end up wading through them and they just die.

But, again, I hear you and I will just start a new thread in the future.

BTW, my tank when full reads one bar down also. TADT.

Thanks

Bob

 

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Afternoon___

 

On the fuel gauges that are reading incorrectly-- there was an old BMW service bulletin on inaccurate RID gauge readings that mentioned running a redundant ground wire from the battery (-) post directly to the fuel pump pass through plate therefore providing a lower resistance grounding.

 

If the fuel gauge reads different with the fuel pump running then there is definitely a grounding resistance issue. Even if it doesn't read differently with the pump running there could still be a grounding resistance issue.

 

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Hi 4wheeldog.

Even when they are really clean, they rarely read full.

The only way mine does is when I fill the bike absolutely full. That is, fuel ALL the way up the filler neck (which is drilled on the side to prevent an air pocket. Only then does it really read full.

Of course the draw back with doing that, is if you fill the bike that full and it warms up (which of course it will) then you lose fuel out of your overflow.

However, if you fuel up and ride away immediately, it can mean you get a significant increase in range. For me when touring gives me more lee way and peace of mind.

 

My inlet is modified the same as yours. I primarily made the mod to facilitate faster filling, not overfilling. If I fill it to the bottom of the standpipe, and the connectors are freshly cleaned, it registers "Full".....10 bars. First bar does not go out for 20-25 miles. If it has been awhile since the cleaning, that level gets me 8 bars. If I fill it halfway up the standpipe, when it has been a while since cleaning, it will show 9 bars, for maybe 8-10 miles.

 

I never fill above the bottom of the standpipe unless I will be riding at least 25 miles, better 50 miles, immediately. It is about 10 miles from the nearest gas station I actually use to my house.......I made the mistake exactly once of overfilling, thinking that the ride home would be sufficient. Overflowing gas in the garage is not something I am willing to repeat.

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