Centerstands interchange on 1100 and 1150 RTs?

[John_Bennett]

Does anyone know if an R1150RT center stand will fit on an R1100RT?

 

I need to replace mine. Used 1150 center stands seem to be more plentiful.

 

Thanks!

[Michaelr11]

Does anyone know if an R1150RT center stand will fit on an R1100RT?

According to online fiche, the 1150RT centerstand only fits the R1150RT model (and the R850RT Euro model).

http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/DiagramsByPartNumber.aspx?parts=46522335890

 

[dirtrider]

Afternoon John

 

The stands are definitely different as Michael pointed out. Some of it is due to the spring placement and foot pedal shape.

 

So to be absolutely safe buy the correct one. On the other hand if you can get one in your hands you might be able to see if 1150 could be made to work with some modifications.

 

 

[dan cata]

Also replace the 6 o-rings on the shaft and inspect the link between the pipe where you put your foot on and the centerstand for rust. They have a habbit of breaking around that zone, resulting in a tip over once it brakes...

 

Dan.

[AndyS]

Here's what I did, if it is of any use to anyone else:

 

Andy

[Selden]

Does anyone know if an R1150RT center stand will fit on an R1100RT?

 

I need to replace mine. Used 1150 center stands seem to be more plentiful.

Out of curiosity (as an owner of an R1100RT), why do you need to replace yours?

[John_Bennett]

Thanks guys!

 

 

...why do you need to replace yours?

My foot pedal broke off. I had a guy weld it back on, but he put the foot pedal at the wrong angle, such that it hits the catalytic converter.

 

I put the stand in a vise and tried to bend the foot pedal to the correct angle, but it broke off again.

 

I may try a different welding shop, but I doubt re-welding it will work.

[ElevenFifty]

I had mine shortened when I got my Hyperpro shocks. The weld was done by a quality guy who builds race cars. He inserted solid stock inside the tubing ...

[Rockrib]

Thread Hijack! Same thing just happened to me. My question is: What's the easiest way to remove the center stand "feet" without tearing apart my bike? I'd rather not disconnect the battery. I need to be able to ride in the morning. Or is disconnecting the battery and welding 'in situ' my best option? So, Brain-trust, What's next?

[dirtrider]

Evening Rockrib

 

 

Personally at the very least I would tack weld the foot back in place with the stand on the bike, that way you know for certain it will be positioned correctly. If you have ability and access you could complete a full weld repair with the stand still on the bike.

 

You don’t have to disconnect the battery to weld with the stand on the bike as welding won’t hurt the battery and just disconnecting the battery won’t protect the bikes electronics. The VERY IMPORTANT thing is ground the welder DIRECTLY to the stand and make sure the ground is clean & to shiny metal.

 

If you want to remove the center stand you will have to hold the bike up either under the engine, or with straps, or by the wheels as the side stand will have to come loose also.

 

Remove the stand spring, remove L&R pivot bushings (might need some heat).

 

[Danny caddyshack Noonan]

I put the stand in a vise and tried to bend the foot pedal to the correct angle, but it broke off again.

 

I may try a different welding shop, but I doubt re-welding it will work.

 

Drill holes in the tubing on each side. Insert a short piece of bar and weld the surfaces back together. Then weld through the holes to fix the rod to the foot lever and the center structure.

 

My broken one is still sitting in a corner waiting for me to have that done.

[Rockrib]

"as welding won’t hurt the battery... "

 

Really? Is this true? No offense intended, Dirtrider, but running 50k odd volts through the bike won't mess with my new glass mat battery? I'm only asking because I don't know.

 

Re: grounding the weld, I can put the neg about an inch away from the repair. Does this protect the rest of the bike?

 

Also, I've got the springs reinstalled, so I can ride to work without a spark-show. This is now my weekend project. Any help y'all can provide is greatly appreciated.

 

 

 

[dirtrider]

Morning Rockrib

 

It won’t be 50,000 volts probably closer to 50 volts but you still won’t hurt the battery IF you don’t force the welding current through the battery. If you TIG weld you could have some higher voltage higher frequency on the weld start but even that won’t hurt anything if it finds a close solid grounding. Remember your ignition coil puts out 15-30K on every spark and that goes through the engine before returning to the ign coil.

 

The secret to welding on a vehicle with electronics and easily damaged electrical components is to ground the welding process as close to the weld repair as you can or at least to the same component with a SOLID clean ground.

 

The welding current and voltage will seek the path of least resistance so if you have a good clean ground close to the weld repair it will be a simple (DIRECT) current path.

 

Where people have problems welding on vehicles is welding on some remote thing (like your center stand) but grounding the welding process to the something like the handlebars. In that case the welding current/voltage will have to travel through the high resistance stand bushings to the frame then through the steering neck bearings and through the painted bar to upper triple tree area. There would be a great risk on the welding that the welding return current/voltage would find a better ground path through some of the wires running to the handlebars and that could take it through a relay or electronic component.

 

On your battery concern--- If you don’t ground your welding process in a way that would force the current/voltage back through a battery cable or power/ground wire than how can the weld current/voltage find the battery?

 

If you want to be PERFECTLY safe either completely remove the center stand or if welding on the bike remove ALL electronic devices like the fueling computer, & dash RID, & ABS controller, & T/S relay, etc.

 

I weld on some pretty high tec and very expensive vehicles and never disconnect anything electrical or electronic wise but sure do pay attention to proper weld area prep and proper weld grounding.