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Paul Mihalka

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We have a serious crabgrass infection in our grass. Many products out there, they are all the best if you read their literature. We have about 1 acre of grass (I wouldn't call it lawn). Any opinion/experience/knowledge out there?

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Hi Paul,

Must be getting warm down there if you are thinking of lawn care.

I've had excellent results using pre-emergent control. Application is at about the time dandelions are in the puff-ball stage. That assures its in place prior to the warm weather germination of the crabgrass.

When I moved here we had a yard full and after the first years use it was practically nonexistent.

The Scott's product is called Halts. I try to find it NOT mixed with fertilizer.

No need to treat shady areas.


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Danny caddyshack Noonan

Hmmm fought that once. This is what I found out...I hear there is no crabcrass at the Trinity Site in New Mexico. Maybe a tiny bit of sage.

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Dave McReynolds

I had clumps of what I thought was crabgrass in the lawn: obnoxious roundish circles of broadleaved grass. I am not exactly meticulous about my lawn, so for some years, I just ingored these clumps and mowed over them. But last year I noticed that the circles seemed to be taking over more and more of the lawn, and so was motivated to do something about them. So I bought a bottle of stuff that was supposed to kill crabgrass and leave your lawn alone. I diluted and sprayed as directed, and a month later, noticed no change in anything. So as an experiment, I dumped a bunch of the stuff full-strength on one of the circles. A month later, the experimental circle was as healthy as could be. The circles probably weren't crab grass, I guess.

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If you are in MD, and can see the stuff now, it probably isn't crabgrass. Crabgrass is an annual - it dies off over the winter, then comes back from seed in Spring. Crabgrass preventers like Halts work by keeping the seed from sprouting.


At least in my area, many people mistake tall fescue for crabgrass. It grows in clumps, and the clumps get bigger and spread. It's useful in pastures, but unsightly in lawns. Because it's a fescue variety, and most lawns in the northern areas have fescue in them, you can't selectively kill it. Most people here use Roundup on the spots to kill it, then plant grass seed to cover the spots.

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I have a biological diversification philosophy. If it's green, it's OK with me; I cut it all to the same height.


I'm with you Selden, but my neighbor is getting perturbed with me, so I might have to work on diminishing the number of species in my yard. (I won't call it a lawn either.)

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The problem I have with my "mixed greens" yard is the different growing rates. The hay grows faster than the fescue and I can be out there mowing once a week in high season for the interspursed 10 percenter tall weeds and just fanning the 90 per cent grass.






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I can't see it now, but was fed up with it in the fall. Thanks for the tips.


Paul, the only way to deal with it in a lawn of your size is to use a pre-emergent herbicide, at least if it's widespread. Once you get it under control, you can pop out individual clumps. Something like Scott's four-step program will do the trick.

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Scott's Halts work well for me. Just make sure you get it down early enough, otherwise, once the crabgrass germinates it's too late. If there is crabgrass anywhere adjacent to your yard you will have to do this every year as the seed will blow into your yard and germinate again in the late spring. Good luck, I hate crab grass.

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How early enough is soon enough? I was told to lay down the halts when those yellow bushes bloom.(what are they called? the name escapes me!) Perhaps that is my problem with that crap on the lawn every year! (Besides the stray dog of course!)

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Where you are you're thinking of forsythia. That's about right but even with a pre-emergence you may need a broadleaf weed control later if you,re well behind on stuff.

Lazy way is the guys wuth the spray trucks for that. They'll do as few or as many runs as you want in our area. Thry can be cost effective if you've got a lot of green stuff.

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I'd try to get it down in April - maybe even before the Forsythia bloom. It prevents germination of the crabgrass seed that is in your lawn from last year's crabgrass. Crabgrass germinates when the soil temperature reaches 60-70 degrees but it can germinate sooner. The trick is to put it down to control the bulk of the germination. It will remain effective for around 3 months.


This web site Click Here has some good information.

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