DallasR1100RT Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 Is there anything I need to be aware of when removing the front wheel to replace a tire? Thanks!! Mark Link to comment
NonComp Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 Don't squeeze the brake lever once the wheel and brake rotors are removed from the bike. Some people place shim material between the brake pads for this reason. You can accidently displace a caliper piston and introduce air into the brake system. Link to comment
AndyS Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 Removing front wheel • Remove front mudguard. • Remove brake calipers. Caution: Do not scratch rim; mask off with tape if necessary. Do not tilt the brake caliper: risk of damage to brake pads. Note: Do not apply handbrake lever with brake calipers removed/front wheel removed. • Remove Lefthand axle retaining screw. • Loosen the lower fork axle pinch clamping screws (1 at bottom of each fork leg). • Remove quick-release axle. • Remove spacer bushing from RHS of wheel. and speedometer drive from LHS of wheel. • Remove front wheel. Installing front wheel • Install front wheel. • Install spacer bushing to RHS and speedometer drive to LHS of wheel. Caution: Anti-twist device on speedometer drive is located in front of stop on slider tube. • Apply a light coating of Molykote paste to the quick-release axle/install it. • Tighten axle retaining screw (LHS of axle). • Press forks down firmly several times. • Tighten fork axle clamping screws (1 at bottom of each fork leg). • Install brake calipers. • Install front mudguard. • [ABS] Check sensor gap and adjust if necessary. ABS sensor gap..0.45 mm to 0.55 mm (0.0177inch to 0.02165 inch) Tightening torque: Screw connection, quick-release axle.......... 30 Nm Lower Fork Leg Axle Clamping screws,.......... 22 Nm Brake caliper to slider tube ................. 40 Nm Link to comment
Joe Frickin' Friday Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 Do not tilt the brake caliper: risk of damage to brake pads. :confused: This is the only way I'm aware of (i.e. tilting the caliper while on the rotor) to cause the pistons to retract into the calipers so that the calipers can be wiggled off of the rotors. Never had a problem with pad damage, though I've always been careful to use very light force. Link to comment
notacop Posted February 22, 2011 Share Posted February 22, 2011 Some people should never be left alone with a box of tools. Take it to the dealer. It will be less expensive should you make the big boo-boo. Don't tilt the caliper, where did you come from? Link to comment
Fraidycat Posted February 22, 2011 Share Posted February 22, 2011 I've always had to gently tilt the caliper to get enough slack to get it off the rotor. I am wondering how it could be done otherwise? Link to comment
NonComp Posted February 22, 2011 Share Posted February 22, 2011 Some people should never be left alone with a box of tools. Take it to the dealer. It will be less expensive should you make the big boo-boo.Front wheel removal procedures are written in the Service and Technical Booklet (page 22) that accompanied your RT when it was new. BMW decided that this is one of the basic procedures that should be documented for owners so that they could do this themselves. It's not brain surgery. And it shouldn't be portrayed as such. Kudos to the OP for wanting to do this himself. Link to comment
AndyS Posted February 22, 2011 Share Posted February 22, 2011 Do not tilt the brake caliper: risk of damage to brake pads. Don't shoot the messenger....... This was DIRECTLY out of the R1100RT manual. I too rock the calliper to ease the pistons gently back into their respective housings. And Notacop, I'm not understanding your posting? It looks like a small rant? is it meant to be? Andy Link to comment
Linz Posted February 22, 2011 Share Posted February 22, 2011 Page 25 of the Australian version of the Service and Technical Booklet for my R1150RT says: "Push the brake pads back a little by lightly rocking the brake calipers". My factory trained service technician uses the same method and he taught me. In my limited experience, I have no idea how you'd remove the calipers without giving yourself some play in the pads as it would be a vertical lift and that would hit the rim. I've gently rocked mine for years to remove without issue. The key is a light hand and careful progress in everything we do to vital parts on our bikes otherwise not only are we not saving money (if we break things), we could place our lives in jeopardy. Linz Link to comment
jjg3 Posted February 22, 2011 Share Posted February 22, 2011 I've always had to gently tilt the caliper to get enough slack to get it off the rotor. I am wondering how it could be done otherwise? Same here, how else would you do it? It took several tries and wondering how the caliper would magically come of after working it, to then discover it was the compression of the pads by tilting back and forth to create just enough gap to remove the caliper. From what I've seen, those parts are pretty robust and, though not using my favorite tool (hammer), can be handled 'not like eggs.' Link to comment
NonComp Posted February 22, 2011 Share Posted February 22, 2011 Ditto my BMW R1100R Service and Technical Booklet (circa 1996): Page 23 - front wheel removal: "Tilt the brake caliper to force the brake pads in". Page 29 - rear wheel removal: "Force the brake pads in by tilting the caliper." Link to comment
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