Turn signal to running light conversion 2010 R1200RT

[blainem]

Does anyone know of a kit for the 2010 R1200RT to convert the turn signals to a combination running light and turn signal?

[John Ranalletta]

Check out the Kisan signal minder. This is not a recommendation, but had one on a early 2000 GS and it worked well.

 

https://www.kisantech.com/index.php?cat_id=4

 

[Froy]

Tap power from aux outlet wiring on the left side panel. Tap trigger signal to a relay from the headlight wiring, and buy a set of these: Magic blinkers

You can also leave out the above mentioned relay and just draw power from the aux outlet on the left panel, but this will make your running lights stay on for approx 20 seconds after you turn the ignition off.

[Joe Frickin' Friday]

You can also leave out the above mentioned relay and just draw power from the aux outlet on the left panel, but this will make your running lights stay on for approx 20 seconds after you turn the ignition off.

 

That's sort of what I did. Aux outlet (rear outlet, actually) powers relay that supplies Eastern Beaver PC-8; the PC-8 powers various accessories, including one line that powers running lights in all the turn signal pods. Bulb sockets just need to be replaced with a socket from an auto parts store that accepts a #1157 dual-filament bulb.

[blainem]

Thanks! Some interesting ideas to check out.

[racer7]

1) The Kisan part IS NOT compatible with your bike.

 

2)The Magic Blinker carries the risk of overheating and melting the lamp housing that was never designed for constant on of a 21W filament. Be wary unless you know someone has done this successfully on your model or at least another one with the same lamp housing. Froy- how long have these been in your RT and have you seen any issues?

 

3) The dual filament conversion seems the best idea (the second filament being a lower 5W) but fitting a socket will be an issue. Auto parts stuff will take some work unless you can find stuff different than I have locally.

The closest socket appears to be the dual filament ones from the LT, about $18 each at a dealer but you still need to fit a little and wire them. I'd proably just pull power from the parking lights nearby for the extra filament.

 

4) There are many types of LED short amber strips that could be added up front either inside or outiside the lamp housing. Heat is not an issue with these.

 

5) Also check out Photon Blasters. Had mine for a couple years- work well.

[Joe Frickin' Friday]

3) The dual filament conversion seems the best idea (the second filament being a lower 5W) but fitting a socket will be an issue. Auto parts stuff will take some work unless you can find stuff different than I have locally.

 

The sockets I bought were made of metal. The spring tabs used for retention are bendable, so you can tweak them a bit to make them easier to slip into the existing holes in the lens/reflector housings. Only real work for me was running some wire from the PC-8 to the four corners of the bike to power the running-light filaments.

[blainem]

I was also considering a small clear / white LED strip for the front, preferably inside the clear housing. I'm thinking that the amber bulbs would overpower them when the turn signals are on.

[Froy]

2)The Magic Blinker carries the risk of overheating and melting the lamp housing that was never designed for constant on of a 21W filament. Be wary unless you know someone has done this successfully on your model or at least another one with the same lamp housing. Froy- how long have these been in your RT and have you seen any issues?

 

I was concerned about the heat issue as well, but it turned out well. I have used this setup since last spring. The nice thing with the magic blinkers is that they give the complete on/off effect when you activate the signal light. Dual filament setups will not if I understand this right.

[Dan5620]

Never hurts to drill a small hole(s) in bottom of lens to let excess heat escape.

[BrianM]

Probably something like this

 

[racer7]

Only problem with that socket is it compromises the water tight sealing made possible by the stock socket. I'd pick an LT socket first- I think with a tiny bit of dremel work it will seal correctly in the lamp but haven't proven it by execution, yet. Its a pretty well protected location on an RT but I'm not a fan of compromising factory light sealing- in my humid climate plus rain riding it can lead to problems later.

 

Froy, a few more questions about magic blinkers

1) Do you have the newer, FET version or the older one?

2) Do your 4 way flashers function properly?

3) Are bulb warnings triggered correctly meaning that the "dead bulb" indicator on the dash still works if a bulb dies? Also no false indication of a dead bulb?

 

Re drilling a lamp housing to vent heat- that's a good idea. I would prefer to do it to the inside of the fairing even with a small U shaped vent hose if needed, like it has been done for halogen headlights on various cars (where I have run 130W bulbs in housings designed for 55W with no problems.) Don't want to drill on a weather side- where water goes from rain and air pressure could be a bit unpredictable so probably better if drilled in a shielded spot.

[alexp]

Blainen,

email Fernando @ nando.mailbox@yahoo.com

He did what you are looking for.

Later,

Alex

[Froy]

Froy, a few more questions about magic blinkers

1) Do you have the newer, FET version or the older one?

2) Do your 4 way flashers function properly?

3) Are bulb warnings triggered correctly meaning that the "dead bulb" indicator on the dash still works if a bulb dies? Also no false indication of a dead bulb?

 

1) I guess I have the older magic blinkers. I bought mine last winter.

2)I have not experienced any dead bulbs on my signal lights yet,(even if I used the front as constant on running lights the whole last riding season)

There is no false indication in my setup either.

 

I will try to improve my running lights this year though, including a voltage reducer and a Wolstentech timer relay.

I keep you posted, but I will have to wait for spring. My beloved is under the tarp at the moment.

[racer7]

Froy,

Sounds like you live in one of those places that get buried in snow. We can ride all year here in NC but you've likely got better summer conditions than our humid stuff.

 

I think I understand your intention with a voltage reduction BUT what would you want to do with a relay timer?

 

Thanks for the info on your experience, including the bulb life. Strictly for appearance purposes I've been using the Osram coated bulbs that reflect as metallic ad only appear amber when lit. They're a little pricey so I don't want to be buying a lot of them. Nice to know that they'll have OK lifespan in your setup.

[Froy]

I think I understand your intention with a voltage reduction BUT what would you want to do with a relay timer?

 

....Strictly for appearance purposes I've been using the Osram coated bulbs that reflect as metallic ad only appear amber when lit. They're a little pricey so I don't want to be buying a lot of them. Nice to know that they'll have OK lifespan in your setup.

I have the amber lenses on my Sand Beige '08RT so stock bulbs are fine on mine.

I bought, or should I say; had made to order, a special time- delay relay from a helful guy last winter, but never got around trying it out in my bike, I installed the magic blinkers instead.

The magic blinkers are nice, but they keep the running lights function at a full 21 watts. My idea is to use the voltage reducer to keep the running lights at a lower intensity, and that the time- delay relay cuts the power going to the voltage reducer for a set period of time (say 1,5 seconds) whenever I activate the signal lights.

This way I will get reduced intensity running lights as well as the original full on/off function with the signal lights.

This is the theory though, I hope it will work out in real life.

I noticed some time ago that the maker of these specially made relays recently updated his website with a proper schematic view of my initial hand drawed scetch. Have a look at his site. He explains the setup pretty good as well. Wolstentech.com

I must admit this is all a bit complicated to me, but I've allready managed to install a ordinary relay supplying power to the magic blinkers, so now it's just a matter of taking the plastic off again and go slow with the wiring to the new time-delay relay.

Looking forward to it! It is still 6 F at my place though..

[Mighty Manfred]

I did this conversion on my '87 R80RT, using a Moto Guzzi site as reference. A wee bit of dremel work to allow the new socket to fit was the least problem. Running an additional wire for the low power running filament was a PIA. But the finished job looks stock until the key is turned on.

 

I am very glad I did this. Cost me about $12 in material, including the 1187 bulbs.

[racer7]

Froy,

THANKS A BUNCH for the WolstenTech schematic! Looks very interesting and may well turn out to be the ideal way to do this! It seems to address ALL of the potential issues. And its as cheap as the Magic Blinkers though maybe a little more wiring work.

 

Can you tell me what you have chosen as a voltage reducer and have you tested it so you know the voltage is right?

 

I'm pretty good at wiring if you need someone to help work you through it. One very easy shortcut is simply to gang a couple of the connections at various spade connectors, for example - 2 or more wires running into one connector.

 

Here in NC is going to touch 65 today (again). Yesterday afternoon I ran 130 miles of nearby twisties just to keep in shape- less than 2 hours of fun on our country roads. Don't envy you than 6F stuff at all. Used to live up north and never noticed it when I lived there, though. Plenty of outdoor winter sports to do. I'm probably the only guy in NC who owns both cross country skis and and ice fishing box/drill (the latter is great for planting stuff). Used to fish the Niagara River gorge below the fall for the big rainbows and lakers that hang out there all winter (great trout fishing Nov-Feb, salmon runs in Oct)- a good place to not slip on the ice!

[Froy]

Can you tell me what you have chosen as a voltage reducer and have you tested it so you know the voltage is right?

 

I bought a special made voltage reducer that BigAdv made. I'm not shure if sells them anylonger.

He made a simple waterproof unit esoecially designed for signal lights into running lights on the BMW R. Marker lights by BigAdv

I tested the unit last night, and found the voltage to be 5,1v with only one signal light bulb attached.

 

Ice is melting again today! 43F! Hope it lasts!

 

 

[racer7]

Froy,

Thanks for the info. I sent him a pm but given that the thread is over 3 yrs old I doubt he's still got any.

Its hard to believe someone doesn't make something like that but a quick look through DigiKey last night for a pwm voltage reducer that carried enough current came up empty. Need to look again though.

Thanks for the voltage check. That 5.1 V is pretty similar to what I expected based on other pwm bits and could go a little higher if needed. I wonder if the Runtz 12V to 6V reducer used for automotive stuff will work with that TDR.

[Froy]

Froy,

Thanks for the voltage check. That 5.1 V is pretty similar to what I expected based on other pwm bits and could go a little higher if needed. I wonder if the Runtz 12V to 6V reducer used for automotive stuff will work with that TDR.

 

Racer7,

Those Runtz reducers might be perfect! I cannot se why they should not work OK. WolstenTech claims a 8 volt limit for his TDR so when Runtz garantees a 6v max output on their reducer it sounds just right. I remember reading that BigAdv had to calibrate the voltage on his device to a compromise between a not too bright running light versus the signal light, but if this WolstenTech setup works as planned we can benefit from a slightly brighter running light since we will get the 100% on/off function on the signal lights.

Remember also that I was only able to check one bulb last when I tested the voltage output(my RT's battery on my living room table, and a spare signal light bulb... luckily my girlfriend was as work ) So in real life on the bike there will be a voltage drop when both the front bulbs are connected. I measured this back when I initially had the BigAdv reducer installed and if I recall this right I found the voltage to be 4,5v or 4,6v.

[racer7]

Froy,

Only 2 possible negatives cross my mind re using the Runtz with the TDR.

The first is that the Runtz is rated 4A, 25W each- that's a little tight.

Second is whether a bulb warning will get triggered that would require switching off the bike for reset. Don't see an obvious reason why there should be one given the way one can power it though.

What do you think?

Guess its going to take getting some parts in and actually doing it to find out?

 

[racer7]

Froy,

One more issue after looking at the TDR circuit sketch.

 

I do not know how the Runtz is made, short of buying one to dissect. It may be necessary to install a diode between the Runtz and the bulb that has a high enough rating to pass bulb current but that won't allow 12V to come at the Runtz "backwards" from the other side of the circuit. No big deal - should be able to find one cheap at any Radio Shack.

[Froy]

Froy,

Only 2 possible negatives cross my mind re using the Runtz with the TDR.

The first is that the Runtz is rated 4A, 25W each- that's a little tight.

Second is whether a bulb warning will get triggered that would require switching off the bike for reset. Don't see an obvious reason why there should be one given the way one can power it though.

What do you think?

Guess its going to take getting some parts in and actually doing it to find out?

Racer7,

This is all a tad complicated to discuss in writing, but the 4A 25W rating must be plenty. Remember, you feed the Runtz with your bikes 12V but you will not put the full 21w x2 load on the Runtz. The load will only be 0,9A (5.1W) on each bulb given the 6v ouput from the Runtz to the two signal light bulbs.

I did not trigger any failure warning on the bike. Not when using the BigAdv reduser, or the Magic Blinkers. It's nice to use a separate relay to feed the Runtz though. I used a micro relay that tapped power from the aux wiring going to the left side panel outlet, and tapped the trigger into the main low beam wiring under the dash(usingPosi-Tap ). I also use the brown ground wire going into the headlight cluster as my ground for all my extras in the front of the bike. Apparently any fault codes is triggered on the + side, not the - ground side.

I agree when it comes to actually seeing what happends with this new TDR setup. Tapping power from the aux wiring ensures that I am on a fused curcuit though.

[Froy]

Froy,

One more issue after looking at the TDR circuit sketch.

 

I do not know how the Runtz is made, short of buying one to dissect. It may be necessary to install a diode between the Runtz and the bulb that has a high enough rating to pass bulb current but that won't allow 12V to come at the Runtz "backwards" from the other side of the circuit. No big deal - should be able to find one cheap at any Radio Shack.

 

That's a good idea! I had a look inside the BigAdv reduser unit once but cannot recall seing any diodes, there might have been one, but it makes sence to use diodes as you describe.

[racer7]

Froy,

Got some parts coming to give this a try. Should be about 10 days before I have any results though. Will let you know.

Thanks for the diode comments.

[racer7]

Froy,

I tested the conversion of turn signals to running lights using the WolstenTech TDR-PO and a voltage drop resistor commonly used when converting 6V cars to 12V (to allow existing car heater fan motor to be used). The resistor is a Dale 50W 1 ohm power resistor and can bought from Speedway or various electronics places. No diodes needed.

 

Bottom line is it works. The result is the same as having a pair of dual filament bulbs up front. The filaments come on at 6V and go to 12V on/off when signals or flashers are used.

 

After testing I decided not to permanently install this on my bike. Standing out front and looking, I believe that the factory has it right and that two lit bulbs, one flashing 12V on the other on at 6V, is not as attention grabbing as a single flashing 12V bulb. So I removed it and will make no other attempts at this conversion. I believe a triangle with lights down low (Motolights, Photon Blasters, an LED set or whatever; my bike has Photon Blasters AND a set of TrailTech 30W HIDs under the oil cooler) is better and sufficient and that if you really want more attention then that, go to a pulse modulator on the hi beam (I don't like them personally)

 

 

[Froy]

After testing I decided not to permanently install this on my bike. Standing out front and looking, I believe that the factory has it right and that two lit bulbs, one flashing 12V on the other on at 6V, is not as attention grabbing as a single flashing 12V bulb. .. I believe a triangle with lights down low ..

racer7

Great that you tested this setup out and confirmed that it actually works! I ordered a Runtz reducer and have been thinking that I should have ordered two, and also get another Wolstentech relay as well. This way I could make two independent curcuits to the signal lights. Achieving a slightly more "legal" look since only the signal light that is activated will go on/off, and not the other side go from 6v to off as well.

You're right when you say that the complete on/off is more visible, but I've been thinking the same as you when it comes to the triangel of light, so I have a small powerful LED sitting on the front fender and by turning the signal lights into running lights I ended up with a triangel of light without adding to much aux lighting to the RT's perfection.

 

Today I finally unveiled my bike and had my first ride this winter/spring. Great!

 

Anyway, if you want to sell me your Wolstentechn relay let me know. PayPal would solve the transaction needed.

Postage to Norway is needed though...